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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 07:38 PM
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Again, why poison yourself with chemicals when a little PPE will do nicely? Gloves are cheap. Would you paint epoxy without a respirator then try to wash your lungs out in paint thinner hoping not to die of asphyxiation?

Just use the proper gear.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 07:53 PM
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thinner

it also absorbs through the skin into your blood and also dries your skin not to mention the burn if you have a cut or hangnail.i had to wash the paint off a complete paint job because i forgot to put hardner in it got high as heck felt real good for an hour then had the worst headache ever for four hours now i use nothing but painters soap or dawn with gloves but use gloves to start with and no mess no problems.save the thinner for cleaning your guns
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
it also absorbs through the skin into your blood and also dries your skin not to mention the burn if you have a cut or hangnail.i had to wash the paint off a complete paint job because i forgot to put hardner in it got high as heck felt real good for an hour then had the worst headache ever for four hours now i use nothing but painters soap or dawn with gloves but use gloves to start with and no mess no problems.save the thinner for cleaning your guns
It only dries your hands out for a lil while, I use it quite a bit. Alot of stuff if it contains alcohol (nail polish, etc) will burn and dry your hands. I do agree tho, use gloves when using POR15, Super glue, gorilla glue, paint, etc. But if youve already got it on you and you need it off, you gotta do what you gotta do.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 11:53 PM
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Nothing will dissolve it when it has dried.

I still find Aloe Baby Wipes to be the best for removing anything that gets on my hands, non toxic too.

I would have a long hot shower and scape it off. Try the baby wipe trick, it works really well for most things and will get the stuff out of your pores.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 07:40 AM
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I use a vegetable brush when I need to really get the shop stuff off. Long soak in hot water with dish wash soap seems the best for me.

After a lifetime of solvents and oils in the shop I am extremely sensitive to any solvent. It drys the skin and in a matter of hours I can get a skin crack that quickly gets real sore. Right now it is tough to even type.

Even leather gloves which I have to wear all day long at work dry the skin. I usually use a soft cotton glove inside except the TIG gloves.

For glues there is a product called Liquid Gloves that I got at the drug store. It seems to be just a heavier hand lotion but it does work if you use it before the fact.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:41 AM
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Harbor Freight has packages of 100 disposable gloves, latex, plastic or nitrile(the best choice) and all are about $7 to $10 a box. There are better brands but more expensive and these cheapies do last if reasonably careful at least a couple of times before they tear. Regardless, somehow I still will usually get something like Gorilla Glue, Minwax Stain or SPI epoxy on my hands - and in 2-3 weeks it will all be gone - until the next time

Just dont use chemicals like acetone, lacquer thinner, gasoline or similar. Enough of that stuff can kill, or at least could make you very sick. I spent a night in the E-room at a hospital from using thinners cleaning parts. The high was great, but the lack of being able to breathe and chest pains a few hours later wasn't fun. Then there was the bill, even with health insurance and that caused another ache - in the check book.

Dave W
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Old 02-21-2009, 09:33 AM
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I've pushed this product before at this site, Bag Balm, for cow udders, works great for dry skin, it's cheap, around 4 bucks a tin at Walgreens, a tin will last forever, can't be beat.

For the dried on paint or por15, rub hand lotion or a gentle hand cleaner, the citrus kind seems to work best, on your hands, put the disposable gloves on for a half hour or so, the sweating of the skin helps push the crud out of your pores. Take the gloves off and start wiping your hands off with a rag.

Dan

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mastus1
I inherited my dad's 1966 ford F100. He bought it when I was 11 and drove it for 38 years. untill dec.2007 when he passed away. it was hit on the passenger side. and upset him so bad his blood pressure spiked and he had a stroke.
They don't build 'em like they used to... I'd be that upset as well. everything is automatic and luxurious these days, or plastic. What happend to a good, honest pickup like the f100 you have? Take a current truck off road and try not to bust any politically correct aerodynamic aids, scrape it up from low clearance, or bang your head on the aerodynamic a pillar. Gosh it's a shame. They're nicer on the road, sure, but isn't that what a passenger car is for?

My rant aside...

Well, remember when working with tools, chemicals, or anything else, safety first

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 08:47 PM
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handy

heres a handy little tool i found that works great for cleaning your hands and nails also wheels.use your favorite hand soap,its a big help when your going out in public .well couldnt send a picture but its called sonic scrubber and it looks like a giant electric tooth brush worth every penny
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 09:55 PM
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I'll bet butter or a warm porkchop will take it off..seems like when ever I get stuff on my hands that won't come off with acetone, carb cleaner, laquer thinner, gasoline or TNT and a wire wheel or scotchbrite pad, as soon as I get home and start cooking, the stuff always stains up the cube of butter or sausage patty...cheese seems very absorbent too. Never tried it with go-rilla glue though..I think a test is in order.

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
I'll bet butter or a warm porkchop will take it off..seems like when ever I get stuff on my hands that won't come off with acetone, carb cleaner, laquer thinner, gasoline or TNT and a wire wheel or scotchbrite pad, as soon as I get home and start cooking, the stuff always stains up the cube of butter or sausage patty...cheese seems very absorbent too. Never tried it with go-rilla glue though..I think a test is in order.

Later, mikey
Mikey... I needed that laugh....LOL...
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 06:06 AM
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fats

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
Mikey... I needed that laugh....LOL...
gurila glue is also low in saturated fats,has a bit of a gamie taste though
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
I'll bet butter or a warm porkchop will take it off..seems like when ever I get stuff on my hands that won't come off with acetone, carb cleaner, laquer thinner, gasoline or TNT and a wire wheel or scotchbrite pad, as soon as I get home and start cooking, the stuff always stains up the cube of butter or sausage patty...cheese seems very absorbent too. Never tried it with go-rilla glue though..I think a test is in order.

Later, mikey
Mikey just tip.. Don't let people see you cooking with that glue on your hands. They will not eat what you cook. Even when you cook really well.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weirdbeard
Mikey just tip.. Don't let people see you cooking with that glue on your hands. They will not eat what you cook. Even when you cook really well.
So that's why Mikey's Pork chops come out so good!!!!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 11:23 AM
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food 4 thought

gets me tinkin,next time i cook out ill get the glue first then flip them porterhouses,more 4 me,im hungry
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