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Old 06-10-2013, 08:15 AM
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gouged crankshaft

So I screwed up. While installing my pistons I wasn't paying attention and forgot to place some tubing over the connecting rod bolts. I ended up gouging my crankshaft.

I used 400 grit sandpaper to remove the edges of the gouge, and placed a bearing over the gouged section of the crankshaft. After spinning the crank a couple times I removed the bearing and there doesn't seem to be any gouging of the bearing. Am I ok to use the crank or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new crank?
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:28 AM
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I'm wondering if that specific journal can be cleaned up and use an oversize bearing?
Is it a special crank?

peace
Hog
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:34 AM
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It's a stock crank, but the gouge seems pretty deep to clean up.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:34 AM
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That's going to create some bearing heat I would think. You should beable to get it cleaned up at a machine shop.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:52 PM
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Thats an odd mark to get from a rod bolt?

There are a few corrections,
regrind and repolish

polish 1 journal and buy 2 custom bearings(not a good idea,generally)

repolish all the journals 1-2 thou and buy special bearings,

risk it and run it with damage,

replace crank (last resort)
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:59 PM
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yeah, I was tapping the piston in and neglected to align the crank correctly. Boneheaded move on my part. I've decided to buy a new crank due to the fact to have it ground and polished would cost $70 - $100, and new bearings would cost around $10 - $20.

Since I was already using an older stock crank I went with a new Eagle Specialty Products crank for $50 more. I considered it my punishment for not using my brain.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:08 PM
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My local machine shop sells reground and polished GM OEM cranks for $125. I would return that Eagle and go with OEM. The quality is at least quadruple that of Eagle for the same price.

So are you going to balance your new rotating assembly?
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:53 PM
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"So are you going to balance your new rotating assembly?"

If you buy the Eagle crank you are!!!!!

I've seen hundreds of stock cranks that have marks in them. As long as the gouge has no high spots, it will not hurt to run it. The low spot will only act as an oil reserve.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:04 PM
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I've bought new pistons as well so I probably should re-balance the old crank or the new one (depending on which one I go with)

I found this post to be interesting though:

ENGINE BALANCING

"most v-8s are over-balanced , which means the crankshaft counterweight has more mass than the rod/piston bob weight. This is usually done to help counter-balance gas pressures applied on the rod piston when its a BDC. So, if your new rods and pistons are say, up to 50 grams lighter than the old ones, you probably won't even feel any vibration difference, any more than that and you might, but it doesn't spell doom for your rotating assembly.If your stuff is a little heavier, that's easily fixed yourself. Of course a big difference with big ol' heavy rods or super light-weight parts will require a crank spin-balance, and the whole nine yards.
A perfect example is of a 360 Dodge I built when I was a kid, I had a donated block, picked up a crank at one junk yard and two rods and pistons at another. The machine shop said I couldn't do it, it worked just fine, and I only had 600 bucks in the whole thing. headers ,cam ect."
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:11 AM
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The argument of balancing or not is moot.Way,way,too many bearing failures in unbalanced engines.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:04 AM
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I couldn't argue for either side, as I'm way too new to this hobby to have any legitimate opinion. I'll be balancing the engine just for peace of mind in the future.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewakessler View Post
So I screwed up. While installing my pistons I wasn't paying attention and forgot to place some tubing over the connecting rod bolts. I ended up gouging my crankshaft.

I used 400 grit sandpaper to remove the edges of the gouge, and placed a bearing over the gouged section of the crankshaft. After spinning the crank a couple times I removed the bearing and there doesn't seem to be any gouging of the bearing. Am I ok to use the crank or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new crank?
The more I look at this the more I think; while not pretty, it's really harmless.

Bogie
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:32 AM
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I agree. The main criteria for a gouge like that is that there's absolutely no high spots.

Balancing is recommended. If you're working w/a factory matched set of rods and crank you can weight-match the pistons to each other along w/matching the rod total and small/big end weights (this is static balancing). Then as long as the rods all go back in the same position as they were originally, the balance will be acceptable for a grocery getter.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
"So are you going to balance your new rotating assembly?"

If you buy the Eagle crank you are!!!!!

I've seen hundreds of stock cranks that have marks in them. As long as the gouge has no high spots, it will not hurt to run it. The low spot will only act as an oil reserve.
Yep. I'd run it.

BB
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:01 PM
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My stock crank has a pit about the size of a grain of rice. Been there since 1973 from the factory. Still runs standard size bearings. Still going strong.

I'd run it too.



Duke
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