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Old 12-10-2009, 09:12 AM
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Guage Wire to Remotely Relocate Battery?

I searched thru the archives and either couldn't spell or have had too much coffee but I couldn't find my answer; therefore, I'm asking anyway. I'm trying to relocate the battery to the rear of my pickup and want to know if this wire is heavy enough to do the job or not. The printing on the cable reads "Custom Pro 4 Gauge- High Voltage - High Current- Power Cable". Please excuse my ignorance if this should be a no-brainer; however, electrical isn't where I like to take chances! Thanks!

If this is a major then PLEASE say so!

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Old 12-10-2009, 10:07 AM
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Read this it will help you. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=3207297 . All you have to do is do a search on here and you should find what you need .

Cole
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:23 PM
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Nothing smaller than 1/0 awg is the standard.

Vince
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:01 PM
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There is a wire size calculator for 12v systems here:

http://beta.circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

You put in the information for current draw, length needed, allowable voltage drop and a couple of other variables. It will tell you the size wire needed.

It is a beta program, but looks pretty close.

No need to download the program. It is an online application.

Maximum current draw of a starter is between 100 and 200 amps. That information was from another website.

If headlights are on it would be more. Just to be safe I'd plug in 200 amp draw.

Bob
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:39 PM
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Thanks Vince, I called O'Reilly's Automotive and that's the gauge they carry as well. I just had a nice 14' long piece of the 4 gauge and thought I could make use of it!

Cole, I clicked on your link but it didn't link me to anything

Bob, I tried the website, pretty cool, must've had a slow connection as it never did give me a completed response after I punched in the 200 Amps, etc....Thanks for the referral. I'll keep that site bookmarked!.

L8R Guys - Tim
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:54 PM
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I got my wire from McMaster Carr. It is Marine fine strand that is like welding cable and carries more amperage than traditional cable. I would be little suspect getting the cable from Orielly's as it is probably offshore and has inferior PVC insulation..

Vince
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Old 12-10-2009, 06:50 PM
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My preference is the same cable 1 ga. that is used as the ground lead found on the miller welders nice fine stranded and flexible, .
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:30 AM
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Remote battery Relocation - DONE

Thanks for the advice fellas! I ended up going with some 1ga. wire and ran it to the rear of the pickup. Then I used the former battery mounting apparatus from my '49 Chevy pickup as the tray. Painted it, tapped in some 5/16" bolts, and now have one more project DONE!

I still have Bed Hinges to fabricate, and they will be welded in near the bare frame area, thus the reason for not finishing out the paint job on the frame.....more to do! Have a Great Weekend!
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:26 PM
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Looks nice!
Don't forget to ground the engine, bed and body to the frame and to each other..

Bob
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:33 PM
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Get us some pictures and show what you are doing!!!

As far as wire gauge, I used Taylor 1 ga, but as Vince said, 1/0 would have been better - but the regular stuf is a bear to work with.

Dave W
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:28 PM
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Grounding

I ran a heavy 12 or 14 ga. wire from the Altenator bracket to the frame, to ground the engine, and another ground wire leading from the front on the firewall to the frame and.....the bed will be attached to tilt brackets with steel bushings and bolts. I would think that would ground the bed sufficiently won't it? Let me know if I'm missing something here. Thanks for all the comments and opinions.
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icsmannn
I ran a heavy 12 or 14 ga. wire from the Altenator bracket to the frame, to ground the engine, and another ground wire leading from the front on the firewall to the frame and.....the bed will be attached to tilt brackets with steel bushings and bolts. I would think that would ground the bed sufficiently won't it? Let me know if I'm missing something here. Thanks for all the comments and opinions.
I used two heavy braided ground straps, one from the engine to the chassis and a second from the engine to the steel body as well as a 1 ga from the battery direct to the engine. What you ran to my way of thinking is NOT enough. While others may disagree, IMO, your grounding run(s) to the chassis/body should at least equal the battery ground to the engine.
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Old 12-12-2009, 05:17 PM
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There is an old saying "Round don't ground" use heavy braided strap if possible. I think that is more for an RF ground, but may apply equally well to electrical grounds.

Bob
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:38 PM
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The absolute best way is to run a 1/0 ground conductor from the rear mounted battery straight to the engine block. Then ground the engine to the frame, the body to the frame and the - terminal of the battery to the frame. That way you are insured of a very good ground path for your starter motor and the cars electrics that does not specifically rely on the frame.

Vince
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:11 AM
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WOW, didn't realize there was that much importance to the grounding issue. Thanks for all the advice and share experiences.
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