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Old 06-23-2013, 07:57 PM
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grease boiling from under dust cap

I've got a 1990 Crown Vic that hadn't moved in some time until today.


Got back from a test run and I had smoke coming from the D/S front wheel well, found grease boiling out from under the dust cap and grease that had been flung all over the rim.


What are some potential causes? I had packed/adjusted the bearings not very long before the car was parked (which was roughly 1.5 years)..the bearings/races/seals/rotors were new at the time.


There aren't many things that can go wrong with tapered roller bearings...I figure:

- too much preload
- too little preload/too much play
- bad/old grease


but I don't know which is a possibility.

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Last edited by 1990ltd; 06-23-2013 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:43 PM
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You can over pack bearings. Maybe a combination of that and and too much preload.

Did you turn the wheel while setting the preload with a torque wrench to spec and then back it off the specified amount? Not turning the wheel can cause a false torque reading.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:58 PM
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Back when I was teaching kids. I had one fellow torque the bearings to ft. lbs. not inch lbs.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:04 PM
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no I can say with great certainty that I didn't use a torque wrench, but I had driven it for a number of miles with no issues before parking it.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:11 PM
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Interesting that you didn't have the problem if you drove it after you replaced them. You need to torque the bearings while turning the hub to "set" the bearings. Then back off the nut to whatever is called out in the manual.

Too tight with wheel bearings is never good and will burn them up in a heartbeat.

Hopefully the bearings didn't get damaged. I would pull everything apart and clean out all the grease. Inspect the bearings after they are cleaned for damage. Re pack them and tighten them to the manufactures specs using high pressure grease specifically designed for wheel bearings.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:42 PM
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Thanks.


I'd adjusted them like every other set I've ever done and I've never had a problem before, just never used a torque wrench - went by feel and how freely the wheels spun.


Either way I'm going to pull it apart and see what happened.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:48 PM
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Jack it up and try to spin the wheel. I would bet that the brake is not releasing.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:51 PM
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Had not even considered that actually. Would make sense since it's been sitting a while.


Thanks for the input everyone! I'll post up what I find.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:26 AM
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my bet is brake clapper sticking, and the rotor getting cherry red, bet it's warped, now. if it isn't you got lucky, you'll still have to inspect and regrease.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990ltd View Post
I've got a 1990 Crown Vic that hadn't moved in some time until today.


Got back from a test run and I had smoke coming from the D/S front wheel well, found grease boiling out from under the dust cap and grease that had been flung all over the rim.


What are some potential causes? I had packed/adjusted the bearings not very long before the car was parked (which was roughly 1.5 years)..the bearings/races/seals/rotors were new at the time.


There aren't many things that can go wrong with tapered roller bearings...I figure:

- too much preload
- too little preload/too much play
- bad/old grease


but I don't know which is a possibility.
If for some reason the caliper/pads were dragging, that'll overheat the rotor to the
point of grease being expelled as you describe.









































+
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:39 PM
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and today the brakes don't seem to be dragging or getting hot. I'm confused but I'd wager it will all make sense once it all comes apart.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64SS327 View Post
You can over pack bearings. Maybe a combination of that and and too much preload.

Did you turn the wheel while setting the preload with a torque wrench to spec and then back it off the specified amount? Not turning the wheel can cause a false torque reading.
Sorry !!!! But you can't over pack a bearing... You are right about to much perload..
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:55 AM
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Rust frozen caliper guide pins!!!

Fords have, since they started using disc brakes, have had a 'problem' with calipers freezing from rust in areas where there is a lot of moisture - rain, snow, humidity - like Nova Scotia. Guide pins being rusted and preventing the pads from retracting are a major cause of parts failure here. These pins need to be lubed with a silicone grease and the rubber covers need to be in place - and if so, those parts will literally last forever.

Now that you have transmitted so much heat to the spindle, bearings and seals, they will need close inspection and possibly replacement - I've been there way too many times.

As far as wheel bearing adjustment - snug the castle nut down to where when rotating the wheel it starts to slow, back off one cotter pin notch then pin it. Yeah, you can use a torque wrench as well, but that is no more accurate
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:58 AM
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Something I've encountered on my old truck that sits alot , collapsed brake hoses , they collapse internally & won't let the fluid return , truck sat overnight & they were fine.. until brakes were applied again .... just something else to look at ..

dave
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990ltd View Post
and today the brakes don't seem to be dragging or getting hot. I'm confused but I'd wager it will all make sense once it all comes apart.
The color of the rotor will tell you if it's been overheated. It'll take on a bluish hue, and will look different from the 'good' side.
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