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Old 06-12-2004, 10:58 AM
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Harmonic Balancer, Installation Question.

Hey guys, enjoying your day off? Is it ok if I hammer the balancer on using a socket large enough to fit over the end of the crank? I wan't to put the new harmonic balancer on the crate motor(350 chevy) this weekend . I've been to every parts store in the area trying to get the tool to install it correctly. No One has one. I know hammering it on is not the right way, and I could get the tool from a friend during the week, but it's a nice weekend and I'd like to this motor in the car this weekend.


Thanks

Mike

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Old 06-12-2004, 11:46 AM
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Do NOT hammer it on!

Wait until you are able to get the correct installation tool. There will be many more pleasant days.
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:27 PM
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Think about this: One of my customers was in the same situation and decided to use the old hammer and block of wood install. He got the engine in the car and went cruising saturday evening. No problems, feeling good. Next day his dad comes over to his house and they decide to take the new engined car out for a run. Everything is great till they get out on the expressway and get into it a bit. The balancer had cracked from the improper install and as soon as the engine hit 5500, the balancer and lower pulley decided to exit. Thru the lower radiator,fan,shroud and then took a bite at the hood ! not a pretty site! The crank bolt/washer was broken off flush with the end of the crank. Front cover destroyed at the seal.
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:37 PM
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Thanks Frisco and Bob thats exactly what I needed to hear.
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Old 06-12-2004, 04:25 PM
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Ok that all sounds very dramatic. What would you do when you have to replace a balancer and seal kit, due to an oil leak, on an early engine with no crank pulley bolt hole?
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Old 06-12-2004, 09:36 PM
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rule of thumb

basic rule of thumb is if you bustin your hump their is probably a tool or procedure that makes it easier
take it from a toolaholic. happy motoring
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:37 PM
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I used the hammer & board method for years with no problems, and will probably use it again on my old 283, but I much prefer an installer tool. I use a piece of 7/16 NF threaded rod, the stock balancer washer, a thrust bearing from an A/C clutch installer tool, a 7/16" washer, & a 7/16" NF nut, with plenty of grease on the threads.
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:54 PM
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ouch

Ive beat a few on until i got on a 95?chevy 454 thought i had it until the belt chewed up within 5 minuets ouch i hate wrecking new parts

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Old 06-13-2004, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by club327
Ok that all sounds very dramatic. What would you do when you have to replace a balancer and seal kit, due to an oil leak, on an early engine with no crank pulley bolt hole?
I'd drill & tap the crank so that I could not only use the installation tool, but could also add the correct bolt and washer to hold the damper on.

A simple alignment drill guide can be made to slip over the end of the crank. This enables you to drill the hole on center and square.
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Old 06-13-2004, 03:01 PM
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haven't done it this way but a buddy bakes his in the oven at 250 degreesfor 15 minutes then out with oven mitts & on , finishing with the hardwood & hammer method. He says its easy!Persoanlly though I got mine started and with an extra long fine thread bolt pulled it in slowly as I didn't have room to hammer with rad clearance in the hot rod. Worked out ok.
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Old 06-13-2004, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frisco
I'd drill & tap the crank so that I could not only use the installation tool, but could also add the correct bolt and washer to hold the damper on.

A simple alignment drill guide can be made to slip over the end of the crank. This enables you to drill the hole on center and square.
Yeah in the perfect world! But let's get back to reality. The engine's in the car, not on the bench. There's no room for a drill due to the chassis. You don't have a tool to align the drill bit and don't have the time to make one up. How the hell did GM fit these things on the assembly line? What method does the original repair manual say to force the h/balancer on? I'm not trying to cause anything here. I believe that most balancers get whacked onto the crankshaft where there's no bolt hole in the crank and we don't hear from the majority of these. But all being well, I'd have a hole drilled whenever I could just so the balancer can be eased on the crank without any impact onto the shaft.
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Old 06-13-2004, 10:44 PM
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I recently read that the factory pressed them on before the engines were installed in the vehicles.

Be sure if you pound it on that you don't pound on the outer ring, because this would weaken the rubber between the outer ring & the hub. Pound only on the center hub, and only with a piece of wood protecting the hub from the hammer.

Last edited by jimfulco; 06-13-2004 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 06-14-2004, 01:02 AM
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I would´nt put mine in the oven at 250 for 15mins surely that would affect the elastomar between the inner and outer ring.
Get an installer/remover from Summit cheaper in the long run.
Part G1025.
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Old 06-14-2004, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by club327
Yeah in the perfect world! But let's get back to reality. The engine's in the car, not on the bench. There's no room for a drill due to the chassis. You don't have a tool to align the drill bit and don't have the time to make one up. How the hell did GM fit these things on the assembly line? What method does the original repair manual say to force the h/balancer on? I'm not trying to cause anything here. I believe that most balancers get whacked onto the crankshaft where there's no bolt hole in the crank and we don't hear from the majority of these. But all being well, I'd have a hole drilled whenever I could just so the balancer can be eased on the crank without any impact onto the shaft.
I said that I'd make the tool to align the drillbit and the tap correctly.

If there is no room to drill the end of the crank due to the chassis being in the way; then there also wouldn't be enough room to pound the damper on. Remove the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine to gain the clearance. Better yet, pull the engine out of the vehicle to do it correctly.



For one time only use, almost any material can be used. A second guide can be made for the tap. Just change the .391 hole to 7/16.

Last edited by Frisco; 06-14-2004 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:36 AM
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The heating method works GREAT. just sand everything perfectly smooth before hand, and make sureall is ready, and brass hammer or wood ready too. Heat in oven to 250- 300 for half an hour at least. (the melting point of the rubber is way higher) use a rag or wifes new oven mitts and QUICKLY AND WITH FORCE push it on. Then (also immediatly) start tapping with brass hammer or whatever till it snugs in. Sometimes it will shoove on and bottem out with just your hands! If all is smooth and bur and ridge free then do not even use oil. It transfers the heat too quickly. Never tried a dry teflon lubricant but that might be the real answer.
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