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Old 11-13-2007, 10:35 AM
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Good Hot Rod Mag Aproved Paint!

HR APPROVED

TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE... GO TO THE LINK!

Quote:
A 1962 Ford Falcon Recieve A Budget Paint Job - The $98 Paint Job
With Paint and Materials You'd Never Consider Using on a Car, We Perform the Cheapest Paint Job Ever. And It Looks Good!
writer: Christopher Campbell
photographer: Christopher Campbell, Jorge Nunez

With style like this, you gotta get the stance right. To tuck the new wide whites further up in the wheelwells, we cut two coils for the front springs and used 3-inch blocks in the rear with new, upgraded 7/16 U-bolts. The U-bolts cost more than the paint.

What better car to apply $23.74 worth of paint to than a $200 '62 Ford Falcon?

    Advertisement

Last edited by Jon; 11-13-2007 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Copy-pasting. Please see: copy-pasting guidelines.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:18 AM
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This subject has been beat to death on here and there are threads still hanging out there regarding this subject. Just because Hot Rod magazine endorses something doesn't make it a recommended practice. The paint doesn't wear well and in a short amount of time, more than likely a year or less, the paint will start to get chalky/oxidize and the color will fade. These paints cannot be painted over because they react with just about anything else applied on top of it. I have redone a vehicle that had been painted with the method that is the subject of this thread and it ended up eating up a month of evenings and weekends just to remove the paint. My bad experience with this paint was enough to keep me from condoning this paint as a material of choice. Sorry to have hurt your feelings or offended you, but this is my opinion of this paint.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:39 AM
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Maybe you are someone different it really does not matter, What is your point? Those of us that are familiar with this junk know it is nothing short of stupidity to use it on a car and AGAIN it has been said REPEATEDLY that it can be done! The problem, and the point we are trying to make, is that when you are finished you will have a mess on your hands that will take longer to repair than it did to apply. I don't know what is driving you, whoever you are, or what your real purpose is but the problems with using that kind of junk so far outweigh the benefits, IF any, that it is not even worth discussing. So what if it looks ok right now that means nothing and if someone falls for this nonsense they will pay the price sooner rather than later. Why don't you get a life and go play somewhere else?
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:11 PM
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Last edited by Styluss; 11-17-2007 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:21 PM
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We have a wiki on this very subject.
While I have no intention of ever repairing a vehicle with this type of paint job, I can see where people might consider it a viable option. We are a group of car people who take a lot of pride in our work and have no intention of saving money by using cheaper products after all our work. I have learned that I save more time by using quality materials rather than trying to cut corners. When i have cut corners, I ended up paying for it by spending more time on it. To me ten days is a substantial amount of time to work on something and then paint it with such material. If I spend ten days on something, it is getting the best materials I can spray, be it Chroma Base, Sikkens or Glasurit. Mind you I have a shop in which to do my work. I have done plenty of paint jobs outside and for that situation, alkyd enamel is sufficient. I just hate color sanding and buffing so I use what gives me the best results. That way I can get on to the next project. Good luck on the paint work.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:27 PM
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Last edited by Styluss; 11-17-2007 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Styluss
If you take a look at the "1 year later" pictures from the gentleman that did it on his Corvair the paint looks the DAMN SAME as it did the day he finsihed applying it.
I never once said that this is an end all solution to painting your car, nor did I guarantee anything. Perhaps I should add an "attempt at your own risk" clause...?
And you keep referring to needing to strip all of the "bad" paint off to re-apply a "proper" paint job... there is no need for that! IF it comes to the point where the paint goes bad on me, I'll just tape the car up again (15 minute job), sand it down right quick (another 10 minutes) and throw on another 2 coats. That is one of the best things about this method, if someone damages my fender or something, I can just repaint only the fender.
To me, this is a lifesaver. No, my Beretta might not be the best damn car on the road, but I LOVE IT TO DEATH. I am a huge Beretta enthusiast and plan on owning this car until it just flat out dies on me. And this paint process enables me to bring it back to life if you will. Plus, I can revive it whenever need be.

