harbor freight bandsaw feed rate - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Garage - Tools
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2004, 10:26 AM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
harbor freight bandsaw feed rate

Question for Willys, qctech, or any other owner of a Harbor Freight metal cutting bandsaw. How do you set the torsion on the spring that controls the feed rate of the blade? The directions just say "not too tight", "not too loose". So how do you know what the correct spring pressure is? Maybe if you just gave me the approximate time it takes you to cut a piece of 2X3 rec. tube (cold rolled, .125 wall) or some similar guideline I can go by. I have no idea if I have this thing running at the right pressure.

Dewey

    Advertisement
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2004, 11:22 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,371
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 150 Times in 142 Posts
My Take

Dewey

On this it is a bit of an "experiment" if the cut is clean and square you are fine..just start with slow feed rate and then bring it up a bit..if the tool starts to jam or the blade walks out on you then the feed rate needs to be slowed down a bit..

Watch for heating..if the feed rate is too fast the blade will overheat.. Seeing smoke is a good clue..The blade should be cutting not wearing its way through the metal..

Feed rates will vary somewhat depending on the thickness of the metal..When you have made some cuts then you will get the hang of setting a feed rate..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2004, 12:18 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
No smoke, no binding, the blade seem to be running true, and it is not that hot after I finish a cut. So actually I'm a little worried it's "wearing" not "cutting" through the metal. I'm cutting 2x3 rec. tubing, .125 wall, and I'm cutting it diagonally at a 30 degree angle. These cuts are taking an average of about 15 minutes each. Does that sound in the ballpark?
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2004, 12:25 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,371
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 150 Times in 142 Posts
Seems a bit slow

You may wish to try balde that is about 14 teeth per inch..may be the blade you have is a bit too fine..??? Inspect your balde to see if you have good teeth on it..wearing the metal gives a blade that has no teeth left..I do not think that you have too much concern here..I would not as long as I am getting a good cut..
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2004, 12:39 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks OMT.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 09:50 AM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
or Jeff, or Doc, or...
 

Last journal entry: Results of the Camaro
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Syracuse, NY-well, just North
Age: 51
Posts: 988
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
As long as the blade isn't getting hot, your OK. Hot blades indicate too fast of a feed or worn teeth. Kind of a quick test that I use, is spray the blade with a lubricant. If it smokes , your too fast or dull. 14 TPI sounds right for .125. Should cut it in about 1 minute or less. The top and bottom may take the most time, but when it hits the sidewalls, it should drop right through.

Also, look at where the blade is welded. Make sure that the weld is ground flush or slightly ground in. If not, it will make the blade catch, skip and start bouncing. This will end up ripping teeth off and trashing a good blade. Not sure of the quaality of a H/F blade, but I use Noton Bi-metals on my bandsaw. Lasts forever.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 11:34 AM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Whoa, I'm nowhere near one minute. More like 15 minutes. Also, I now have almost NO tension on the spring that controls the rate of the cutting head. I'd actually have to hang some extra weight on the end of the head to get it to apply more pressure at the blade.

Also, I've been checking my more recent cuts and I AM getting some fairly inaccurate cuts. The blade seems to not be dropping at exactly a 90 degree angle to the base of the machine (the vice/bed which holds the stock). As a result, the bottom of the cuts are all about 1/32 to 1/16" shorter than the top of the cut. Since the head is permanently hinged to the base there doesn't appear to be any sort of adjustment for this. Any thoughts?
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 11:59 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
You MUST lube the blade continuously during a cut, especially on the fairly big stuff that you are doing. I keep a squirt can of 30W near my saw and keep the blade dripping the whole cut. Your description of slow cut rate and blade drift are classic signs of a dull blade. Change it, then lube it.

I have always used HF blades and get reasonable run time out of them but nothing like Beenaway is getting with the name brand ones. I guess I'll try a Norton next time to see if it lasts better.

Point is, a sharp blade with the proper tooth pitch that is well lubed should make quick, accurate cuts for a long time.

