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Old 12-14-2003, 09:53 PM
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GM 10 Bolt Diff w/ Auburn Posi

This my first day on the group and my first post. Please bare with me.

I have a '79 Camaro 10-bolt 8.5 diff with an Eaton Posi. I'm installing an after-market Cad Seville rear disk brake kit and have to remove the axles to get off the backing plates of the existing drum brakes and also have to turn down the axle flanges to fit into the new disks.

My problem is that I'm having trouble getting the C-clips out from inside the posi. I think I've complicated matters when I drove the locking piece of bar stock forward and made the whole carrier immovable but I can see the C-clips.

Any suggestions. HELP

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Old 12-14-2003, 11:15 PM
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The bar (cross-pin) must come out before the C-clips can be removed. The axles must be shoved toward the center before the clips can come out, & the bar is blocking the axles. Might try GENTLY rocking the ring gear back & forth & maybe the bar will move a little at a time. Try jiggling the pinion gear, too. If you rock too hard & bend the bar, you're in trouble. A strong magnet (pick-up tool, etc.) may help, but sometimes gravity will move it if you can get it at a steep enough angle. Maybe some needle-nose pliers will get in there & encourage it a little. If your hands aren't too big, you might can get a finger or two around the top side & try to move it like that. The magnetic pickup tool is also handy for removing the C-clips, or retrieving the one that drops off into the puddle of gear lube in the case.
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Old 12-14-2003, 11:31 PM
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I did get the pin to move partially into place but the small ends inboard of the c-clips won't go outboard far enough to allow the pin to move fully into place. Did something happen to the placement of the bearing/seal on the axle? How do I get it to move further outboard. Let me take a guess; use a bigger hammer (Hi Hi Hi - HAM speak for laughing). Oh bye the way the posi is an Auburn, I got it wrong in the first post.

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2003, 07:21 AM
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-.. . -- .- - - -.-.-.

k6qk, I know you can interpret the subject line above, there are a few of us on this site that I know of I just didn't use my sign as my username, I have been inactive with that hobby for a couple of years now but when the house is remodeled I will resume, and hopefully upgrade to extra myself, welcome to Hotrodders.com.


If you can get someone to help out for a few minutes, have them gently turn one of the axleshafts while you try to work the shaft to where you can get it out of the carrier.
After the pin is removed do not turn either axleshaft and remove the C-clips holding the axleshafts in the carrier.
Once the clips are out the axleshafts are free to come out.
As long as the axles are out I hope you thought forward to replace the bearings and seals just to make sure you don't have to do it again later.

Last edited by M&M CUSTOM; 12-15-2003 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 12-15-2003, 04:23 PM
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MRG

.-. .-.

I've come to pretty much the same conclusion as you suggest.
I'll put outward tension on the axle at the flange and get the c-clip to move back into the recesses and then put the axle under tension to keep them from moving toward the center. Then, I can rock the 3rd member until the pin moves in sufficiently to clear the ends of the axle. Then I'll be able to fully rotate the 3rd member to pull the pin and then the c-clips.

Are there any holes in my logic?

10M test was disappointing this past W/E
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Old 12-15-2003, 05:36 PM
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HMH

I am assuming the driveshaft is disconnected. If not just place the transmission in neutral.
It needs to be either- allowing you to turn the ring gear and positioning the center pin to where you can remove it fully or just enough to allow the axleshafts in enough to remove the C-clips.
Do you have any means of sending a pic of what problem you are experiencing, if so, send to my e-mail link in my profile.
If you do and I feel it can help someone else I can post it in this thread.

I have quite a bit of remodeling to do for my new shack in the basement, but I will be just feet away from the base of my tower.
I need to get back on the air. I miss it. .-.-.-
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Old 12-15-2003, 10:15 PM
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MRG

I was doing a bunch of honey do's today so didn't get a chance to get under the truck. Forgot to mention the '79 Camaro diff is in a '57 Chevy long-bed P/U. It's a little tougher to get to than usual since I have a 24 gal gas tank mounted aft of the diff. It's not tough or impossible but LESS than most comfortable but still accessable.

I DO have the drive shaft disconnected. Doing so makes my life easier. I will try and move the axles outboard and get the clips in place and then wedge the flange with a piece of wooden wedge to keep one in place while I do the same thing to the other side. Then I can work plug back into place by rotating the ring gear back and forth to force it back in and make it possible to fully rotate the ring gear and carrier.

I don't think pictures would help. Seen one diff ya seen'm all.
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Old 12-15-2003, 11:18 PM
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You might also try a lil brass hammer & tap on the carrier to get a little vibration in it. Sometimes that will help gravity move the bar downwards a bit.
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:02 PM
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GM 10-Bolt w/ Auburn Posi

I have successfully recovered from my problem of not being able to remove the cross bar. I got the c-clips back into position in the recesses in the side gears making the axles move further outward and allowing the cross bar to slide back into place.

I've rotated the 3rd member and can now clearly see the c-clips but there is still a remaining problem. The posi has two side plates, one against each side gear, held in place by five small heavy springs. The side plates restrict access to the c-clips completely. What I need now is some direction on how to remove/install the side plates to get to the clips. If I can do that I'm home free.
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:09 AM
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!

The side plates can be pried out with a pry bar/ screw driver. Watch those springs- they like to fly out and roll into the worst places

But how do you put these plates back in? Very carefully!

Actually to put them in, I carefully lined up all 5 springs on the plates, then put plates in a vise and compress. Use a large c-clamp and some scrap metal stock to keep the plates compressed. Install plates into diff by tapping with a small mallet while plates are held compressed by c-clamp.

It actually takes less time than it took me to type this...
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:45 PM
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Well Guys

I'm here to tell you that the web came through again. Not this website, though it has been very helpful. I got the info I needed to contact Auburn Gear via the telephone and also printed out some very useful installation manuals. I contact the tech support guy and in less than 25 words I had my answer re: removing the c-clips to remove the axles.

VERY simple, rotate the axle in very small increments until the c-clip lines up with the side plate of the posi spring setup. You can hear the clink. It took about 3 minutes to remove two axles. Just reverse for installation.

Thanks to all for their advice and support.
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