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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2004, 03:13 PM
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What about the USC brand Icing putty stuff? Anyone use that? I think that's also a 2 part putty.

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Old 07-19-2004, 03:45 PM
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I've never had any trouble using the bondo brand.

Troy

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Old 07-19-2004, 03:50 PM
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Instead of asking your jobber for "glazing", ask him for "icing". A lot of glazings are the single part that is like a super thick primer (Spot-n-Glaze is one) and will shrink. Icing is a two part and is more like a thinned down body filler. Mixes just like body filler, is a little runnier, dries in about 10 minutes ready to sand and doesn't bleed through like the older lacquer type glazings.

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Old 07-19-2004, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kevin45
Instead of asking your jobber for "glazing", ask him for "icing". A lot of glazings are the single part that is like a super thick primer (Spot-n-Glaze is one) and will shrink. Icing is a two part and is more like a thinned down body filler. Mixes just like body filler, is a little runnier, dries in about 10 minutes ready to sand and doesn't bleed through like the older lacquer type glazings.

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The icing is a great product and they also make a Half-time that the thickness is between the icing and body filler.
All the two parts by the filler companies are pretty good, some thinner than others.
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Old 07-19-2004, 04:49 PM
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So there's no 2 part putty out there that's easily spread? Its all kind of runny like the filler?
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Old 07-19-2004, 05:37 PM
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Sure there is, USC makes about 4 kinds, Fiberglass evercoat
Makes about 5, ask your jobber about the brand he carries and he can advise. Over the last 3 years the newer ones have gone to "Self-leveling" side of the thickness part.

Body fillers are made to fill more so not familiar with them being runny?
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by TonyO
So there's no 2 part putty out there that's easily spread? Its all kind of runny like the filler?
I personally use Evercoats "Metal Glaze". By the way "Metal Glaze" and "Glaze coat" are exactly the same, only different color.

“Basics of bondo types”

"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.

Examples are:
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.


"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:
Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17

I personally recommend Evercoat products.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:05 PM
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Do they make a glaze for plastic panels (mc body work) or do you guys lean towards melting in plastic rods into the repair?
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Old 07-19-2004, 10:38 PM
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They make a 2 part filler for repairing small places on plastic. If it is damaged to much for it , then it is usually deformed out of shape and needs replaced.

Troy

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Old 07-20-2004, 09:11 AM
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One of the products Troy is talking about is "Poly-flex" from Evercoat. It is only going to fill low spots and "road rash" (I assume your talking about repairing plastic motorcycle fairing ) and it will work very well for that. As far as repairing crackes or building up totally burned off areas (the friction of the pavment is awesome at 60 MPH) there are MANY, MANY other products that are in a two componant cartridge you dispense from a special gun. 3M, FUSOR, SEM, are just a few brands. They do some pretty amazing things, give them a look. They are usually called "Plastics Structual Repair" or something like that. They have many products for metal and the like as well. Cars are being "glued" together these days you know.
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:21 PM
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Thnx guys!

Martin: Yes its just minor road rash on mc plastics that I just acquired over the weekend!
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Old 07-23-2004, 02:22 AM
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What I usually do is put on my filler and if it needs pinholes filled after it is sanded and straight apply another skim coat pressing it tight into the pinholes, but normally don't have that much for pinholes. You can use a finishing or glazing putty to fill them, but to me it is just an added expense. I will use them if I have a spot on sanded paint or primer because they say they can be applied over it, while the body fillers say ground metal, although you can also apply them over epoxy primer. If you are getting bubbles and pinholes, some of it could also be from how you mix your bodyfiller. Kinda hard to explain, but if you are stirring it you could be getting air in the mixture, I mix mine by kinda folding over and squeezing flat to mix if that makes any sense. Any two part filler is going to be better then the 1 part spot putties which I learned was basically like thick lacquer primer in a tube like martin said and they can shrink. If you are using a urethane 2k filler primer and you have a few pinholes, on your first coats of primer for blocking, take your finger and rub the primer into the pinholes, works for me, since it will block out and then apply more primer after blocking.
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