[cxpcman]

im applying a two tone job with yellow top and black at the bottom but i want a separation line with the Tangerine h o k this is the efect i want to get:



or this one that is more yellow but i don't know how it's called:
http://www.camaro.com/wordpress/wp-c...27622992_m.jpg

the question is how to get that result ? is my first try with that paint and all that pearl-candy-basecoat-shimrinbase, confuse me badly, somebody can jump in with some help ?

[milo]

There is a color that is a plain 2 stage factory color that would be MUCH easier to handle that looks just like that ...
It's Code PVE for Chrysler...It needs a light base to start but then it will get it done in a few WORKABLE coats instead of the hard way ...



Here's a link for more on the project
http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=3792

[lbell101]

There's a 2 stage HOK that does that too. Look at the PBC and KBC series which are just one step before clear. Possibly PBC32.

Larry

[importguru]

Someone mentioned PBC32, which you can probably get away with as the base, you could also use KBC08 over a light silver base, this is the method I personally prefere doing myself, KBC08 looks extremely nice over FBC08, which is an orange metallic or if your comfortable using a non-hok as a base have valspar mix up a batch of 06' audi light silver metallic.... this is my fav. HOK is valspar btw, and ive never had a problem with spraying over it. good luck and hope your project comes to life.

[cxpcman]

thnks for the answers . well im using valspar for undercoating epoxy & 2k primer,i just need to block and paint .. i dont care spraying more than once , just need to know how with this products. it seem like i need to practice with some combos before the big job. .im reading the literature about the products ou posted to see how they work ... by the way any ideas of te yellow color ?

[importguru]

Yellow is a hard choice for anyone for anyone to recomend, especially when thet yellow is being offset with another color. My personal favorite yellow is chrome yellow, but having it offset with a black might not look so good as chrome yellow is extremely bright, on the other hand a hue like canary yellow is kind of "blah" on color. I did a 68' Coronet a few years back and chose a 1977 Corvette yellow, that color looked great being offset by the black bumble bee stripes and the black vinyl convertible top. Maybe that color is one to look into? Remember when using yellows to use a light sealer or base, yellow is one of those colors that doesn't cover very well, dont be suprised if you have to apply 4 or 5 coats. Any more thoughts or concerns feel free to ask. good luck!

[baddbob]

Larry sells HOK and Valspar so I'm sure he's been around these colors before. The regular basecoat system would be my choice for fewer coats and less of a film build and better repairability especially if the color is only being used to seperate/stripe two main colors.

If you have to go the candy route I'd definately do the silver and orange first then mask it off for the yellow and black, this will give you cleaner tape lines and less of an edge to burry in clear.

[lbell101]

I'm thinking PBC30 on the yellow.
How does it work down in Mexico? Can you
go to your local HOK jobber to see the chipbook?
Or do you have to roadtrip north to get the paint
and see the chips?

Larry

[cxpcman]

Originally Posted by lbell101

I'm thinking PBC30 on the yellow.
How does it work down in Mexico? Can you
go to your local HOK jobber to see the chipbook?
Or do you have to roadtrip north to get the paint
and see the chips?
Larry

Im lucky to live at the north border of Mexico so i can get the stuff from US or Mexico i got an aprtment in US also.
there are 4 jobbers here in mexico that handle the dupont line .. Not all of the products but a good part of it , i get my basecoats there. i have tryed sherwin williams and other brands, but dupont and nason serve me well for allmost all my needs and not as expensive as the ppg-omni lines. for clearcoats i like to use dupont over the other brands but i already try SPI and seem to be great so i will be using their clear from now on. they ship to my addres in calexico, CA. and Carquest in southCal is my source for undercoatings, i use Valspar epoxy and 2k . Valspar got very good products at a good price, base-clearcoats are nice but its 30 minutes from my house so i don't have the time to go often because of work.
all of the jobbers got chip books but for me is really hard to choose a color with those .. i need to get a complete image of the paint with the curves, light reflection and shadows to see if i like it.

