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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davex View Post
In sweden unfortunately you can't rent tools like that, and they cost about $250 to buy, so that's the absolutely last resort.

I'll try boiling tomorrow and see if that works better, the hot air gun only get's so warm that it's uncomfortable to hold it without gloves...
Nowhere near 250 USD, look at Summit and get one sent to Sweden.

Ex. Performance Tool Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Sets W89711

$69.97 = 442.046 SEK

Freezing, boiling hammering......

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny View Post
Yep...

Why not pull that balancer off. Then measure the snout, and measure the balancer. You can tell where the seal will ride. Don't make this to hard...
Measure where it is before you pull it off.

Measure the distance from the face of the balancer to the end of the crank snout. Then once the balancer is removed add that number to the measured distance from the end of the crank snout to face of the timing gear. If you're fully seated that number will be the same as the overall thickness of the balancer. Doing that you should be able to figure out if you were fully seated or not especially if you're off but a half inch.
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc View Post
Nowhere near 250 USD, look at Summit and get one sent to Sweden.

Ex. Performance Tool Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Sets W89711

$69.97 = 442.046 SEK

Freezing, boiling hammering......
to be fair, you have got a point, but on the other hand, the cheapest shipping option is $80, bringing the total up to $150, then there's the import tax of 30% which adds another $45, import taxation charge of $15, shipping from the customs office $20 bringing the final total to $230 (no i'm not joking or making up numbers), so ok, i exaggerated slightly when i said $250, but now very much
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:22 PM
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This is what to look out for
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:06 PM
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If it is long, so you have a shop nearby that can chuck it up in a lathe and trim the shaft down? Wouldn't take 5 minutes.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 11:24 PM
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Summit checkout tells me iParcel is available to Sweden.
Without the exact address the total I get is 201 USD = 1,275.00 SEK.
If I was to order that to Spain I´d be paying 165.10 USD.
I would have thought, as Sweden does have American cars, there would be tools available.
I have been getting parts from the States for twenty years now, usually the exchange rate was the problem but now the government is raising the import duties.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2013, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by malc View Post
Summit checkout tells me iParcel is available to Sweden.
Without the exact address the total I get is 201 USD = 1,275.00 SEK.
If I was to order that to Spain I´d be paying 165.10 USD.
I would have thought, as Sweden does have American cars, there would be tools available.
I have been getting parts from the States for twenty years now, usually the exchange rate was the problem but now the government is raising the import duties.
that's strange, i don't get the iparcel shipping option at all, doesn't matter if i log in to my account...
there is tools available to buy in sweden, but they cost an ridiculous amount of money, i have already checked with the 3 big companies that supply american car parts and tools and the cheapest option for buying such a tool would be $250 (that's why i said from the beginning that it would cost $250, i have bought quite a lot from summit, but due to the high shipping cost and high taxes in sweden you have to either ship the stuff in a container or be in the US in person and bring it with you on your flight home, otherwise you might end up saving a couple of dollars on it, but you'll have to wait for the stuff to arrive for ages)
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:45 AM
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Have you done the obvious and pulled it back off to look around? something askew orr behind it maybe?

Have you pulled your tool to make sure the nuts are not binding at the location the balancer has stopped preventing the tool from pushing it on further?
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Denny View Post
Boy, you guys in Sweden have it rough. Example. I ordered some diodes, LED's to be exact. Came from China. Total shipping cost was 4.95 cents. Sounds like when you order, you pay for everybody's wages along the way...
Haha, well it's actually only this way when i order stuff from the United States, when i buy stuff from china i usually get free shipping on most of the stuff, i have never paid more than $1-2 for shipping from china, and that's the exeption, not the rule.

I think i know why this is though, i went to california, nevada and arizona this summer and before going home i ordered as much as would fit in my bags from summit, when it arrived the packaged was 75% filled with bubblewrap, so they were enormous. the shipping only cost me $25 for next day delivery via ground shipping, but imagine sending packages like that internationally via air...
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:44 AM
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Problem solved, it turned out that the place i bought the balancer had sent the wrong one, so after a very steamy phone call they agreed to send me a new one (at first they refused because i had tried to install the one they first sent me), it (amazingly) arrived this afternoon (same day they sent it, if you know anything about the swedish postal service you'll be aware that's nothing short of a miracle), greased it up and it slid into place without much trouble.

Thanks for all you'r help!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2013, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davex View Post
greased it up and it slid into place without much trouble.
BBBZZZZTTT, wrong answer.
Dampers are a very tight press fit (0.001" to 0.0015" interference fit) on the crank snout so that they can transfer crankshaft harmonics to the hub, through the elastomeric material and on to the inertia ring to be cancelled out. They were not designed to "slide into place without much trouble". If you don't cancel the harmonics properly, you can crack the crankshaft.

Let me go a little farther with my explanation.
When a cylinder fires, the piston exerts a force via the rod onto the crankpin of the crankshaft. This force bends the crankpin off the design centerline until the crankpin encounters enough resistance in the crank material to stop it bending any farther. Now, since it's loaded with energy, it begins to spring back in the opposite direction, going past center and loading on the other side of centerline as far as the material will allow. Now, it's loaded on the other side and begins to spring back in the original direction......and so on and so on until the harmonic is either cancelled out or dies out on its own. Picture this happening 4 times for each crankshaft revolution on a V8 and you can see why we must cancel these harmonics properly, or sacrifice a crank.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
BBBZZZZTTT, wrong answer.
Dampers are a very tight press fit (0.001" to 0.0015" interference fit) on the crank snout so that they can transfer crankshaft harmonics to the hub, through the elastomeric material and on to the inertia ring to be cancelled out. They were not designed to "slide into place without much trouble". If you don't cancel the harmonics properly, you can crack the crankshaft.

Let me go a little farther with my explanation.
When a cylinder fires, the piston exerts a force via the rod onto the crankpin of the crankshaft. This force bends the crankpin off the design centerline until the crankpin encounters enough resistance in the crank material to stop it bending any farther. Now, since it's loaded with energy, it begins to spring back in the opposite direction, going past center and loading on the other side of centerline as far as the material will allow. Now, it's loaded on the other side and begins to spring back in the original direction......and so on and so on until the harmonic is either cancelled out or dies out on its own. Picture this happening 4 times for each crankshaft revolution on a V8 and you can see why we must cancel these harmonics properly, or sacrifice a crank.
when i say "slid into place without much trouble" what i mean is that i could push it on a little bit by hand and then using a threaded rod and nuts i could thighten it into place. i just meant that i got it into position without running into trouble
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