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Old 11-05-2006, 06:03 PM
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GM Axle Studs Question

Help

I'm doing my first rearend job. It's a GM 10-bolt 8.5". I am getting new Moser 30-spline axles. I noticed when I pulled the old axles out that the wheel studs are pressed in. When I get the new axles, I will need studs on them as it appears the Moser axles come without studs. What do I do? Do I punch out the old studs and reinstall them in the new axles or do I buy new studs and have them pressed in. Is this something I do myself or does a shop have to use some special press and heat treating to do it?

thanks.

Lee

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Last edited by leejoy; 11-05-2006 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:19 PM
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You can do it yourself....Pull them in with some washers and a lug nut.

For the price of new studs, I would put in new ones. You may want to go 1/2" instead of the stock 7/16"
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:46 PM
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You can specify which studs Moser will provide the properly sized hole for in your new axles when you order.

Poncho is right, if you are going racing you should get the bigger studs. IIRC NHRA requires that the studs stick out at least 1 1/2 the diameter of the stud past the lugnut.

There are many of the more popular stud types listed on the moser website along with their sizes. They are able to supply press in as well as threaded studs. The price is comparable to any auto parts store and you have the piece of mind knowing that they are from the same supplier and will, (should), fit.

Make sure that they are compatable with your current brake drums or rotors when you order them or be prepared to do some fitting.

You can buy direct from moser for the same price as you can get them from summit or jegs.

Later, mikey
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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 11-05-2006 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
You can specify which studs Moser will provide the properly sized hole for in your new axles when you order.

Poncho is right, if you are going racing you should get the bigger studs. IIRC NHRA requires that the studs stick out at least 1 1/2 the diameter of the stud past the lugnut.

There are many of the more popular stud types listed on the moser website along with their sizes. They are able to supply press in as well as threaded studs. The price is comparable to any auto parts store and you have the piece of mind knowing that they are from the same supplier and will, (should), fit.

Make sure that they are compatable with your current brake drums or rotors when you order them or be prepared to do some fitting.

You can buy direct from moser for the same price as you can get them from summit or jegs.

Later, mikey
thanks for the help guys. I know I can buy direct from moser but I'm buying a bunch of other "non-moser" stuff as well. I will call moser before placing the order and make sure I get their studs to fit their axles. I agree on upgrading from 7/16" to 1/2" studs. The brake drums won't fit then. I will have to drill them out or get new ones.
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:05 PM
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Anyone??

I was following this thread because I want to swap out my studs as well. Is drilling out the holes in the axle something one can do, or should a machine shop do it?? Safety First My axles are from a 79 TransAM/ Disk Brakes.
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DV8
I was following this thread because I want to swap out my studs as well. Is drilling out the holes in the axle something one can do, or should a machine shop do it?? Safety First My axles are from a 79 TransAM/ Disk Brakes.
I'm using a 10 bolt from a 4th gen fbody and the studs are metric, I considered drilling them up for a larger size stud, but after looking at the edge distance that would be left from the side of the hole to the edge of the axle I decided against it. Just something to consider IMO
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DV8
I was following this thread because I want to swap out my studs as well. Is drilling out the holes in the axle something one can do, or should a machine shop do it?? Safety First My axles are from a 79 TransAM/ Disk Brakes.
At the very least you should have a drill press with a stout table and a good way to properly locate the hole before you drill. Sometimes you need some weird drill bits to size the hole properly to fit some of the oddball knurl sizes. I remember doing it one time and having to tack weld the stud in because my drill bit was just a tad too big.

Later, mikey
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Old 12-01-2006, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leejoy
Help

I'm doing my first rearend job. It's a GM 10-bolt 8.5". I am getting new Moser 30-spline axles. I noticed when I pulled the old axles out that the wheel studs are pressed in. When I get the new axles, I will need studs on them as it appears the Moser axles come without studs. What do I do? Do I punch out the old studs and reinstall them in the new axles or do I buy new studs and have them pressed in. Is this something I do myself or does a shop have to use some special press and heat treating to do it?

thanks.

Lee

If you choose to knock out the old studs and re-use them, it is a good practice to apply a bit of red Loctite to the knurled portion of the stud before pressing them into the new axle. The knurl, or splines, have been slightly crushed when originally pressed in, so it is just a good CYA procedure to secure them with some locking agent. Contrary to popular belief, you will be able to get them out again without heating the snot out of them, it will just take a heavier hammer.
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Old 12-02-2006, 03:47 AM
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Pulling the studs in with a nut and washers is not the right way to do it. I have done it before in a pinch (autozone parking lot) but it is never the recommended method. Pulling the stud into the axle will take more torque then the stud was meant to have on it. I don't have a press yet so I always just pound them in from the back side with a brass drift and a 2# sledge. Put some tape over the bearing surface so you don't knick it on accident

The studs aren't that expensive...you should just buy new ones. Call Moser to be sure on the proper stud application for your axles. Some nice ARP ones wouldn't be a bad idea either
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Old 12-02-2006, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triaged
Pulling the stud into the axle will take more torque then the stud was meant to have on it.
I've used a lug nut turned so the flat side faces the axle flange, and a spacer / flat washer / ect., so the nut doesn't bottom out on the threads before pulling the stud completely into it's seated position. I've never run into a situation that required more torque than the nut and stud would hold without being overstressed ect.
Of course that's just my experience.
It would be a good idea to use some anti-seize lubricant on the threads although I recommend using this even when only replacing lug nuts after dis-mounting the wheel for a tire repair ect. JMHO

I do agree with what's already been said about replacing the studs with new parts if possible.
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Old 12-02-2006, 08:13 PM
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I guess it depends on how old it is and what parts are new. With a used axle and used studs it won't take much torque at all to pull them in. With used axles and new studs it will sometimes take way more then the torque spec and sometimes less. If the axles and studs are both new (or even just the axles) I can't see how it would be possible to pull in the studs without exceeding the torque value (and if you can do it you have some out of spec parts)...

...but when you have the axles out you might as well do it right and press them in.

I always use dry lug nuts and studs...then again I live in SoCal and stuff just doesn't rust out here like it does in the midwest. FWIW the torque spec should be changed based on the lube used because all the specs out there are for dry.
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