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-   -   Gun selection for shooting high solids clear (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/gun-selection-shooting-high-solids-clear-209595.html)

67Elcamino 11-30-2011 12:23 PM

Gun selection for shooting high solids clear
 
Have attempted to shoot SPI universal clear with a Finex 3000 gun with no luck. Just cant seem to get it to shoot without heavy orange peel just cant get the gun to mist smooth enough. Im sorry if im not usingbthe correct terminology but im just a DIY beginner. I shot a test panel with my Finishline and was satisfied with it but dedicating that gun for my metalic base. I was thinking of upgrading and looking at some guns and eanted your opinion. I want to just get advise on only these guns as i have found people selling these at an affordable price for me. Given that SPI recommends a 1.4 tip for their clear;

- satajet 2000
- satajet 90-2
- satajet 90
or the purple Harbor Freight gun

The part that I find strange is that I was using. Coleman $10 gun with a 1.4 tip and was shooting beautifully . Shot epoxy primer and was laying perfectly smooth. Wanted to try to shoot the clear with it to test.

Basically i wanted to know the diffetence between these 3 sata guns and ant experience anyone has using any of these 3 or 4 guns with the SPI clear

swvalcon 11-30-2011 12:30 PM

I had the same thing with one of my cheaper guns. Try thinning it out with some good grade urethane reducer. I've used up to 50% with no problems.

Old Fool 11-30-2011 04:38 PM

I have a Finex 300 1.4 and it shoots DCU 2002 clear quite well. Never tried the Finex 3000 to know how it is.

30 psi inlet, fluid wide open, fan correctly adjusted, blow and go is how I sprayed it.

HVAC Phil 12-01-2011 03:42 AM

I use a devilbiss plus gun, lays it slick and smooth.

FRANKBULLITT 12-01-2011 08:23 PM

Ive used it and my set up is a sata jet 2000 1.3 and it lays down smooth as a mirror. Just got to tune it like a guitar for best finish.

rsfyj 12-01-2011 08:56 PM

Binks #7
 
I used a Binks # 7 on everything i spray including insectacides.

deadbodyman 12-02-2011 07:25 AM

Any one of those Satas will work great for you with SPI clear,the problem is buying one of them used ,the cost to rebuild them is about as much as a new one.You really have to know your guns to buy one used so your not buying an old wore out gun ....I wouldnt reduce the SPI clear at all ,1:1 thats it...I have my Sata ajusted wide open and held about 3=4" from the surface...You may be moving too fast also try slowing it down ,raising the pressure and look at whats happining it should be like glass from the git go...Dont forget lots of light ,the more the better...

cyclopsblown34 12-02-2011 08:04 AM

I spray it the same through all my Sata guns NR95 1.3tip, RP and 3000RP digital both with 1.4 tip. I bought the two NR guns used each for less than 300.00 and just replaced the air distribution ring in both. I've been spraying through the digital at about 18PSI on the digital Adam on it. i turn the fluid nozzle all the way in and test on a piece of brown kraft paper or paper grocery bag taped to the wall. I turn the adjustment out 1/2 turn at a time til it runs after 30 seconds and then adjust the pressure up a little til it quits running. Always allow at least 30 seconds after you release the trigger to see how the clear is going to lay out smooth or runs. if you open the material nozzle up much more, you'll end up with peel usually, of course a painter way better than I can compensate for that and lay it out slick with most any decent gun. Brian Martin and Barry Kive's tips have helped me with getting a way better finish than I ever had before. I never reduce my clear and prefer to spray the SPI universal with the appropriate activator for the temperature.

swvalcon 12-02-2011 03:06 PM

I talked to Berry before reduceing his clear and he said it would have no ill affects. I still put down the same mils however. If I would put on 2 coats of 1-1 clear I go 3 coats if it's reduced. It just seems to lay down better for me if I reduce it. 99% of what i do gets sanded and buffed anyway I just dont have to sand as much to get it flat.Most custom completes get sanded and recleared before it's buffed.

67Elcamino 12-02-2011 03:58 PM

Yeah, what I was trying to avoid is having to sand the clear to get all of the peel off. Im going to try shooting over some test panels and playing with the gun. I seem to try to play with the gun settings just before I lay it on the car.
Going to try some reduced and some non-reduced. Im assuming if its reduced Its going to be harder to keep the clear from running??

Gonna stick with my Finishline III 1.4 tip and just adjust adjust adjust to get the preferred pattern

HVAC Phil 12-03-2011 04:01 AM

It's gonna run easier if you reduce it. Just keep trying to adjust the gun. If you are having alot of orange peel, turn fluid knob on gun out more. Also, maybe try slowing down your passes with the gun.

deadbodyman 12-03-2011 06:04 AM

The best advice I can give to a new painter is: REDUCE THE VARIABLES,the fewer variables ,the less chance of something going wrong....
Before you start make sure the gun is clean......get comfortable taking it completely apart and putting it back together....
get into the habit of poking a tooth pick through the vent hole every time you use it.
Gun adjustments.....
set your fan as wide as it can go and leave it there.
set your fluid all the way open and leave it there.
This will eliminate all the variables with the gun and
what this will do is make you learn how to feather the trigger to get less fluid
The material being sprayed:
Use the recomended ratio ,playing around with the ratio can cause more problems and you should wait until you have some more experiance before trying this...
If you eliminate the variables with the gun and the material your spraying the only other posibility of a problem is with the WAY your spraying ,the way you move ,the speed you move at ,how close you are to the surface and how well you can feather the trigger at the end of a panel or arms travel, over laps (a double coat) are mostly where you get your runs ....
Practice your technique thats enough to make you crazy without all the other stuff like worry about and dont think you'll be able to paint like a pro right out of the gate, painting is 95% technique thats what you need to concentrate on.....keep it simple ....

67Elcamino 12-03-2011 08:27 AM

Thank You Deadbodyman I will take and apply your advise... Thank god my wife only sees the outside of the garage and not notice my practice panels on the inside of my garage door.. LOL

deadbodyman 12-03-2011 09:11 AM

Theres no women allowed in the man cave...........unless they bring beer..
Do you know any painters you can watch ?? I've seen some good vids on you tube .... I just cant imagine how hard it would be to learn this without watching a real painter.Without watching and having someone there to show you I'd have to say it would also be an expensive way to learn.Something that might help is going to the paint store and buying some SS paint that was a the wrong color or mixed and never picked up you can get some great deals on good paint...I sent my friend down and he picked up gal of paint for 20.00 worth about 150.00... SS sprays a lot like clear since clear is a SS too..Think of clear as SS paint without any color...

Lizer 12-03-2011 11:36 AM

Camino, I took some paint and body classes at a local tech college which helped me out immensely. We beat and mudded metal everynight or sprayed, depending on the class. I don't know how I'd be doing it now without taking that class.


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