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Old 08-03-2002, 08:59 PM
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Question "Has anyone ever made their own 7 quart oil pan?

I am building a low budget 350 for circle track racing, in a 78 monte carlo. I have been told i need a bigger pan, but a used one is hard to find with the dip stick on the right side. I have access to any tools i need at work. Can i just take a stock oil pan and extend it?

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Old 08-03-2002, 09:47 PM
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Easy to do, Crazy but hard to do really well. The biggest problem I had was keeping the flange straight. having a bending brake is very handy and a TIG or MIG welder is a must. Keep a big pile of wet rags handy to keep the whole thing cool during the welding and stagger tack every 2 inches until the whole thing is welded. The only other thing I would mention is the aftermarket pans like Milodon are twice as thick as the factory pans and this fact sure makes it easier to make a nice job of the project. I would find a large piece of metal to bolt the flange, use a bolt through every hole. You can also use vise grip clamps to clamp to a heavy welding table if you have access to a lot of them.
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Old 08-04-2002, 08:51 AM
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I am planning on using a stock pan, and just adding on to it so it will hold more oil. Do i need to worry about adding more baffles or a longer pickup? I was planning to just add to the side so i don't think i would need to extend the pick-up.
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:08 AM
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4 Jaw, you crazy Cannuk, that is zactly how we do it at the shop. The only way as far as I am concerned
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:52 AM
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Hey Madd, seems like everyone does this at least once.

CrazyT I would baffle the snot out of it since you can, if you add "kickouts" taper them down so it forces the oil down during those long corners. Perforated sheet metal makes excellent baffles, the stuff with 3/16 to 1/4 inch holes works well and won't restrict the oil flow to the pick up. Make up a windage tray out of the same perforated sheet metal...or buy one. The one I made used a perforated sheet across the entire sump area to help trap the oil and keep it around the pickup, you imagination is your best friend in this area. Remember to leave enough room for the pickup and have it 3/8" off the bottom. A nice little slope to one corner where the plug will be will help when it is time to drain it, use a big 1" plug and it will take 1/4 the time to drain. I could go on and on about oil pan design.
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Old 08-23-2002, 11:29 PM
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When I was first getting started, I used to built my oval track pans using a kit from speedway motors. $15 for the kit, $13 for the high volume pump pickup.

It is essentially the bottom section with gates and a kickout. I bolted my stock pan to a 'retired' block. Cut the bottom out of the pan. Fitted and welded the kit to the pan. Removed the pan from the block and filled it with water to check for leaks. Not a 7 quart pan, but they met my needs at the time.

Even with the kit, this whole process is time consuming. Stock car circle track pans have come down in price in recent years. I think that you can now get their claimer combo (pan, oil pump & pickup) for around $80 (stock pump), $95 (hv pump).
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:51 AM
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The most idiotic version of this process I ever did was change a 440 Chrysler from a front sump to a rear sump to clear x-members on an engine swap! Took about a full day but we got it to work. I would think the kick out wings on the sump part of the pan would be the easiest to make, rather than attacking the main part of the pan. Like 4jaw says, once you cut the pan off near the flange, you are stuck with aligning everything with a dozen sky hooks. The sump wings have several advantages; adds volme without changing the pickup tube, cuts and welds are made where the pan has many bends and little flat metal so warpage is controlled, the kickouts are compact and bendy so they are also warp resistant. Dont forget to add a couple of check flappers to keep the oil in the middle though.
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