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Old 03-28-2010, 04:00 PM
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Going from 2pc seal adapter back to 1pc crank

My 383 short motor (1pc rear seal block) came with a 2pc rear seal crank + adapter. It had also been line bored. I acquired the engine in this state. I'm now swapping out the crank for a 1pc rear seal crank and ditching the 2pc adapter, replacing it with the factory 1pc unit. Question is, do I need to have the block line bored again?

Thanks.

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Last edited by v8hed; 03-28-2010 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:43 PM
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No, you don't. They don't have the seal adapter on the block when they line hone or line bore, so it never changes dimensionally in this area. You can just swap it back to it's original style.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
No, you don't. They don't have the seal adapter on the block when they line hone or line bore, so it never changes dimensionally in this area. You can just swap it back to it's original style.
That's great, thanks.

One more question... the orginal 1pc seal housing wasn't supplied with the engine. However, I happen to have a 1pc seal housing from a mid-90s Vortec block laying around... can I use that? It looks like it bolts right up. The block I'm building is an '86 model year (first year of the 1pc design, I believe?).
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:00 PM
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Yes, that is the same piece. I don't know if the oil pan is the same between the 2-pc conversion adapter and 1-pc adapter, so check that.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:48 PM
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Here's some info that may help:

P/N GM # 10108477 is the stock cast aluminum retainer (housing) for the 86- up 1-piece RMS block, #12337823 is the gasket, and #0088158 is the seal itself.

There are adapters that use one piece RMS pans like GM #10051118, and adapters that use 2-piece RMS pans, like Moroso #38315.

The 2 short bolts are 1/4-20 thread; 3/8" hex head; 7/8" long.

The stud is 1/4-20 thread;7/16" hex bolt; 2-3/32" long (w/o torx head- additional 3/16").
Threaded portion into block is 3/8" long; thread on opposite end (w/nut) is 9/16" long (w/o torx head).
OD of unthreaded portion is 17/64".
Torx socket size on stud is a loose 6, IIRC.
Located on driver side.

Last long bolt is same thread; 3/8" hex head; 1-3/4" long. Threads are 1-5/32" long; OD of unthreaded portion is 1/4".
Located on passenger side.

The two oil pan studs are 5/16-18; 1-5/16 long as measured above. Torx socket #7.

Bolt length is from under the head to the end, not counting the hex head.

Dowel for locating the housing is a steel split sleeve, 7/16" (compressed into the block hole) OD x 13/16" long w/a 1/16" wall.

All the fasteners are hex except for the male torx "heads" on the studs, used to drive them before the nut is used.

The two outer pan fasteners are studs, w/male torx heads for driving, they require nuts to secure the pan.

The torx heads for driving in the studs are not necessary- if the female threads are clean, the studs can be turned in by hand and will be fine. The stud itself may, however, come out of the part instead of the nut unthreading if done this way.

A dab of permatex can be used to secure the studs if you feel this is a problem, or the stud double-nutted to tighten. This is all really unnecessary, IMHO.

There's no reason AFAIK that you couldn't just use all bolts and forget about studs. The studs do make assembly a little easier- especially in an assembly line setting, but aren't absolutely necessary.

The one stud (driver side, long) has a larger OD on its unthreaded portion. This does not seem to be important AFA being necessary to locate the housing.


Hardware laid out around the housing.

Hardware inserted into the various holes of the housing, viewed from engine side.

Dowel alone

Dowel in place in the block.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-28-2010 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:57 AM
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Thanks for all that info... thankfully, I've got the fasteners with the spare 1pc housing. Might need the oil pan studs though.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8hed
Thanks for all that info... thankfully, I've got the fasteners with the spare 1pc housing. Might need the oil pan studs though.

Thanks again.
Yeah- that was a bit of overkill... it was originally compiled for a good guy here who needed ALL the fastener info, etc.- IIRC, he was working w/a bare block.

Is your new 1-pc. RMS crank also 3-3/4"? I need to pick a crank for my Vortec engine, likely will go w/a 3-3/4" crank for it, too.
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