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Old 09-28-2013, 11:44 PM
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Going to get supplies for the rudestude soon!

Well I promised to keep you guys posted on her and I sure will, however having some know how about paint I have heard from many painters that some primers, base coats and even clear coats react with eachother chemically and form bubbles, flakes, the whole nightmare, but before I go out and buy whatever paint I believe in doing the job right, plus I'm OCD about it all being absolutely perfect. She better come out like a gem, lol... But anyways, I want to know the paint brands you guys have successfully used and that don't chemically react,I know they aren't cheap with the primers and other activators and paint, including clear, but I want to spend some but get it right the first time, I don't wanna be jerkin around a second time sanding and wasting time, so whatever help and info you guys give me is more than appreciated, thanks allot guys.i know there is the typical eastwood, but I've heard not so good things about them.. And I'm sorry I've been looking into guns as well there's this kobalt one at lowes or Home Depot, would you guys trust it? I only have a 26 gal. Husky, i know I need more (60 gal), but we work with what we got, I'm planning on letting it build up charge so I'll do one panel or side, then wait for another full tank. Bad method?thanks again y'all.


If you're wondering about the name... I named the car this because I took her drag racing (test and tune)with open headers, not the quietest thing ever, but I forgot it was honda night, so all you'd hear is cachunk cachunk, but she really did surprise me, she did pretty good... I think all the ricers hate me now lol... Oh well haha

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Old 09-29-2013, 06:49 AM
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Hey Mike

Really there are a few tips that we can give you that will help you in getting the finish that you want. First of all, you could go to a local paint supplier and get prices on material from Epoxy Primer to High Build primer , Base Coat and of coarse Clear.

Depending on color for a complete car the size of yours, your going to be in the neighborhood of about $1,500.00 or more for material if your going with the top of the line of any major manufacturer's offering. Or You could go to SPI and get top of the line product at a much better price, better service (they actually appreciate your business) and have a very user friendly durable product and shipping is free.

Here is a list of what you would need.

Epoxy Primer (I like using Black...I can explain why later)
Primer Part #6620 Price $86.10
Activator Part # 6700 Price $86.10

Turbo 2K High Build Primer (this product we should discuss...I don't use High Build any more but some still do)
Primer Part # 6310-1 Price $127.50
Activator Part # 6350-4 Price $40.90
Reducer Part # 885-1 Price $46.65

Universal Clear
Clear Part # 4000-1 Price $106.60
Activator Part # 4003-4 Price $35.40

SPI's web site is

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

If your looking for color SPI does have several choices, they don't have the huge color pallet that the majors do...so if your looking for White, Black or Red...SPI's base Coats are second to none. If you want a different color, any major manufacturer will be happy to sell you base coat...starting at about $350.00 a gallon and upwards to over $1,000.00 a gallon for fancy Reds with pearls and such.

There isn't any problem using SPI's primer's and clear's and some other manufacturer's base coat.

Now the paint gun...Check to see if there are any used quality guns on Craig's list or places like that. Guns from Sata, Devilbus, Iwata if you find one,give us the part # and the price and we can let you know if its a good buy.

No Mike, I don't work for SPI...LOL

Ray
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:57 PM
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Sweet baby Jesus, that's quite allot for a gallon, but I would like to thank you for telling me about SPI and I am going for a black and give her a thick clear coat so she looks high gloss, I guess that's how it would work, lol... And I will be hunting Craig's for a good paint gun, but goodness that's only about 700 all together with a gun, so that's not as bad as I thought it would be, and the reason you like using the black urethane primer is that the black shows any imperfections in he body? And as soon as I get the gun I'll probably place an order for the primers, and other supplies, and I wouldn't care if you did or not lol at least helping a customer out like that would be great haha.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:00 PM
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And thanks allot for helping me out with the gun, and I will surely let you know what I find,
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mechanic Mike View Post
Sweet baby Jesus, that's quite allot for a gallon, .
He he you think thats bad, just go price a gallon of PPG DBC

Vince
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:18 PM
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Hey Mike, your right about the Black Primer showing everything and that is exactly why I use Black Primer, if I can see something in the reflection...I can see it easier in black.

