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Old 05-19-2011, 01:13 PM
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GM torque converter - bolts n' installation

Hi y'all !

Need some help with 4 things for installing the torque converter on my 2000 Yukon (4l60e).

1st- the bolts - OEM Hex socket and longer, new bolts are shorter. which one should i used !



2nd- locktite- should it be used, the new bolts are prelocktited, the OEM were not locktited. Also, are pre locktited bolts just as good as freshly applied locktite ?, should i add extra locktite if using the new bolts?.

3rd Specs- What are the correct torque specs i've seen anything from 35 - 80ft lbs for converter to flexplate torque settings?.

4th tips - Is there any special thing to do or lookout for when installing the torque converter.

Thanks ahead of time to any dood who can help out here !!

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Old 05-19-2011, 01:31 PM
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The bolts must not be too long so as to bottom against the converter after they go through the tab. The thread locker on the bolts should be sufficient . Torque on the 3/8" bolts is 35 ft/lb . The flex plate to crank bolts are higher torque. The torque converter MUST be installed in the trans first before bolting to engine. Spin the torque as you push it into the trans. It should "clunk" twice as it seats back in the trans . You must be able to turn the torque converter freely after installing the bellhousing bolts and before bolting the torque to the flexplate. If not, the torque is not properly seated in the trans. Also pour about two quarts of trans fluid in the torque before installing on trans. This should cover it . Allan
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old yukon
Hi y'all !

Need some help with 4 things for installing the torque converter on my 2000 Yukon (4l60e).

1st- the bolts - OEM Hex socket and longer, new bolts are shorter. which one should i used !



2nd- locktite- should it be used, the new bolts are prelocktited, the OEM were not locktited. Also, are pre locktited bolts just as good as freshly applied locktite ?, should i add extra locktite if using the new bolts?.

3rd Specs- What are the correct torque specs i've seen anything from 35 - 80ft lbs for converter to flexplate torque settings?.

4th tips - Is there any special thing to do or lookout for when installing the torque converter.

Thanks ahead of time to any dood who can help out here !!
use the new bolts as they are with the locktite that came on them, that is more than sufficient.
the flexplate has a slotted hole for line up purposes so you dont have to guess on if the next bolt will start. as mentioned, the converter must spin freely after the trans is bolted up to the back of the block. there should be roughly 3/16" of clearance from the flexplate to the converter pads.
once you know the converter spins free, you can take a flat head screwdriver to push the converter up against the flexplate and tighten the bolts.
make sure the back of the crank and the pilot of the converter get a scotchbrite cleaning as that will help keep the converter flat and prevent "side loading" on the pump bushing from the converter hub.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:15 PM
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Thanks guys for the quick reply.

That sound clear now.

While waiting i also found this which is basically what you guys just told me, but it might be a good reference check sheet for anyone else to print out and use when throwing a new torque converter on.

Thanks again.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TorqConvTransInstallInst.pdf (364.4 KB, 486 views)
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:22 AM
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here's a clip that demonstrates the intallation out of the car.
Those dowl extension bolts are a great idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIP...yer_detailpage
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:47 AM
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Allan

you said 35 ft lbs for the torque converter to flexplate bolts. several GM references say 45-47 ft lbs for the 4L60e, why such a difference which one is the correct one ??
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old yukon
Allan

you said 35 ft lbs for the torque converter to flexplate bolts. several GM references say 45-47 ft lbs for the 4L60e, why such a difference which one is the correct one ??
I'd say the 45-47 is correct. I was quoting torque for 3/8" bolt, (which is used on the turbo 350) which is smaller than the metric bolt that the 4L60E uses.
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:21 PM
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"1st- the bolts - OEM Hex socket and longer, new bolts are shorter. "

If the new bolt is long enough to go through the flex plate, and have enough exposed threads to add up to roughly a nuts worth, then you can use the new ones. you do not want the bolt to bottom out the bolt into the converter though. It'll dong up the clutch surface...

"2nd- locktite- should it be used, the new bolts are prelocktited, the OEM were not locktited. Also, are pre locktited bolts just as good as freshly applied locktite ?, should i add extra locktite if using the new bolts?."

The pre-applied loctite is fine. I am not sure about mixing the pre-applied, with wet stuff. It might work fine, it might give a negative effect. But the pre stuff is more then plenty!

"3rd Specs- What are the correct torque specs i've seen anything from 35 - 80ft lbs for converter to flexplate torque settings?."

