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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 08:53 AM
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In the past I have Pre baked them in my oven to about 300 degree's, after they slide on like butter


Ben

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DTL504
While I have to agree that the design of the Balancer sucks, NEVER POUND THE DAMPER INTO PLACE ,USE THE CORRECT TOOLS, You'll have far fewer UN-EXPLAINED BEARING FAILURES. only time will tell if you damaged the engine pounding the gear or damper into place but its a sure bet that you did NOT HELP the odds of having no problems by hammering on the crank and bearings and I highly discourage using a sledge hammer to tap it back on. Torque the harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.

look at the picture carefully
the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance, don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,

NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...
IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,
IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS
IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY
IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.
IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED
IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT
IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING
IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION
ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DANMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!
ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happends all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM? AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER.
KNUFF SAID

What do you suggest for my 327 the crank has no provission for a bolt to tighten on the damper, How was it originally installed, will need to do the job sooner or later thanks Ed ke6bnl
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by brainsboy
In the past I have Pre baked them in my oven to about 300 degree's, after they slide on like butter


Ben
I have let the balancer sit in a tub of hot water before to ease installation. Oven should work even better.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 02:57 PM
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I'd be careful with the heating up the balancer trick. I've seen more than a few front seals damaged by too much heat. I wouldn't sweat bullets about carefully and squarely installing the balancer with a flat metal plate and a small sledge hammer. It the thrust bearing fails, it wasn't caused by the balancer installation but it's an easy scapegoat for any other problem.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ed ke6bnl
What do you suggest for my 327 the crank has no provission for a bolt to tighten on the damper, How was it originally installed, will need to do the job sooner or later thanks Ed ke6bnl
ED
I would take the crank to your local machine shop and have the tap the crank for a bolt. But if you have already installed the crank in the engine, you could drill and heli-coil 7/16 bolt threads.
Hope this help....
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 04:39 PM
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Not wanting to start trouble but, #1 I've tapped balancers on with a hammer for years...no failures, #2 heating a balancer in the oven seems like you're asking for the tortional rubber that holds the outter ring to the hub to disintgrate,and# 3 how the heck did Chevrolet do it at the factory before cranks were tapped? Maybe they had a system at the factory, but I don't recall any Chevy service depts doing anything but "tap" them on with a brass hammer and a big socket. This does'nt mean beating the crap outa it with a 3lb steel sledge.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DTL504
ED
I would take the crank to your local machine shop and have the tap the crank for a bolt. But if you have already installed the crank in the engine, you could drill and heli-coil 7/16 bolt threads.
Hope this help....
The engine is together is there a problem of just drilling the the crank for the 7/16 fine threads without the heli-coil. Thanks for the reply Ed
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 05:41 PM
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I wasnt talking about beating the living crap out of the damper lol, just tap the edges of it with the mallet to get it on. I know all about the thrust bearing, but I'm sure it can take alot more abuse than a few love taps.

I remember I had to get my old co-worker over with his and my breaker bars to get the bolt out of an olds 307. Mothers to get out and tighten on, but still better than the chebbies
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ed ke6bnl
The engine is together is there a problem of just drilling the the crank for the 7/16 fine threads without the heli-coil. Thanks for the reply Ed
Ed
You have three choice:
1. Drill a hole in the crank and Tap the hole for 7/16 bolt
2. Drill the hole and install a heli-coil.
3. Beat the Living ***** out of damper onto the crank...
(Just Kidding)
just tap the edges of it with the mallet to get it on.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 07:38 PM
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You definitely DON"T want to tap or pound on the outer edge of the balancer with any kind of hammer. That will probably cause the inertia ring to move and cause it to wobble. IF you want to try to pound it on, you must use a piece of flat metal and direct the force onto the middle of the center hub itself.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2004, 08:13 PM
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As far as I"m concerned, This is the best way to install a balancer when you don't have a hole in the crank.


Last edited by Jmark; 04-30-2004 at 10:13 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2004, 08:07 AM
King of my Man-cave.
 
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Hey, is that a Snap-on or a Mac tool? \\tom
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2004, 10:11 AM
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Hi Tom, I"m cheap, its a Craftsman! LOL

My son, on the other hand, won't own a Craftsman. HAS to be Snap-On!! He spent more on tools the first 2 years of wrenching then our house cost us 26 years ago!

Mark
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