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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2012, 06:37 AM
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Theres no doubt that full repo 1/4's are better than skins but the fit and sharpness at the top of the full 1/4 isnt as good (trunk jamb and sail panel around rear window) as the old ones so I keep the original top surfaces... so every chance I get I buy the full 1/4's and cut them down to full skins with the (flanged) seam as far up the side as I can go.
I've done so many 1/4s and skinsI have no clue just how many ,hundreds??? and done them every way possible so you can get the skin and spend twice the labor fixing it to make it look right and end up with a 1/4 full of bondo or you can spend more on a full repo 1/4 and save all the labor and end up with a 1/4 that is all steel with little filler (us pros can always tell the difference) cutting down the full 1/4's is so much better than using the full 1/4 its rediculus and if your going to use skins be prepared for a good fight. Its very frustrating tring to fit a skin and the fit really sucks especially around the wheel wells.
So the choice is yours, go with the full 1/4s(trimed down) and have a fairly EZ install or save a few hundred and have a nightmare....at least you'll be pretty good at laying on bondo when your done with the cheapo repos..
BUT before you go out and order anything try finding some really nice used ones from the dryer climate areas ,you'd be surprized whats still out there. getting a "chunk" (the whole corner of the car) is always the "BEST" way and many times the cheapest..if a chunk is available you wouldwant to install it at all the factory seams and not use ANY filler with the exception of the factory seam at the sail panel....
So do it any way you want but remember if you save a little on the parts you'll be spending more than that on labor....

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:14 AM
put up or shut up
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaSS350 View Post
Thanks guys. I was planning on going with skins and you guys seem to agree that's the way to go.
If you do a flanged repair the quarter will need 5/8" more metal under the scribe line. Not sure about all flangers but mine is always 5/8" and when I put that much extra it ends up perfect and then all I have to do is bevel the edge of the skin and it lays down good and flush.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:43 AM
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I think mine is 3/8 but if your measuring all that out heres a little helper..just flange a piece of scrap and use that to mark the 1/4 for cutting it works much faster and no measuring...I know everyone says measure twice and cut once but I say dont measure unless you have too..
Heres another very handy way to clean the backside of the 1/4 from whatever is back there like undercoating etc...the metal has to be cleaned up if you want a good seam,just put a disc on the other side of the backing plate,facing you
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2012, 10:56 AM
I dun learned sumthin
 
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Heres another very handy way to clean the backside of the 1/4 from whatever is back there like undercoating etc...the metal has to be cleaned up if you want a good seam,just put a disc on the other side of the backing plate,facing you
Good tip. Thanks,
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2012, 11:41 AM
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yeah, the grinder one is cool. I'll try that. I usually use a rice patty.
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