The bolts should be M10x1.5. Which depending on the grade can be a few different options. 8.8=37Ft-Lb, and 10.9=53Ft-Lb. The bolts say on the head. Though if GM says 45-47, that should be fine.

"4th tips - Is there any special thing to do or lookout for when installing the torque converter. "

-Filling the converter before installing is important.
-When installing the converter on the transmission do it quick so you don't loose the fluid.
-You should feel the converter slide in three times. That is is engaging the different parts of the transmission. It is sorta like trying to get into a safe with out the numbers... Spin it back and forth with a smidge of pressure and listen for it to fall into place. You'll know if you did it right because the converter should spin free when the transmission is bolted back. That is before you bolt the flex plate to the converter obviously...
-When the transmission goes back up you need to make sure the dowel pins are lined up! If they aren't, you WILL crack the case. It might not even crack when you first tighten it down, but it will crack soon after.


Mainly posted just to get all the info in one place.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:00 PM
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X2 on installing the TC, 3 positions^^^.

Turbine/Input Shaft splines.
Stator/Stator Support splines.
Impeller Pump Hub/Pump drive lugs/splines.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech..._explained.asp
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec
"1st- the bolts - OEM Hex socket and longer, new bolts are shorter. "

If the new bolt is long enough to go through the flex plate, and have enough exposed threads to add up to roughly a nuts worth, then you can use the new ones. you do not want the bolt to bottom out the bolt into the converter though. It'll dong up the clutch surface...

"2nd- locktite- should it be used, the new bolts are prelocktited, the OEM were not locktited. Also, are pre locktited bolts just as good as freshly applied locktite ?, should i add extra locktite if using the new bolts?."

The pre-applied loctite is fine. I am not sure about mixing the pre-applied, with wet stuff. It might work fine, it might give a negative effect. But the pre stuff is more then plenty!

"3rd Specs- What are the correct torque specs i've seen anything from 35 - 80ft lbs for converter to flexplate torque settings?."

The bolts should be M10x1.5. Which depending on the grade can be a few different options. 8.8=37Ft-Lb, and 10.9=53Ft-Lb. The bolts say on the head. Though if GM says 45-47, that should be fine.

"4th tips - Is there any special thing to do or lookout for when installing the torque converter. "

-Filling the converter before installing is important.
-When installing the converter on the transmission do it quick so you don't loose the fluid.
-You should feel the converter slide in three times. That is is engaging the different parts of the transmission. It is sorta like trying to get into a safe with out the numbers... Spin it back and forth with a smidge of pressure and listen for it to fall into place. You'll know if you did it right because the converter should spin free when the transmission is bolted back. That is before you bolt the flex plate to the converter obviously...
-When the transmission goes back up you need to make sure the dowel pins are lined up! If they aren't, you WILL crack the case. It might not even crack when you first tighten it down, but it will crack soon after.


Mainly posted just to get all the info in one place.
Good job altec . Thumbs up :-) Allan
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:34 AM
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Thanks guys for the good effort and research.

Its done. I thought the 3 clicks clunks etc were the t/converter locking into position, but its more a sliding into position.

Ask me "how do you know"?

To make sure I had it one, i pulled at it, and it slide off x2.
So in reality its not attached to the the tranny but rather the engine through the flexplate via the t/converter bolts. right or wrong??

it is only the splines that keep it connected to the tranny.

ya learn some'n everyday !!
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:13 AM
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Thanks, Allan!



Yes sir, that is correct Yukon. Two splined shafts, and the snout of the converter has two notches which engage the pump. The noises of the converter sliding in are just random noises you hear 90% of the time when installing. I have had the random case of no noise, and it falling right in with almost no turning...
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec
Thanks, Allan!



Yes sir, that is correct Yukon. Two splined shafts, and the snout of the converter has two notches which engage the pump. The noises of the converter sliding in are just random noises you hear 90% of the time when installing. I have had the random case of no noise, and it falling right in with almost no turning...
We installed a torque converter on a TH400 yesterday and stood the trans on it's tail, since it was out. I had to spin the torque several revolutions to get the second clunk and then a couple more to get the last clunk into the pump. The first clunk was more or less immediate. BTW , We finally got to use my home built engine lifting plate and installed the 454 and trans as a unit with the front clip removed. The assembly hung level and went in slick as gas through a funnel... Allan P.S. Sorry Cole , I forgot the camera. It was a perfect photo op. I'll post a pic of the plate when it comes back home .
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