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Old 04-29-2004, 10:11 AM
CamaroX
 
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Harmonic Balancer Doesnt Want to Go On!

I have a fluidampr balancer that I am tryin to put on my small block chevy, part numbers are all right for it and I made sure of that. The old messed up balancer will slide right in easily, the new one has alot of resistance after about going halfway in. I stopped turning it when it got jerky, and Ive gotta go rent the tool now to take it off The instructions say stop if there is something wrong and figure out what it is... helps that I have no clue. I put the anti-seize grease it said to on the balancer bore, and on the crank snout, lined the thing up right, started to tighten and then it started resisting more and I dont want to push it any further so I dont strip something. I cant seem to contact them... some company bought them out it seems, so If anyone has any ideas that would be helpful. I read on a link from another post you can warm them up and they should slide on easier but... instructions say dont heat it up so Im not sure what to do. Any help would be appreciated , thx

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Old 04-29-2004, 12:16 PM
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Check the crank snout and keyway for burrs, file them down as needed and go over with sand paper to assure smoothness. some resistance will be there with a new balancer compared to a used unit.
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:18 PM
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did you clean the shaft crank good???(sanding} and are you useing a tool to put it on?? I have allways used a tool to put them on,and some was tighter then others to go on.. (well not always--i did use a block of wood and a big hammer one time,which is not good to do) lol
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:24 PM
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FIT

Most all aftermarket balancers need fit. Did you check the crankshaft size and the bore in the balancer to determin the fit??

keith
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:30 PM
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Keep in mind that the crank snout will probably be recessed in the balancer about 1 inch, it will only go on until it hits the timing gear.

Good luck.

406chevelle
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:17 PM
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thx for replies, and yes im using a tool ive heard of people using hammers and that just sounds like a big no no .. I will try sanding it down, i figured I wouldnt have to but I will try.

and 406chevelle, its about halfway in I figured, Im pretty sure it hasnt made it was all the way down, because it can still move but it rough and jerky I rather just get it on smoothly and not strip anything. again thx everyone
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:46 PM
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Some dampners need to be honed to fit. You need about .0015 to .002" press.

Chris
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:43 PM
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Well I took the balancer off, and went to file down stuff but there was nothing to go after.. and it says in instructions not to modify the balancer in anyway, but the internal bore is clearing smaller than on the original balancer. To the naked eye the diameter is slightly smaller, and using crappy measuring tools its obviously smaller.
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Old 04-29-2004, 07:45 PM
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I just had this same,problem,halfway on it just stopped.went a little further hoping it would start sliding but never did.I've ever put one on that just slipped on.
well anyway i was using an installer tool,which looks like a big fat bolt and nut,tighten the nut ,it pushes it on.i took it off twice because i didn't like the way it felt,filed sanded felt nothing but smooth,on the 3rd try i was getting desperate,i backed the nut off when it got tight and looked at it,hmm looks dry,maybe a little oil on the threads,TaDa!went on smooth after that with just the right resistance.
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cstraub
Some dampners need to be honed to fit. You need about .0015 to .002" press.

Chris
Say it again, they did not hear you....

I just had my rotating assembly balance and had my damper honed to fit the crank, cost $25.00. Bring it to a machine shop and have them do it right. Hone the damper and use the install tool to put it on the crank snout...
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:25 PM
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Here is the correct balancer installing tool.

Using a bolt and washer is a good way to ruin the crank threads. Using a hammer is a real good way to ruin the crank.

We got the right tool for our last 2 engines and its slick! Pushed em right on, no sweat.

Mark
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:28 PM
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Im using almost exact same tool.. and I am gonna get the damn thing honed even though instructions claim it will unbalance it. Thx for replies, no hammer was ever used in this process though
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Old 04-29-2004, 09:29 PM
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You can also get the tool from your local Autozone, with their loan a tool program...
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Old 04-29-2004, 11:07 PM
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Yeah, the chevy balancer design in short SUCKS!

They expect you to waste all your time and money on special tools to pull the damn thing off and then install the thing.

I love the olds design, One huge bolt, balancer just slips right off! No need for special tools. Only thing is the torque to put the bolt back in is about 250ft lbs. Get a friend and jump on it! hehehe...

I would use a rubber sledge hammer to tap the balancer back on, tap it until it is in place, then put the bolt on.
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 87442lover
Yeah, the chevy balancer design in short SUCKS!

I would use a rubber sledge hammer to tap the balancer back on, tap it until it is in place, then put the bolt on.
While I have to agree that the design of the Balancer sucks, NEVER POUND THE DAMPER INTO PLACE ,USE THE CORRECT TOOLS, You'll have far fewer UN-EXPLAINED BEARING FAILURES. only time will tell if you damaged the engine pounding the gear or damper into place but its a sure bet that you did NOT HELP the odds of having no problems by hammering on the crank and bearings and I highly discourage using a sledge hammer to tap it back on. Torque the harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs.

look at the picture carefully
the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance, don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,

NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...
IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,
IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS
IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY
IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.
IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED
IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT
IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING
IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION
ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DANMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!
ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happends all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM? AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER.
KNUFF SAID
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