[stevekz]

I thought I had my issues resolved(new radiator,cap and thermostat fixed overheating) Now I have a new one. As stated earlier, I just built the engine and have about 45 total minutes of "run "time and the garage filled up with BLUE smoke. Am I jumping to conclusions or did I not get the rings to seat? I did use hypereutectic pistons but cast iron rings.Am I going to need a "teardown" or is that premature?Thanks

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by stevekz

I thought I had my issues resolved(new radiator,cap and thermostat fixed overheating) Now I have a new one. As stated earlier, I just built the engine and have about 45 total minutes of "run "time and the garage filled up with BLUE smoke. Am I jumping to conclusions or did I not get the rings to seat? I did use hypereutectic pistons but cast iron rings.Am I going to need a "teardown" or is that premature?Thanks

You sure aren't going to get the rings to seat with 45 minutes of idling. A cast iron, uncoated ring will probably take 500 to 1000 miles to seat. A moly ring seats almost immediately, chrome can take a few thousand miles. I'd say drive it awhile.

Bogie

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by stevekz

I thought I had my issues resolved(new radiator,cap and thermostat fixed overheating) Now I have a new one. As stated earlier, I just built the engine and have about 45 total minutes of "run "time and the garage filled up with BLUE smoke. Am I jumping to conclusions or did I not get the rings to seat? I did use hypereutectic pistons but cast iron rings.Am I going to need a "teardown" or is that premature?Thanks

Premature.

Once the engine has been run long enough for the cam to break in, now the time has come to take it out and by using varying loads and RPM, w/time spent decelerating the engine w/closed throttle, to break in the rings.

I would change the oil and filter before going out on the road.

The exact "correct" procedure to break in the engine is up for debate- some say run hell out of it from the get-go, others (myself among them) say to run it not much over the torque peak w/a lot of decelerating w/closed throttle for a hundred miles before beginning to increase the load/throttle/RPM until all's good at about 1000 miles.

[stevekz]

I have just been tinkering with the exhaust and am a ways out on getting it road worthy. Is there anything I can or need to do until I get it ready for the open road? This is going to be a fair weather creature as it will have no roof or windows or any of the creature comforts. This will be a car that says "street rod" and my grandkids will argue over and will hope I leave to them,lol. I hope to upgrade the 882's this summer to some bolt on AFR's and see what gains I make from there. thanks for the feedback

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by stevekz

Is there anything I can or need to do until I get it ready for the open road?

Other than safety items, as for the engine, set the timing curve up to match the combo, be sure the cooling system is up to snuff, that sort of thing.

[Hippie]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

The exact "correct" procedure to break in the engine is up for debate- some say run hell out of it from the get-go, others (myself among them) say to run it not much over the torque peak w/a lot of decelerating w/closed throttle for a hundred miles before beginning to increase the load/throttle/RPM until all's good at about 1000 miles.

That's how I was taught and it has served me well for almost 40 years.