Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Going from 700R4 to Muncie 4-speed '31 Coupe
View Single Post
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 01:45 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 60
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 598 Times in 547 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 31ROC View Post
AGAIN....great info and much appreciated...this "2-piece" bellhousing w/scattershield, is it one size? is it bigger than stock bellhousing (meaning, will I need more room under the floor compared to stock bellhousing?)
And will the clutch size (11" or 10 1/2") determine bellhousing size?
A scattershield will fit where the stock bellhousing did, for the most part. If it's for the 168 tooth flywheel there can be fitment problems if the original bellhousing was for the 153 tooth flywheel. It's made of stronger (and heavier) steel, not cast iron or aluminum.

The flywheel size is what determines what size the bellhousing has to be.

Going by your statements about how the vehicle will be driven, I would recommend a cast aluminum factory bellhousing, a 10.5" clutch, and a hydraulic TOB if that's what's going to be easier for you (I'm guessing the truck was originally AT).

A used bellhousing shouldn't cost much at all, under $100 I would think. Some casting numbers to look for: Need Chevy bellhousing advice

Again- this recommendation is based on what you said. If you go against your own words and over rev this set up and the flywheel chews your leg off, don't blame ME!

An SFI approved steel bellhousing is not cheap, but it will save you and the vehicle from heavy damage. There is a non SFI steel bellhousing made by Lakewood, but I know little about it other than it uses a 153 tooth flywheel, so it should fit well under most any vehicle.

Good luck.

Last edited by cobalt327; 12-12-2012 at 01:56 PM.
Reply With Quote