Haven't really paid much attention to spring tension. I guess I keep it pretty light. As stated by others above, a sharp blade with aggressive enough teeth will virtually eat its way thru the steel and seem to suck itself thru the thin walls of a tube.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 01:45 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 69
Posts: 7,371
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 47
Thanked 150 Times in 142 Posts
Ok now I;m determined

Cboy,
Run the head of the saw to the top of its travel and set your machinsts square against the blade..

Scribe a mark on the bed of the saw where the machinsts square lands..then lower the head of the saw till the blade contacts the bed and place the machists square again against the blade..the blade should come down and hit exactly on the mark..Do this with a new blade in the saw..if the saw is not coming down straight then I dunno..

Now do a trial run on a piece of scrap..bring the tension on the blade up to a point where you have very little deflection when you push on the side of the blade with your finger..

Having to hang a bit of weight on the head of the saw may be needed to put some downforce on the blade..

Mkake yourself a drip bottle using a hdwre store valve..(little needle valve) and a piece of copper tubing arranged so that you can drip lube on the blade..

Now after doing all this and it still does not work..well dunno what to say here..???
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 05:27 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I don't think this is a case of "drift" caused by a dull blade. After some more careful inspection, based on OneMoreTime's suggestion, it is clear the blade does not travel at a 90 degree angle to the bed - even when there is nothing being cut. When I put a square on the bed (where the stock is placed) and lift the saw head, I can see that the blade runs out about 1/8th of an inch from the edge of the square at about 5-6 inches above the bed. When the blade is all the way down at the base it touches the edge of the square. As I lift it I can clearly see it running out further and further from the square.

Willys, could you do me a favor and check your saw the same way...lay one edge of a carpenter's square across the bed and the other edge parallel with the blade. Then lift the head up about 6-8 inches. I'm assuming your blade will run true right along the edge of the carpenters square. Since I don't see any way possible that I can adjust how the head (blade) travels in relation to the base, I've got to think there is something amiss with how this particular unit was machined or put together. Let me know if you think there is some adjustment on your saw that I could try to make on mine.

Dewey
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 06:33 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,388
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Maybe you got a bad one. Mine has a run-out of about the thickness of the blade @ 5" above the bed. My experience is that I get very acceptable squareness in my cuts until my blade starts getting dull when it starts to travel severely in one direction.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 06:38 PM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 4,974
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 89 Times in 72 Posts
Feed rate is determined by the shape of the swarf or "cuttings", you should have nice "curly cues" or figure 9 shaped chips. Tooth pitch is the most important factor when selecting a blade for a bandsaw, you should have three teeth in contact at all times or you risk breaking teeth off, too many teeth in contact raises the pressure needed to effect a cut and also means they will plug up with chips causing increased friction and possibly chip "welding" in the gullet of the tooth.

Here's a good article for reference.
__________________
Outlawed tunes from outlawed pipes
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 08:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Long island, NY
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
bandsaw

Dewey,

I had to play around a bit with my saw but the best thing I did was scrap that hf blade and install a starret from grainger.Works like a charm now. My suggestion to you is check this link out , some real great ideas, hope this helps.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6ban...yguid=77308368

Anthony
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2004, 08:49 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,918
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by willys36@aol.com
Mine has a run-out of about the thickness of the blade @ 5" above the bed.
So at least we know the "run out" in my saw is not common to them all. What you are describing sounds like less than 1/32" in 5" of travel. Mine is more on the order of 1/8" in 4 inches of travel. I just don't think this is a "blade" or "sharpness" issue - particularly when the run out is visible with no workpiece even in the machine.

I just got through emailing H.F. Customer Service to describe the problem. We'll see if they have a solution.

BTW, thanks for the heads up regarding constant lubrication of the blade. Nothing at all in the manual about doing that. I'll have to rig up some sort of drip system.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2004, 02:35 AM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 4,974
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 89 Times in 72 Posts
You need to set the guide blocks closer to the blade, lightly touching is about right. If yours are rollers the same applies.
__________________
Outlawed tunes from outlawed pipes
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Garage - Tools posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.