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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2006, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DV8
when setting up pinion depth use your old bearing, take some sandpaper or die grinder and remove several thousands from the center of the bearing so it slips on and off the pinion fairly easy, that way as you determine your final shim thickness your not using a good bearing on and off. when your final thickness has been determined use your new bearing. I just had my 10 bolt updated with 3.73 gears and watched a friend do it, now i think i could do it myself. It's not that difficult if you know how to use a depth guage, a micrometer and an a**load of patience.
good idea about the old bearing. I'll do that. I will definitely try this whole process myself before having someone else do it. I even shelled out $20 to buy the Richmond Gear Video on how to do it. I figure it's worth the money if it teaches me how to do it. I've never used a depth gauge though. I've used calipers, micrometers, dial indicators, etc but not a depth gauge. Is it the same as those other gauges?

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Old 08-28-2006, 11:34 AM
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same

Correct me if I'm wrong a depth guage is what you are probabally refering to as a dial indicator. You will need one on them, and a magnetic base / holder to hold the guage while measuring backlash.
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Old 08-28-2006, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DV8
Correct me if I'm wrong a depth guage is what you are probabally refering to as a dial indicator. You will need one on them, and a magnetic base / holder to hold the guage while measuring backlash.
first pic is a depth gauge, second is a dial indicator...a dial indicator can be used as a depth gauge in many aplications... this specific aplication would warrant the use of a dial indicator.
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Old 08-28-2006, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by njbloodline666
first pic is a depth gauge, second is a dial indicator...a dial indicator can be used as a depth gauge in many aplications... this specific aplication would warrant the use of a dial indicator.
thanks bud.
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Old 08-28-2006, 02:44 PM
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no problem, oh yeah and proform also makes this what they call a "pinion depth gauge" you dont need it, its just a dial indicator with fancy attachments.
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Old 08-28-2006, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
Where the axle tubes meet the "pumpkin" weld the joints completely. They are held in place by heavy duty spot welds right now. Where the spring perches meet the axle tube, make sure they are totally welded.
Exactly. I think they missed on the spot welds quite a bit at the factory. My '69 and my '72 both had tubes that were just pressed in, and both of which spun in the housing, one with a stock 350 and one with a 230.

Another good idea is to use U-bolts to attach the lower spring mount plates. The stock T-bolts are a factory cost-saving measure, and if the perch comes unwelded from the axle tube, that corner of the car goes straight to the ground. Heavy traffic, sparks, etc. Welding the perches is good, but U-bolts take the strain off the perch welds, and will support the car if the welds give up. GM started using U-bolts again in the later Novas, one on each side. I used 2, just for good measure.
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jimfulco
Exactly. I think they missed on the spot welds quite a bit at the factory. My '69 and my '72 both had tubes that were just pressed in, and both of which spun in the housing, one with a stock 350 and one with a 230.

Another good idea is to use U-bolts to attach the lower spring mount plates. The stock T-bolts are a factory cost-saving measure, and if the perch comes unwelded from the axle tube, that corner of the car goes straight to the ground. Heavy traffic, sparks, etc. Welding the perches is good, but U-bolts take the strain off the perch welds, and will support the car if the welds give up. GM started using U-bolts again in the later Novas, one on each side. I used 2, just for good measure.
ok - I'll take a look at it and bring it to my welder. One more question though, if I wanted to run a wider tire (which I do) don't I need to relocate the lower shock mounts (and upper mounts too) to allow more clearance for a wider tire. I have to figure that out first before doing this added welding for the spring perches.
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