[akm]

i just got a 92 jeep wrangler with the Fuel Injected 2.5L (4) with/ 5 speed.
i've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter.
the problem is in the morning when i go to start it, i have to crank it over about 20 times till it finally starts.
is there something else that i should check out/ replace that i'm forgeting? i poured some fuel injector cleaner in the gas.
could it be the EGR?

thanks Aaron

[FASTCHEVY]

Is the check engine light on? It wouldn't be the EGR valve.
It could be anything from a worn out fuel pump, to a blocked up cat. The first thing I would do is a compression test.

[akm]

Originally posted by FASTCHEVY
Is the check engine light on? It wouldn't be the EGR valve.
It could be anything from a worn out fuel pump, to a blocked up cat. The first thing I would do is a compression test.

RE: "hard cold start" (engine forum)
the check engine light is not on, but i was kinda thinking maybe a weak fuel pump.

[FASTCHEVY]

At first, does it spit and sputter, and after a few cranks it will stay runing?
Or do you crank it a few times, then it kicks off as if you just turned on the fuel pump?

[akm]

it spits and sputters, and will crank up but just dies.

[FASTCHEVY]

Originally posted by akm
it spits and sputters, and will crank up but just dies.

Do a compression test and a fuel pressure test while your at it.
I've got a comp tester if you don't have one, and my neighbor Jeff has a fuel pressure gage/tester.

The best fix is a 4.3L Chevy transplant.

[Wrencher]

Check the coolant temp sensor, and fuel press!

[akm]

Originally posted by Wrencher
Check the coolant temp sensor, and fuel press!

just curious why i would need to check the coolant temp sensor?

[Wrencher]

The temp sensor, " not sender" tells the computer the temp of the coolant, to regulate fuel delivery, in short!

[FASTCHEVY]

If the computer thinks the engine is hot, it won't go into cold start mode.

[akm]

ahh, i see.
the thing that struck me odd about that is that my temp gauge doesn't work. guess i'll start there.

thanks

p.s. i was looking for the temp sender the other day and there were many in different locations. would that be on the intake or on the block? (the "sensor" that is)

[FASTCHEVY]

I think it's in the water neck, on the intake.

[poncho62]

It's your fuel pump relay........If the relay is not working, the engine has to build up oil pessure before the fuel pump in the tank will kick in.......

[akm]

Originally posted by poncho62
It's your fuel pump relay........If the relay is not working, the engine has to build up oil pessure before the fuel pump in the tank will kick in.......

is that on the firewall somewhere or does that mean i need a fuel pump? i'll check that out too.

thanks again

[club327]

poncho I could be wrong in this instance, but most of the efi systems that use the oil pressure signal to determine that the engine is running actually use the starter motor solenoid wire signal during cranking. Otherwise you'll end up having an engine that won't fire until oil pressure's built up.........may take 4 seconds to get oil pressure sometimes. akm does it only do it first thing in the cold morning or does it also occur at the end of the day after sitting there all day? If it's only when it's cold then I'd say you have insufficient fuel richness (the temp' sensor is the first thing to check as in previous reply). Your injectors may also benefit from a professional flush and service. The throttle position sensor can also cause silly things to occur if it's not reading right. You may also have a weak spark so it would be easy to fit a dummy spark plug (make the s/plug gap large) to one wire, then earth the plug to the block, crank the engine and observe the spark. It should be blue white and fat.
Now if it's playing up anytime after not running for a long period then you could be losing residual fuel pressure. It could loose pressure from the following in the most likely order.
Fuel pressure regulator
Injectors
Fuel pump.
An easy way to check this is in the morning remove the fuel injector rail fuel SUPPLY hose and see if fuel squirts out under pressure - if it squirts it's okay. The fuel return line is closest to the pressure regulator - don't remove that hose as there' no pressure there.
One more thing. Lots of problems are self induced today by owners and many mechanics by using heavy/thick/high viscosity oils. You'd be amazed how having excessively thick oil could effect the running of an engine - specially when it's cold!