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Old 04-18-2007, 11:40 AM
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"Glue?" Instead of weld patch panels?

I'm very interested in this process. I've posted a few pictures and picked up little tidbits of info; but I haven't really found someone who really has done this. So here's what I've heard so far; but I have alot of questions.
In the first pic; here's my project. The rust started in the crease of the inner wheelwell where it meets the fender opening. I picked up left and right Goodmark patch panels on EBay. In the second photo; I have clamped the panel to the body for the purpose of marking the outline. The third photo is photoshopped for the purpose of visual effect.
I'll be replacing the wheel houses with aftermarket Jegs, or Chassisworks tubs; so the old stock ones will be removed.
I'll be using a flange tool for this process so that I can overlap the sheet metal. So now my questions begin:
1.) I'm wondering how far inside the outline do I mark for cutting? (photo 3)
2.) Do you flange the body, and overlap the patch; or flange the patch and slip it behind the body for bonding ? (when we're to that point of prep)
3.) What is the best adhesive to use?
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Old 04-18-2007, 12:36 PM
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I've just got to ask - why use this process...people have been welding on sheet metal for over 100 years...?

From what I understand bonding of this type is meant for late model sheet metal/alloys which are much thinner (supposedly stronger) than what it appears you are working on.

I'd be concerned also with different expansion and contraction rates depending on the patch and body with this bonding process and also its application around rusted areas of sheet metal as opposed to a accident repair on a newer vehicle...

Please don't take my question personally...Just curious about your decision process is all....
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Old 04-18-2007, 01:42 PM
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The metal that it is made out of has nothing to do with it. The modern panel adhesive is an amazing product and a huge step AHEAD in the repair process. It has MANY benifits over welding in many cases.

BMW has a recommendation to "glue" a front frame rail in their 5 series. We are talking GLUEING a frame rail together with not a single bolt or weld!

That being said, in this case, bonding that outer line will produce a "ghost line" sure as poop stinks. There are some recommendations to thin the metal at the end and what not to reduce this "ghost line" where you have two different metals meeting with the adhesive in between. But on that line going that long up and down the quarter, I couldn't emagine a ghost line not being there once done and down the road with some temp changes producing some different expansion and contraction between the different materials.

Bonding the bottom and at the wheel well lip, PERFECT,that is where the bonding shines big time. But on that lap seam on the side of the quarter, not a chance in my opinion.

Brian
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Old 04-18-2007, 01:48 PM
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By the way, you look like you are about to make a very common mistake. That being thinking you have to use the ENTIRE patch panel. ALL you need is what is rusted on the car, you don't need to replace GOOD metal.

So mark where this rust in on the quarter and post that, we can come up with a good place to cut. You trim the patch panel down to size, then mark the quarter where to cut. Now, you DO NOT do that until you have striped the paint off at the rust and surrounding area. That rust, it is coming from the inside out, there is likely some very thin metal around the rust that you see HIDING in the back. So your patch will need to be bigger than the rust you see, but NOT as much as you have in your photos. At least that is what I see and my experiance. Until you point out exactly where the rust is this is of course just something to think about being I don't know for a fact where the rust is.

Brian
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