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Old 05-24-2007, 11:40 PM
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GM Alt Singe wire to three wire

I have been running a single wire Delco that has the two baronet plugs labeled R1 & F2, which weren't used. Does this mean it is a three wire that has been converted, internally? I am rewiring the car & want to go to a three wire system, as I've been told the regulator works better. If it is a converted three wire how would one go about converting it back?

When it comes to wiring the three wire, is it R1 to a 12 volt source on the buss feeding the fuse block,the brown wire label Alt. excitor to F2 & the 8 Ga. red wire to the Bat. terminal?

If anyone can explain to me the function of the two wires that go to the R1 & F1 spades, I would really like to understand there purpose.

Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

Doug

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Old 05-25-2007, 02:25 AM
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Doc here,

Exactly What Delco alternator are you running? What car is this on?

The F1 Should be, the brown wire to the idiot lamp/load resistance.

The R1 Should be the remote Sense, for turning the regulator on and off.It should go to the power wire on the horn relay. (It may be jumped to the big red 8 ga, but it won't regulate as well..)

The 8 gauge wire goes to a proper fuse link or maxi fuse, and to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid.

Doc
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:40 AM
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1 or 3 wire alt.

Doc, on a veh. with an alt. and a amp. meter, How would you hook up a light also (for the wife which never looks at gages) to a red light (and what size or volt-amp.) light should I use. would the wire from the alt. go to the light and the light be grounded ? thanks
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:06 AM
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Doc here,

Here is the diagram for that:



You will note the light has no ground, but is in series with two 12 volt sources..The Ignition and the Alternator Field..(brown wire at the alternator)

In this manner, the light lights, (or not) predicated upon which side is more negative, I.E., if both sides are 12 volts..(alternator producing power) the light remains off..if the alternator side is more negative, (not turning or producing power) the lamp lights because it back-feeds to ground through the alternator.

Follow the diagram for a GM, and you should be fine..be sure the ignition side is a switched , fused source..(about 5 amps).

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Old 05-25-2007, 06:00 PM
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GM Alt. Single wire tothree wire

Sorry Doc this is in my 28 modela sedan delivery which doesn't have an idiot light. I have no idea what the model number is as there isn't a number on it, the only mark is a K. This car was built in 1986 if that is any help. Can these Alt. work as a three wire or single wire with out any modifications?

I am also having trouble finding fuse link wire, all I've been able to find is Maxy fuses or what they are calling a fuse link which looks like a copper strip with a hole at each end with a plastic fuse molded in the middle. Is the wire fuse links not available any more?
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:29 PM
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Several auto parts places (e.g., Advance Auto) sell standard 14 gauge replacement GM fusible links in the same area the sell fuses. That size link works for a 10 gauge charge wire and 63 amp alternator.

For higher output alternators you need a 12 gauge fusible link. I bought mine from NAPA as a small roll of fusible link wire. I had to buy about 6 feet just to get the 3-4" that I needed.

Bruce
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:17 AM
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Doc here,

Fuse links are available on the auto zombie web site "Electrical" section generically.

If your Alternator is a GM type, just follow the diagram for the lamp (Brown wire to lamp, other side to switched fused Ign.) To install a lamp.

IF it is a GM 3 wire, you can jump the small red to the big red, and run the big red to the fuse link..it won't regulate as well though. The brown wire need not be run..

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Old 05-26-2007, 12:33 PM
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gm-alt-singe-wire-three-wire

Thanks guy very much appreciated

Doug
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:59 PM
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gm-alt-singe-wire-three-wire

Doc this Alt. was run as a single wire, however there was no jumper on the external terminals, which I assume means they jumpered it internally, is that possible? I maybe should take this one to a re-builder (I polished its case) or just go for a new chrome one. Being Scottish (Cheap) I hate to spend the $ as it seemed to work fine as a single wire.

Thanks again guys
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:09 PM
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Our shop used to wire all alternators with factory three wire style, but with the advances in one wire alternators, we have gone to all one wire set ups. They are just cleaner, and more simple. The new aftermarket alternator guys, use a lot lower RPM internal exciter. We are up to 140amp units now, and 6 gauge main power wire. We have amp hungry hot rods.
Dave Tallant KC Mo
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetrodderdoug
Doc this Alt. was run as a single wire, however there was no jumper on the external terminals, which I assume means they jumpered it internally, is that possible? I maybe should take this one to a re-builder (I polished its case) or just go for a new chrome one. Being Scottish (Cheap) I hate to spend the $ as it seemed to work fine as a single wire.

Thanks again guys

Doc here,

You didn't say it was malfunctioning..

If that's the case, since you can't ID it, I'd toss it for a new unit OR upgrade to a GM CS 130/140 Series..If you need some current output..If moderate, a GM SI series will do nicely.

A Rebuilder is going to cost just as much as the upgrade, but on the upgrade you can buy rebuild kits over the counter for $15.00 and do it yourself.

Some Alternators are set to run both ways, 1 or 3 wire, internally jumpered, externally jumpered, or a jumper plug..Since yours seems to be an orphan, it's hard to tell.

If it's bad, go for an upgrade to something you at least know what you have..solves this kind of headache in the future.

Doc
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