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Old 07-18-2011, 09:40 AM
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Ground strap or ground wire?

I need 3 ground straps or wires for my car.

Firewall to left side of engine
Firewall to right side of engine
Firewall to frame

Should I use a strap or can I use a wire like 8 gauge?
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:43 AM
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the straps are woven and will not break like a solid wire will under the stress of vibration. your choice..

Sam
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalaman63
I need 3 ground straps or wires for my car.

Firewall to left side of engine
Firewall to right side of engine
Firewall to frame

Should I use a strap or can I use a wire like 8 gauge?
I feel 8 gauge isn't really large enough. Ground straps are great- if you can find them long enough, and they have the right terminals and if they don't cost too much.

Here's a tip: Any parts store will carry battery cables in the 4 gauge range that have an eye on both ends- these can be used as ground straps to the chassis and firewall, etc.

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Old 07-18-2011, 04:16 PM
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8 gage will work just fine, so will the SS braiding kits loom covers, I soldered on 8 gage solid copper terminals on the braided loom covering and it's worked very well and looks cool too.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:48 PM
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i would think that 8 gauge would be big enough, but bigger is better.
those batt. cables are pretty cheap and all made up all ready.
why one to each side of the motor?
i would go frame to engine, frame to firewall, and engine to firewall
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:25 AM
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I base my recommendation on the ability of any one ground cable alone to be capable of allowing the starter motor to crank the engine. Some might consider this overkill, I look at it as cheap insurance.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:14 AM
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Well, the electrical system is NOT a - "lets see what cables i have left over to use here".
The cable-size on the possetive side, is used on the negative side in the system.
Else, you will create resistance, wich is equal to heat, wich is equal to power drop.

And, you cant have to many of ground cables.
Ground frame-engine-body together.
(inner-fender/fender/front is not a ground point)

And, dont forget the generator/alternator! It is also a part of the system that needs a ground cable. There is a threded hole for that purpose in the back of the unit.
Some people ground it through the painted bracket...
- The generator/alternator is what supply the car with electricity, and should be properly grounded as well. (to the engine is okay)

The size of cables is decided by the Amp/watt of consumers - and lenght of the cable.
And it applyed everywhere in the system.
Look at every power consumer as a circuit: 21w lamp - leght of cable from possetive to negative = cable size .
If the car uses a steel body, the body is normaly the negative some distance.
Like this: http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html


Hope that helped some...

Regards
/Pete
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:37 AM
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The Strap kits aren't that expensive>> http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isc...&aqi=&aql=&oq=
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:54 AM
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If you run a 00 or 4 gage from the neg batt terminal to the engine block (the premade cables you can buy at any parts store), that will handle the starter load, 8 gage from the engine block to the fire wall/body and the frame rail will handle all the other elec load ( radio, lights etc...) unless you are running a welder in the trunl....lol
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:04 AM
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I have several. The battery 2ga negative is bolted directly to the engine. Then there is a 1 plus inch wide woven strap to the frame and a second to the body. The ends that are to the frame and body are attached with brass bolts. I also used dielectric compound to help prevent corrosion along with star lock washers. The gauge, lights and control wiring has several separate grounds as well, directly to the body reinforcing steel that's welded and/or bolted in to the steel body shell. You can, IMO, never have too many grounds even with a steel body car.
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:36 AM
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matts37chev Why one to each side of the motor?

That's the way Chevrolet setup a stock 1963 Impala in 1963.
I like your way better -- go frame to engine, frame to firewall, and engine to firewall
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I have several. The battery 2ga negative is bolted directly to the engine. Then there is a 1 plus inch wide woven strap to the frame and a second to the body. The ends that are to the frame and body are attached with brass bolts. I also used dielectric compound to help prevent corrosion along with star lock washers. The gauge, lights and control wiring has several separate grounds as well, directly to the body reinforcing steel that's welded and/or bolted in to the steel body shell. You can, IMO, never have too many grounds even with a steel body car.
IMO, no truer words have been spoken regarding an automotive electrical system.

Back when that Chevy was new (if we're dealing w/a '63 Impala), it ran a points-type ignition system and a very low output charging system that included an external voltage regulator along w/a long, small wire run to a "horn relay" junction point. The wiring was sized for the application at hand, and was marginal even then. The wiring in these older cars certainly isn't up to what's required for today's HEI/MSD-type ignition systems and not for the higher current demands imposed by modern stereo systems and other add-ons that would also make a higher output alternator a VERY appealing addition- which would be high on my list of things to do unless this is an original restoration, as there have been great strides in charging systems and battery output since that car was new.

In light of this, IMO there just isn't a good argument for not using larger than stock- and more quantity than stock- grounds. Included w/this would be a larger than stock charging wire from the alternator- especially if it has been upgraded to an internally regulated, higher-output alternator like an SI/CS/AD series unit.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:00 AM
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If the factorys had buit a car that was perfect in every aspect, we had not been able to afford it.
There have also been too much regulations during the years that builders had to cope with, not only material cost savings.

So, don't go into what "they" built, look at what you got.

If they built it with a 8-awg, and normal rules says somthing else, like 4-awg, stick to the normal rules and you will be fine.

Regards
/Pete
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