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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2005, 09:37 PM
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I would much rather have that.

The foot or finger control is nice. With it you can control your heat to get your puddle established and peter it out at the end as well as adjust along the way. Its really the way to go.

The coolant setup is nice for a couple reasons. First the torch gets HOT if you dont have it, but more importantly they run the power wire through the coolant line to the torch so your cable is much more flexible and the torch is much smaller. So the whole setup is easier to handle.

??? On the amps. That seems way high. I cant imagine that is right

Rich

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Old 08-17-2005, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumbleseat
Don't be soured on Lincoln. Maybe you got a lemon. I've had a 125 mig for about nine years and never had a bit of trouble. I use both solid and fllux core from 023 to .o35.
You're right. I haven't even contacted them about it.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrmccabe
I would much rather have that.

The foot or finger control is nice. With it you can control your heat to get your puddle established and peter it out at the end as well as adjust along the way. Its really the way to go.

The coolant setup is nice for a couple reasons. First the torch gets HOT if you dont have it, but more importantly they run the power wire through the coolant line to the torch so your cable is much more flexible and the torch is much smaller. So the whole setup is easier to handle.

??? On the amps. That seems way high. I cant imagine that is right

Rich

what would be a reasonable price for that tig
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 07:23 AM
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I really dont know for sure. You could not buy that new with cooler and torch for $4K or more.

I think if I was springing for something like that I might go up to $700 or $800.

I am short on space and I have been considering buying one of these new Miller $1100 units. They are not liquid but have a finger control and are really small.
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Old 08-27-2005, 01:09 PM
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harbor freight tig

Just curious, since I do MIG welding, and was thinking of the HF el-cheapo TIG as a lark, cheap at $199.99. I have never done TIG welding, so this is a dumb question. If I got the HF machine, which includes the gas connection, what problems would I have if I tried to use my MIG gas (75% argon/CO2), which I already have? (I suppose I should also ask the same question about using straight argon on a MIG.)
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Old 08-27-2005, 02:11 PM
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C25 gas mix will contaminate or melt your tungsten electrodes, you should use straight argon for most tig welding including aluminum and mild steel.
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Old 08-27-2005, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hlewis@physics.ucsb.
Just curious, since I do MIG welding, and was thinking of the HF el-cheapo TIG as a lark, cheap at $199.99. I have never done TIG welding, so this is a dumb question. If I got the HF machine, which includes the gas connection, what problems would I have if I tried to use my MIG gas (75% argon/CO2), which I already have? (I suppose I should also ask the same question about using straight argon on a MIG.)
the mix you have is a hotter gas than straight argon! you can use it with the tig but will weld a bit dirtier,and would not weld aluminum very well even if you had hf/ac for that you would use argon or helium!
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Old 08-27-2005, 05:15 PM
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I have been welding for over 40 years. I own mig(miller 200 amp),tig(miller sycrowave 250), stick & ox/act.

I use my tig for welding al & stainless. I simply can not see welding mild steel w/a tig unless it is a steering component or needs max strength & for these a low power welder should not be used.

Don
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Old 08-27-2005, 05:34 PM
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Don why wouldnt you use a TIG for mild steel?

If I was going to build a frame or brackets, thats my first choice. Nothing like the beauty of a TIG bead. Not to mention, I am to the point I hate MIG splatter

I also had a Miller Syncrowave 250 at one time. Awesome machine. Had a water cooled torch and loved it.

I dont have it anymore but just got an opportunity to buy a Lincoln SquareWave 175 with finger control from a friend without liquid. Gonna give it a try and if it feels good hand him some cash.

Rich
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Old 08-27-2005, 05:54 PM
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I use TIG for steel all the time, ATV and motorcycle frames, tanks of different types, some auto body panels, brackets of different types or about anything where appearance is important. The list is endless
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2005, 08:11 PM
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I do not use tig on items like frames because it puts a lot more heat into the weld than a mig & warpage is more of a problem. It also is much slower.

When you have a large area to weld there is no need for a tig. In fact I would rather use a stick welder on a frame than tig.

Like I said before I do not very often use tig on mild steel........ except for critical areas.
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Old 08-28-2005, 09:18 AM
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Don, I agree 100% about using stick on frames, although I will use TIG on tube type frames such as ATV and motorcycles but I usually don't recommend stick for someone looking for "how to advice" since as the old saying goes "if you have to ask.." This not to say I don't think that everyone can produce a safe stick weld it's just that there is too much involved in producing an inclusion and porosity free weld to teach someone even the basics without hands-on instruction. I once read an article in a welding journal that fully 80-90% of the welders(weldors) out there who consider themselves expert, including some that are certified, still are lacking important skills when it comes to producing a true X-ray quality weld which should be the goal of any weld on a frame. When one tries to explain about general weld technique, start and run-off plates, backing plates, proper preparation, heat control, proper rod selection, weld stress control, hydrogen embrittlement and many other things we "old timers" just take for granted it becomes clear that an instructor is needed. I know most of these things pertain to all welding it's just that they are more critical and harder to learn to control with a stick welder. Think about it, how many times have you seen someone stick the welding rod only to wiggle it free and then re-strike the arc right in the middle of the weld and continue on as if nothing happened? A GREAT MANY welders see nothing wrong with this and may be wondering, what's the big deal? but that is exactly my point. That is only one of many examples and it would take a good deal of space to explain the "whys and why nots" along with the proper methods for handling that scenario along with many others and for that reason if I can not convince an inexperienced welder to have their frame welds done by a pro then I would much rather have them do it with a MIG than by stick. Someone's very life could depend on a frame weld so it really should be left to a pro no matter what method is used.

Sorry if I got a little off subject but I felt this was important due to how many people weld on and/or build their own frames.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2005, 09:27 AM
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I think it really depends on the frame you are working on.

If I was welding a frame or patching rust holes on lets say a 64 Impala, I would use a MIG or stick for sure.

But if I am building a crossmember into a show quality boxed tubular 34 roadster frame, I wont look anywhere but the TIG.

Rich
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2005, 09:45 AM
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RR, This goes back to what I said earlier about welding tubing, tanks and such and anywhere appearance is important. Sure you could make a very strong and sound weld with stick on that cross member example you gave but what would it look like? I am sure it would look better with MIG than stick and be just as strong but with TIG it will still have the strength and an appearance that just cannot be duplicated with stick or MIG. When you start talking about tube frames then stick and MIG are not even in the same league as TIG When I was talking about using stick on frames I meant for repair or modification of factory frames.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2005, 10:31 AM
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Myself I have looked into the TIG and it does not seem to me to be necessary unless a fellow is doing something exotic such as 4130 or lots of aluminum or stainless..For most of us the mig and getting some good stick skills will do 90% of every thing we need to do..

Just my thoughts..I think the builders of welding equipment do a lot of "product placement" on the TV shows in order to get fellows to think they just have to have a TIG to build a street rod or bike..

Now of course it takes a great deal of practice to get good at any type of welding..

Now would I like to have one..Yup but then I just cannot justify a new miller dynasty welder which I think is the one that works the best..

OMT
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