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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hduff View Post
Has anybody worked up some "improvements" to the Grizzly benchtop English Wheel? Mine arrived last week.

I've done the Lazze mods to the shrinker/stretcher; it makes a big difference.
I have been wondering if the small anvils on the Grizzly wheel have the flat spots in the center if the wheel. Properly machined wheels have a different radious ground for each wheel with a flat area in the middle that might vary from 1/8 inch for the highest crown to maybe 5/8 for the lowest crown. There purpose is to prevent tracking marks when wheeling a panel.

I have been told that some of the cheaper models do not have the flat areas but do not know for sure if that is the case.

John

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 05:37 PM
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Mine do not. There's a post somwhere on the Internet about how to put the flat spot on them with a belt sander. I thought I bookmarked it, but nope.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hduff View Post
Mine do not. There's a post somwhere on the Internet about how to put the flat spot on them with a belt sander. I thought I bookmarked it, but nope.
I do think you will want to do that. They certainly will work without it but it will be difficult to get a real smooth surface without tracking marks.

John
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:17 PM
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That did not seem to be too difficult as he described it. he also followed it with polishing the anvils to a mirror finish.
It's at
English Wheel

Here's an excerpt:

"This is an easy fix that does not require a lathe - only a decent belt grinder. I have found this English wheel to work perfectly for my needs without these flats on the anvils - so I have not put them on the anvils. For those thinking they need these flats, here is an easy way to do the job. The anvil mounted on its axle is held by the axle ends so that the anvil may freely turn. The only tool required is a belt grinder with a platten. The anvil alxe is held at a 45 degree angle - I always hold the left side higher and the right end lower to create this angle. The other way will work just fine. If you slowly and gently bring the center high spot of the anvil against the belt backed by the platten, you will notice that the anvil will pick up speed. When it is revolving rapidly, apply a little more pressure against the platten. This will slowly and concentrically grind a flat on your anvil to whatever size you think you require. After the flat width is established, move down to the rubber tired drive wheel of the grinder and slowly blend the flat into the curvature already on the anvil. Do this slowly and everything will be concentric. Buff the anvil and you will have the "required" blended in flat. The 2" wide belt I use for this type of work is labeled 150MX and has an angled butt joint on the ends - not an overlapped joint. This prevents a "thump" everytime the joint comes around. This type of belt will give a very smooth finish to the anvil. I am able to go from this belt grinding directly to the sisal wheel charged with emery for a nice prepolish."

I noticed the top wheel is slightly loose in the frame with both side-to-side movement and up and down movement. Any easy solutions for that?

Last edited by hduff; 10-09-2013 at 07:28 PM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hduff View Post
That did not seem to be too difficult as he described it. he also followed it with polishing the anvils to a mirror finish.

I noticed the top wheel is slightly loose in the frame with both side-to-side movement and up and down movement. Any easy solutions for that?
Not unless you wanted to bore it out and install a better bearing. I really do not believe it will be an issue. As long as it does not effect your ability to track accurately it should still produce good results.

John
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I checked with Grizzly, and it was $13 shipping to my address, but I'm only 250 miles from Grizzly. My oldest son works for Grizzly, and I was going to have him pick it up, but as a Wa. resident it would cost him another 7% sales tax that I don't have to pay in Oregon.
I ordered one today also, so I'll see how good it works this winter!
That is a good tax rate, the rest of us Washingtonians get hit for 8.7% =/- a tenth or two .

Last edited by Old Fool; 10-18-2013 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:46 AM
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That is a good tax rate, the rest of us Washingtonians get hit for 8.7% =/- a tenth or two .
I was guessing; guess not very well either!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hduff View Post
Th

I noticed the top wheel is slightly loose in the frame with both side-to-side movement and up and down movement. Any easy solutions for that?
Side to side was easily remidied with some washers sized to a better fit. The up and down slop is in the cradle not the wheel or bearings. What I thought I'd do was to obtain some bushings that had a proper fit on the shaft and ream out the cradle to fit the bushings. Shouldent be to hard.

BB
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:39 AM
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Usually the easy solution to the upper and lower wheels not being in the same plane is to put a cardboard "shim" under one side of the lower anvil to bring the low side up. That way the flat spot on the lower wheel provides even pressure against the upper flat anvil.

I suspect that if the Grizzly wheel is not machined with flat spots it probably is not very important. The contact area is going to be the same regardless.

John
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-12-2013, 11:53 AM
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Anyone have updates? Mines still on B/O.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2013, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Not unless you wanted to bore it out and install a better bearing. I really do not believe it will be an issue. As long as it does not effect your ability to track accurately it should still produce good results.

John
I did that with mine, I haven't used it enough to know how well it worked but the wheel it's self looks good.

Brian
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2013, 09:05 AM
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Haven't really used mine much yet. Played with it enough to figure out the carrier for the lower wheel was not true, so I got the Dremel out and cured that.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:16 PM
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Mines still on B/O.
Dang it! Grizzly postcard saying it will be longer than originally thought.
Funny timing.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2013, 12:08 PM
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Jan. 23rd current ETA.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2013, 09:21 PM
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thanks for this thread! I just ordered mine tonight. I still have to get a planishing hammer and two stands anyways(one for the bead roller) so that gives me some time to get some stuff.
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