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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:23 PM
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Have you ever seen an engine that used STP right from the get-go, before the rings were broken in? I HAVE! And I guarantee you- the rings will not break in- EVER!!! The STP I'm talking about is the uber thick stuff that was advertised as being so slippery that you can't hold a screwdriver by the tip when coated w/it.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:25 PM
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Actually, Molyslip WILL put a nice grey film over almost everything it comes in contact with, it's what it's designed to do which is why I said paint it on parts you don't want scuffed up.
It WILL come out of suspension when left sitting, you ever tried adding a bottle to sump without giving it a good shaking first?
I don't use STP, never have, never will
Did anyone say it will clog filter?
Got a little bit over defensive there
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:33 PM
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Only an idiot would use STP or motor honey, etc. in a new engine anyway. It is not needed or wanted, it has no place in an engine w/good bearing clearances, and is dubious for use in ANY engine regardless of the clearances or ring condition. If more viscosity is needed, buy the right oil from the beginning instead of adding that crap. If the engine is burning oil- fix it. Using super thick motor oil is a waste.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:45 PM
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I have never used STP and never will. The only thing I have ever dumped in motor oil is GM EOS, Crane Super Lube and Moly Slip E Oil Supplement. The only stuff I ever use on new flat tappet cams is Crane or Isky Moly Disulfide Paste (Isky Rev lube)



Have a friend who tried that Red oily cam lube. Had a few cam failures (raceing stuff). Got him switched back to Moly paste cam lube, no more premature cam lobe failures.

I have no use for any of the others.

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Old 09-30-2013, 08:56 PM
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My Dad use swear the sun wouldn't rise if he didn't add a can of STP @ every oil change.LOL.After all,Richard Petty said to do it.It had to be good for it.When we tore down the 390 out of his 70 LTD,it wuz 1 of the cruddiest nastiest engines,i've ever seen.The Quaker State Non-Detergent prolly helped out with that also.He thought the valve cover gaskets were shot becuz they were leaking,but,the drainback holes were completely stopped up.In another 20 yrs,everything we do now will be wrong & condemned by the by then wiser motorheads.There were also alotta new engines screwed up by Slik 50.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:56 PM
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Seems we all agree after all
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 09:06 PM
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Seems we all agree after all
And life is good.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
My Dad use swear the sun wouldn't rise if he didn't add a can of STP @ every oil change.LOL.After all,Richard Petty said to do it.It had to be good for it.When we tore down the 390 out of his 70 LTD,it wuz 1 of the cruddiest nastiest engines,i've ever seen.The Quaker State Non-Detergent prolly helped out with that also.He thought the valve cover gaskets were shot becuz they were leaking,but,the drainback holes were completely stopped up.In another 20 yrs,everything we do now will be wrong & condemned by the by then wiser motorheads.There were also alotta new engines screwed up by Slik 50.
I got a old newspaper ad from 1900 + something that says doctors recommend CravenA cigarettes for their "soothing effect on the throat - good for singers and public speakers" ...LOL! ..so there ya go!

Anyways, I just pulled the plugs and post some pics. For sum reason I can't seem to attach more than one pic per post, oh well, get my post count up! LOL

They look a bit chitty. Most have a good side and a bad side, crud-wise.

Valve seals look to be in one piece as fitted. Damn hard to see those things with my eyes through two layers of springs, even with a torch and a dentist's mirror. I'm using the Fel-Pro SS 72526 and 527 seal sets on the exhaust and intake valves respectively , in conjunction with the little rubber o-rings on both IIRC, certainly on the intakes.

What's y'all's forensic opinion of the plugs? They're 4000 miles old.

Guess a leakdown is next on the list. Not keen on pulling the inlet at this stage, - but whatever it takes? Got some Ajax in the laundry - lol!



Duke
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:37 PM
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Each plug has a goo and a bad side.
This is the good side.



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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 10:39 PM
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This is the bad side



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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 10:55 PM
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6 and 8 are clearly using oil. They all have ash deposits. OIL
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:23 PM
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Yep, got ash build up from oil burning
#6 is pretty bad, don't normally see that much build up below 80~100,000 miles (but then it's all of them)
OK, looked at all the pics, you have a problem
If you had motor idling after a run (at night) find a dark area then use a powerful flashlight from behind car, oil burning is obvious from the blue 'haze'
Did you oil rings and bores?
It's 'common practice' but it doesn't mean it's the best way to build an engine
I 'paint' a line of 50/50 molyslip/engine oil around bottom 1" of cylinder and fit pistons 'dry'
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:32 AM
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You can mark the plug's position w/a sharpie after re-tightening them in the holes they came from, then remove them to see if the bad sides are aiming at the intake guides. This is often the case when you have a good side/bad side scenario. This is similar to indexing plugs except in this case you are looking for the position of the bad sides as opposed to aligning the electrodes.

Take a close look to see if the seals have been hit by the retainers.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:38 AM
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Plugs were pulled after idle ing through my hometown, not after a WOT pass , if that matters.

Should I do a leak down test next / first ? THEN pull the inlet for gasket inspection?

I'm guessing that I shouldn't keep running the engine as it is.

Is a leak down test of any consequence ? Will that determine the cause, beit rings or manifold leak? Or should I just pull the bloody thing down?



Duke
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
You can mark the plug's position w/a sharpie after re-tightening them in the holes they came from, then remove them to see if the bad sides are aiming at the intake guides. This is often the case when you have a good side/bad side scenario. This is similar to indexing plugs except in this case you are looking for the position of the bad sides as opposed to aligning the electrodes.

Take a close look to see if the seals have been hit by the retainers.
If I do that, and the bad side is aim towards the intake, does that exercise/result indicate a intake leak?

I'll take a closer look at the seals.

Thankyou



Duke
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