Going from 700R4 to Muncie 4-speed '31 Coupe - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 10:48 AM
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Car presently has 700R4 in it, and removing for manual trans..

OK...let me see if I got this right....
I have chosen a Munice M20 4 speed....
next step:
choose flywheel type and size?
then clutch size?
then bell housing type and size?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:09 AM
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What year is the engine you have now? Is it a 1 piece or 2 piece seal? I saw a Model A over the weekend where someone was running a Muncie and had the pedals mounted like a later model car. He said the pedals came out of a Mustang and it had a hydraulic clutch set up. He had a old iron bellhousing that had the clutch fork on the passenger side instead of the drivers side. I would not worry about a scatter shield on a street car. The most common flywheel and bellhousing you are going to find is for the 10.5 inch clutch. If it's a 1 piece seal engine, I would look for the lite weight flywheel they used in the late 80s Corvette, the engine will rev quicker than it will with the heavier flywheel.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:16 AM
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Well....thats ANOTHER good question!.....the motor I've been told is mid-'70's, so I guess I have to start with getting a serial number off the block?
How do I tell if I have 1 or 2 piece seal? ( I assume you are reffering to rear main seal)?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:22 AM
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If it's a 70s engine than it's a 2 piece rear main seal. The 1 piece seal engines started in the late 80s. Both the big and small flywheels can be found easy for the 2 piece seal engines. It's a little bit harder and cost more to find the aluminum bellhousings for the big flywheel.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd View Post
If it's a 70s engine than it's a 2 piece rear main seal. The 1 piece seal engines started in the late 80s. Both the big and small flywheels can be found easy for the 2 piece seal engines. It's a little bit harder and cost more to find the aluminum bellhousings for the big flywheel.
can I verify it being a 2 piece by visual under car?
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:28 AM
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There is a block number near the bellhousing. It's easy to see. You can find out what you have by the block number. Once you get the number you can look on ebay to see what people want for the parts.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:31 AM
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yes....I been all over auction site and web for pricing...thanks again.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:56 AM
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Guys, opinions on Richmond 5-speed?
Vs. the Muncie M20?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:10 AM
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richmond is a nice shifting transmission with out over drive.Not sure if they still make them?I use a TKO 600,its strong,has decent gear set,2 choices of over drive,not great for shifting 2-3 if you race(upgrades available) reasonable price at 2200 brand new.
Muncie is very smooth shifting,not as strong as some transmission when used in stock cases,expensive.By the time you make a muncie strong,you could buy a 5 speed.
If you like the low first gear of your 700r,the TKO 500 has a 3.27 first gear
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:35 PM
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thanks, I bring up the richmond since there is a new one locally, and did not know if it would fit, or be the right fit.....
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd View Post
What year is the engine you have now? Is it a 1 piece or 2 piece seal? I saw a Model A over the weekend where someone was running a Muncie and had the pedals mounted like a later model car. He said the pedals came out of a Mustang and it had a hydraulic clutch set up. He had a old iron bellhousing that had the clutch fork on the passenger side instead of the drivers side. I would not worry about a scatter shield on a street car. The most common flywheel and bellhousing you are going to find is for the 10.5 inch clutch. If it's a 1 piece seal engine, I would look for the lite weight flywheel they used in the late 80s Corvette, the engine will rev quicker than it will with the heavier flywheel.
OK...I found this number just below passenger side head out front on the block...M02239VP, (or VR cant tell)...i cannot find this on the web, can anyone decode this?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31ROC View Post
OK...I found this number just below passenger side head out front on the block...M02239VP, (or VR cant tell)...i cannot find this on the web, can anyone decode this?
M = Mexican casting. I see nothing for "9VP" or "VP". Could be a crate engine or a light truck engine. Truck suffix codes aren't that well represented in most data bases.

The block casting number would be a better indicator. The suffix you have is often seen on the c/n 10066036 block- which is a 1-piece rear main seal block w/o the casting bosses for a factory roller cam and lifters. Whether or not this relates to your engine remains to be seen.

To tell if it's a roller engine, you might be able to see down past the p-rod into the lifter valley if you have good lighting. If you see the roller cam spider, that tells you. Or you can remove a push rod to see if it's a roller or not. Flat tappet p-rod will be about 7.8", the roller engine uses a 7.2" p-rod.

Good luck.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
M = Mexican casting. I see nothing for "9VP" or "VP". Could be a crate engine or a light truck engine. Truck suffix codes aren't that well represented in most data bases.

The block casting number would be a better indicator. The suffix you have is often seen on the c/n 10066036 block- which is a 1-piece rear main seal block w/o the casting bosses for a factory roller cam and lifters. Whether or not this relates to your engine remains to be seen.

To tell if it's a roller engine, you might be able to see down past the p-rod into the lifter valley if you have good lighting. If you see the roller cam spider, that tells you. Or you can remove a push rod to see if it's a roller or not. Flat tappet p-rod will be about 7.8", the roller engine uses a 7.2" p-rod.

Good luck.
Thats it! near the transmission, at back of the block. is that number-10066036,and not sure, but I thought the original owner said it was a 4 bolt main truck block? does that make sense? Can we tell what year?
Thanks again.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31ROC View Post
Thats it! near the transmission, at back of the block. is that number-10066036,and not sure, but I thought the original owner said it was a 4 bolt main truck block? does that make sense? Can we tell what year?
Thanks again.
Look in the same area, possibly on the opposite side from where you say the c/n. There you should see a date code, something like E 22 9 or something like that.

If I was going to go by the suffix string you gave us (M02239VP), I'd say it was from '89 or '99. If it was '99 it would likely be a crate engine. If '89 it could be a production piece.

M02239VP: M = Mexican; 02 = Feb; 23 = 23rd day of month, 9 = year ending in 9 (or the 9 is part of the suffix code, i.e. 9VP)
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 06:44 PM
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looked all over...cannot find any more numbers.....I guess its a guess on a year?
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