[importguru]

I just wanted to mention, if you plan to use lower line Dupont or PPG paints such as Nason or Omni be careful, sure you can paint the whole thing for a couple hundred bucks but be prepared for the future. Say for instance in as little as six months after shes back on the road someone bumps into you or you back into a pole or something that base you started with will almost definately not match for a repair, neither of the lower line paints mentioned are a universal mixing system. Heat such as in Mexico and So-Cal does a real job on any paint, but in lower lines you will definately notice a difference sooner. I'm not trying to be a jackhole or anything, but I've had numerous people bring me their whips to fix their "oops", weather its a Maaco special thats six months old or OEM thats a few years old its almost never a perfect match, Omni from my experience has less problems than Nason but neither match perfect. Unless this ride is going to be garage kept and trailered to car shows you might want to consider something with a little more life to it. If you don't want a huge investment try DBU or Lesonal if it's available in your area.

[cxpcman]

Originally Posted by importguru

I just wanted to mention, if you plan to use lower line Dupont or PPG paints such as Nason or Omni be careful, sure you can paint the whole thing for a couple hundred bucks but be prepared for the future. Say for instance in as little as six months after shes back on the road someone bumps into you or you back into a pole or something that base you started with will almost definately not match for a repair, neither of the lower line paints mentioned are a universal mixing system. Heat such as in Mexico and So-Cal does a real job on any paint, but in lower lines you will definately notice a difference sooner. I'm not trying to be a jackhole or anything, but I've had numerous people bring me their whips to fix their "oops", weather its a Maaco special thats six months old or OEM thats a few years old its almost never a perfect match, Omni from my experience has less problems than Nason but neither match perfect. Unless this ride is going to be garage kept and trailered to car shows you might want to consider something with a little more life to it. If you don't want a huge investment try DBU or Lesonal if it's available in your area.

Thnks for the advice .im not an expert painting cars but i for sure notice some differences between dupont vs. nason and ppg vs omni . In summer the paint takes around 120 farenheit under the sun and i notice that nason clearcoat tends to go the yellow side a little bit more than the omni brand, it was applyed as stated in the tech sheet, correct temperature and flash times , i try to use them just when low budget repairs are needed but i get really good results with them for the price ..

For my next project im using valspar undercoating and Dupont for basecoat i also will be using spi clearcoat and try to use HOK for the first time, im not trying to go cheap cause is a project that already takes 1.5 years of my life and want go the correct way. i will look for the dbu and lesonal brands you mention and for sure i will give them a try to see how they work, im still learning this autobody painting art.

[cxpcman]

Originally Posted by baddbob

Larry sells HOK and Valspar so I'm sure he's been around these colors before. The regular basecoat system would be my choice for fewer coats and less of a film build and better repairability especially if the color is only being used to seperate/stripe two main colors.

If you have to go the candy route I'd definately do the silver and orange first then mask it off for the yellow and black, this will give you cleaner tape lines and less of an edge to burry in clear.

definitely i will paint the strip first then tape and then the other 2 colors .. every time i think about it that seem to be the best way for me .

Importguru mention the pbc30 sunrise yellow and pbc32 tangelo. and thinking about it ..it seem to be a good combo instead of the millenium yellow.
White basecoat -then pbc32-then tape-then pbc30 sound right ?


btw i visit carquest and they got this mini-cars painted with hok and i see the lemon and the chrome yellow and they are too bright as Importguru mention . but they don't have the sample for pbc30 that seem to be just right for my application . ohh and they got tangelo.. it's very orange but looks very good.

[mrcleanr6]

you will definately want to do the seperation line first. if you want tangerine candy then do tangerine candy. its really no big deal to do. just do it in basecoats. when i do tangerine candy i usually like zenith gold under it. looks a little nicer. spray your zenith gold in the stripe area then mix some kk08 into some neutral base, spray, let dry then mask off the stripe and do the top and bottome colors.

[milo]

Be sure to get a look at this thread that talks about the ups and downs of the animal. don't rush things or it will get interesting fast PPGs DBU won't intereact/wrinkel...HOK Orion Silver... wrinkles... always. Why?

[Slickriffs]

is HOK an urethane enamel?

Thanks,

Keith