Also, seeing that your looking at a Black finish, SPI does have Black Base Coat as I mentioned...

Part #2000 series...ask for Black...price $191.62 a Gallon. and you already have 3 quarts of reducer left from the gallon of Turbo 2K Primer...that means at a 1 to 1 mix on the base coat...you would have 6 sprayable quarts...with a black substrate...your covered.

Hope that helps.

Ray
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:27 PM
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It helps allot ray thanks, and looks like I'm set as far as the paint brand of knowing what to get, thanks allot ray you are awesome,
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:29 PM
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Plus the imperfections if any ill use filler or bond ow and sand it down to follow the body contour,
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:56 AM
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First, as we discussed in a previous thread...get the car striped, rough out the metal work (Hammer & Dolly, unispotter whatever)...apply at least 2 coats of Black Epoxy (Even over the dents that are left)...do your filler work directly over the Epoxy (You have a 7 day window that you work over top of the Epoxy, if you go past that window, rough up the Epoxy with 180 grit and do your filler work over top of that). Once you have your filler work done, apply 2 more coats of Epoxy...now, depending on how straight the car is, you can either start blocking the vehicle (I'd start with about 240 on a long board) or you can apply 2 coats of High Build Primer.

I only use the Epoxy primer now, I spend more time getting my filler work straight, Epoxy over top, block the Epoxy and paint. Your vehicle is going Black, the amount of time you spend on any filler work will be rewarded when you go for final blocking...Oh...just on a side note...and I'm sure we will talk again before we get to this stage, but, I finish any and all my filler work in 320 before I prime over top...I don't get sand scratches or swelling showing up down the road.

Ray
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic Mike View Post
Sweet baby Jesus, that's quite allot for a gallon, but I would like to thank you for telling me about SPI and I am going for a black and give her a thick clear coat so she looks high gloss, I guess that's how it would work, lol... And I will be hunting Craig's for a good paint gun, but goodness that's only about 700 all together with a gun, so that's not as bad as I thought it would be, and the reason you like using the black urethane primer is that the black shows any imperfections in he body? And as soon as I get the gun I'll probably place an order for the primers, and other supplies, and I wouldn't care if you did or not lol at least helping a customer out like that would be great haha.
Don't look at it as $330 for a single gallon, because by the time you reduce it 50% and add a capful to ounce of activator it's actually 2 sprayable gallons. Sure still expensive, but now not AS expensive.

What Ray hasn't showed on his price list down below is the activator for the clear is $35x4, so it's actually $140 total for clearcoat activator, plus the cost of the clear.

Reducer for basecoat is about $37 for a gallon if I remember, just ordered some last week or so.

There are lots of costs that still kill you. The actual equipment adds up...having the right air filtration system in place, supplies for making your booth, lots and lots of sandpaper, sanding boards, body filler, tools, there's always something you find you don't have but need (NEED is how you explain it to the wife ) It's a good thing they don't read these.

And with mess ups, you end up buying more base. I bought an additional 3 quarts after my first gallon, which means at $89 a quart which is a reasonable base (ProSpray), I'm $581 into basecoat, and will have some left over. I'm $74 into reducer. I sprayed one gallon kit of SPI 2k high build primer, 1 gallon of Evercoat Slick Sand ($100), several gallons of filler at $40 a pop (don't worry, most of it ended up on the floor...learning curve will make you use a lot more filler), 1 gallon SPI epoxy kit plus another 3 quarts, and 1 gallon kit of Universal clear plus another 2 quarts (because I got scared I would run out and don't want to run out in the middle of the job), 2 gallons urethane reducer at $37, 3 gallons of wax and grease remover at $24 each, $230 worth of seam sealer, $80 worth of putty, $40 for fiberglass filler, are just some of the things that come to mind immediately. Note if I were to do this again, I wouldn't use near as much of any of these. It's the first time when you're figuring it out that you just go through a lot of product.

I have well over a $1000 into materials/chemicals alone, and my equipment and tools...I just don't ever add anything up
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