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-   -   Guidelines for body restoration? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/guidelines-body-restoration-980.html)

unstable 02-18-2003 09:17 AM

Guidelines for body restoration?
 
My truck came with 20 gallons of body-filler applied, under several coats of finish. I had several of the panels blasted and primed/sealed so I could get an idea of where I really stood with the metal...problem is, it's re-rusting on me.

What's the best way to keep your panels in good shape while you're working on them? Does a little surface rust matter that much when you're knocking out dents?

After I've completed knocking out the dents on the panels--and filling..what should I do to prep for paint?

I've done alot of reading, just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on this. My metal will probably sit for awhile before I'm ready to have it finished, so what can I do to prevent it from rerusting?

willys36@aol.com 02-18-2003 09:37 AM

Get some Rust EN-M-ME or similar product from your paint supplier. The ones I have seen are a blue color like Windex. It is a phosphoric acid based liquid which will pickle the steel and kill any minor rust that has built up and help prevent future rust until you are ready to paint. Stuff is ACID so use rubber gloves and don't drip on concrete for obvious reasons.

unstable 02-18-2003 10:23 AM

I tried using some BS product in an aerosol can that turns rust to black primer/sandable surface. I stripped by doors down to nothing, cleaned the doors really good and applied this crap and they were looking pretty nice...the next day the crap started peeling off!

I just need something that I can put on that will be workable--where I won't need to strip it off when I am ready to finish.--thanks for the input bro.

Dragon J 02-18-2003 01:01 PM

When I've worked on cars here in the 'Rust Belt'- we have average humidity of 65-95 per cent- I have a problem with rusting work- the stuff willys36 spoke of is great, but if you do any fill you shouldn't use it- I just rattle can some flat black enamel on areas I have worked with welding and fill/putty and they can be easily knocked down later when you're ready for final fill, primer, etc. Remember primer is not 'water proof' unless you use catylized stuff- and not cheap to just sand off again!! The cheap paint will seal it well but can be easily quick sanded with fine grit before your final finish work- hope it helps.


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