[NEW INTERIORS]

Originally Posted by Chevymon

I seriously doubt that you could cool the air inside of the pipe enough that the outside air temperature would make it sweat.

I guess your right about that..

[shine]

you cool and remove moisture BEFORE you send it through the lines. using copper is not going to solve a water problem nor will plastic create one.

[NEW INTERIORS]

Originally Posted by shine

you cool and remove moisture BEFORE you send it through the lines. using copper is not going to solve a water problem nor will plastic create one.

That's what I always thought..

[Chevymon]

How are you cooling your air?

[NEW INTERIORS]

What I was getting at about the metal lines was, I don't leave air pressure on my lines when I'm not using them... Wouldn't the metal lines sweat with nothing in them on a very hot day..

[Chevymon]

I live in Michigan and have my compressor upstairs and run 3/4 inch galvanized pipe for about 30 feet of unheated areas of my building before entering the shop. And there is about 60 feet of 1/2 inch galvanized pipe in the shop and I have never seen any moisture on the pipe.

[Chevymon]

In order for the pipe to sweat, the temperature of the pipe has to get below the dew point. That would be rare in air pipes, if it is possible. IMO I hope someone corrects me if I am wrong.

[Chevymon]

I have been reading some of Hub's old posts about compressed air, maybe you guys might find it interesting.
http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB3/viewfo...daba1ce6ea4a2e

[oldred]

Originally Posted by shine

you cool and remove moisture BEFORE you send it through the lines. using copper is not going to solve a water problem nor will plastic create one.

Shine again you have me puzzled? How are you cooling your air at the compressor? Copper is the very best way to cool the air and remove moisture and PVC is a terrible choice for that purpose. Assuming a person does not have a cooler of some sort located between the compressor tank and the supply line then the line itself from the tank to the water separator is expected to serve as the condenser for the water vapor, that's the reason 50' of pipe is the recommended minimum. Basically what the pipe does is cool the hot air as it exits the compressor tank, hot air will contain the moisture as a vapor which will pass right through a water separator. The idea is to cool the air by using the metal pipe walls to radiate off the heat therefore causing the water vapor to condense and collect on the cooler pipe walls so that the separator can remove it, this is why a water separator does not do much good if it is mounted close to the compressor tank. Pipe does not "sweat" as is commonly said but the water is condensed out of the air when the heat is radiated off and the water vapor turns into liquid which is what you want it to do. Once the water has condensed into liquid and collected on the pipe walls it can be drained off into "drops" or collection points where it can be later drained out of the system, likewise the water that is still in the air flow will now be condensed into liquid droplets that can be more easily collected in the separator. Nothing much like this happens when using PVC, the PVC is very inefficient at removing the heat so the air will stay hotter and more of the moisture will remain in vapor form to pass through the separator and into your air lines. Once this vapor is past the separator some of it will condense in the air line and exit into your tools as liquid water while some of it will condense as the air cools from expansion upon exiting the hose. So yes Copper vs PVC can and does make a profound difference in the amount of water that can be easily removed from an air system before the air reaches the tool being used., this is not just opinion but a well known engineering fact.

[Chevymon]

Shine I know you are having moisture problems and need dry air for blasting. Tell us what you have now.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by Chevymon

Shine I know you are having moisture problems and need dry air for blasting. Tell us what you have now.

I actually doubt that he does, Shine is a pro and would never put up with a problem like that. I don't know what the humidity is like in that part of Texas but humidity makes all the difference.


Shine do you use a cooler on that system?

[Chevymon]

Be nice Red, they are convinced, and I think they could use a little help. Shine is off line now.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS

That's what I always thought..

Actually the first water trap (or outlet) should be at 25' from compressor. At that point the air should be cooled off enough for the water droplets to be large enough for the water trap to trap it.

Brian

[oldred]

Originally Posted by Chevymon

Be nice Red, they are convinced, and I think they could use a little help. Shine is off line now.

Not sure what you mean but I was not being sarcastic, I have known Shine for a while and he really is a professional who could not put up with a moisture problem. I am certain he does not have one but I don't know how his system is set up so I am curious how he accomplishes this.

[Chevymon]

Sorry if I misread your comment intent. I saw a post from shine on another forum, and he was talking about running pipe underground soon, so I think that means he is having trouble. And with the blasting that he does, it could be very aggravating.
He shares so much, it would be nice for him to recieve once in awhile, nobody knows it all. But if he is reading the comments from Hub, it should put him in the right direction.