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-   -   Grounding (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/grounding-227595.html)

rustman 12-26-2012 12:38 PM

Grounding
 
I have a 36 Ford pickup and have completed installation of the wiring kit. What I need to know now is how to properly ground it. I have the battery mounted between the bottom of the bed and the frame. I have the ground cable running from the battery to a shutoff switch that is mounted in the floor of the cab and then from the switch to the frame. If I do have to run a ground from the battery to the engine will a heavy gauge wire (maybe a #10) due instead of a full size cable?
Also, my battery is an Optima which lays on it's side and I use the connections with the female threads to hook up my trikle charger to. The threads are stripping out. Has anyone used Helacoils to fix this problem? Thanks.

NEW INTERIORS 12-26-2012 01:03 PM

When I set my cars up with the batery in the back.. I weld a bolt on the frame by the battery and one by the motor.. I then run a ground to the frame from the batery, Then run a ground to the motor and cab from the front bolt..I then run a hot from the battery to the battery kill switch mounted as close to the battery as you can then from there to the starter.. (chevy)

Doing it this way, Makes the whole frame a ground..

delawarebill 12-26-2012 01:08 PM

grounds
 
i don't see a problem with helicoils, but i'd rather see and SS bolt welded to the frame. i've used this several times with no problems. i'm also not big on that sw on the ground cable, i'd be on the + side and kill the battery for everything and run grounds from engine to frame and put in a ground block under dash to use for gages.. just make sure the engine ground is lg nuff. u can get away with a #10 on the dash grounds. of course ground the battery to the frame where its at.. also make sure frame to body is grounded.... grounds everywhere ain't gonna hurt nut'n.
also don't the optima bat's need another (regular) battery in paralleled to be able to charge it ????

Oldguy48 12-26-2012 01:21 PM

Since the starter is the one component that will require the most current to operate, I'd use a heavy gauge cable from the engine to the frame. Heavy as in 0 gauge or heavier. Bigger is better, size does matter. The best method is to run a heavy gauge ground from the battery (or in your case, the switch) directly to the engine, but as long as your connections to the frame are clean and tight, you should be OK. A #10 wire is only rated for 30 amps, and the starter could draw several hundred amps when you crank er' over. And you can't have too many grounds in your car's electrical system. Ground the body to the frame in a couple of places, and engine to the frame and use star washers between the terminal and the frame. They'll bite into the metal and provide a better connection. You could always install a heavy cable directly from the engine to your disconnect switch (ground) later if you need to. Let us know what you do, and how it worked out for you.


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