I am glad to see someone on the board holding a conversation with me, not just bashing my posts.

Your lack of understanding here is REALLY showing now! In a while (maybe a year or so IF it is garaged) when that "paint" starts to deteriorate it is going to take a heck of a lot more than just a couple more coats to revive it, no point in tying to explain why you will find out soon enough. At this point you have nothing to base your claims on except it SEEMS to be working for you right now so give that thing a year outside and then come back and tells how wrong we are. We will gladly wait!


(Sorry Cyclops I could'nt help it)
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:42 PM
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Last edited by Styluss; 11-17-2007 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:43 PM
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If you got that kind of result with a roller and what not. Once you have a shop to work in, good materials, equipment and some training, you should be able to do some real nice long lasting work. The Alkyd enamel I have seen on vehicles tended to need a lot more maintenance for the shine than a typical urethane base clear or even single stage urethane. My customers just want to wax their cars once or twice a year and drive them, they aren't into keeping them waxed religiously to keep the shine they expect. Not trying to bash you or the paint, just stating my opinion.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:49 PM
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I don't get the big deal about talking about this stuff. If we want to help the uninformed not make the mistake, isn't this where it should be discussed? If it is on some forum where everyone says that it is wonderful and we don't put our two cents in discussing the bad points, people WILL think that it is a good idea.

Brian
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I don't get the big deal about talking about this stuff. If we want to help the uninformed not make the mistake, isn't this where it should be discussed?
Agreed, we should discuss it here. But we should document it in the wiki: Cheapo paint job. This will (eventually) save us time, and provide us with a way to more efficiently educate the uninformed.

The fact that this issue comes up repeatedly demonstrates that it's not the fault of one misinformed person, but a cultural-wide issue, and one that we're in a position to address.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jene
Discuss the bad points!! Discuss everything... That is the point fo a forum.
You are right Jene, I didn't mean to leave that hanging there on "BAD" points. This is something for someone, as long as the person understands what they are getting, I say go for it. It if meets one expectations, go for it.

Brian

Last edited by Centerline; 11-14-2007 at 09:57 AM. Reason: Other.
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:00 PM
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So serisously.. lets say i use this method and then down the road I decided to get it repainted at a shop. What kind of things would need to be done to prep my car for repaint?

It sounds like some of you have experience with this method.. how long does it last and what are some of the issues?

i was seriously thinking about using this on my corsica, just for poops and giggles to try it out....i would really like to research this to make sure this si the right choice for the car...

I think styluss did a great job on the "cheapo paint job" it came out well for what it is!

but there is more then one side to the story and thier maybe instances where people have had issues...
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:07 PM
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The RustO Leum, House of Krylon or Alkyd enamel, whatever it gets called, would have to be removed from the vehicle before any other material could be applied. The two materials have very different chemical make up which causes ugly things to happen when modern paint or primers are applied over it. I posted previously in this thread about taking a substantial amount of time to remove the offending paint on one car before I could start refinishing it.
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jene
So serisously.. lets say i use this method and then down the road I decided to get it repainted at a shop. What kind of things would need to be done to prep my car for repaint?

It sounds like some of you have experience with this method.. how long does it last and what are some of the issues?

i was seriously thinking about using this on my corsica, just for poops and giggles to try it out....i would really like to research this to make sure this si the right choice for the car...

I think styluss did a great job on the "cheapo paint job" it came out well for what it is!

but there is more then one side to the story and thier maybe instances where people have had issues...
We are talking THOUSANDS of dollars more to remove that paint. Painting over it is a BIG mistake and will 99 times out of 100 fail right in front of your eyes when you try to apply something over it.

The original paint on the other hand can be sanded and painted over without a problem. Even multiple repaints with normal automotive paint can be sanded and painted over without a problem. But the Rustolium type product is so soluable the solvents from just about anything being shot over it will get thru and under it lifting terribly.

Brian
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