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Old 05-20-2011, 08:53 AM
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Has anyone got torque specs for installing the 4l60e+....

Has anyone got torque specs for installing the 2000 4l60e to the 5.3L SLT engine, with np246 t/case. So many variations in specs out there .


transmission to the engine.
Flywheel to torque converter
Exhaust Manifold Bolts
heat shield to transmission.
transmission rear mount.
transmission cross member
Driveshaft- rear axle
Starter to engine

Thanks guys

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Old 05-20-2011, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old yukon
Has anyone got torque specs for installing the 2000 4l60e to the 5.3L SLT engine, with np246 t/case. So many variations in specs out there .


transmission to the engine.
Flywheel to torque converter
Exhaust Manifold Bolts
heat shield to transmission.
transmission rear mount.
transmission cross member
Driveshaft- rear axle
Starter to engine

Thanks guys
i havent used a torque wrench on these items ever as i do trans R&R for a living and just use my impact guns. 3/8" drive for everything except for the trans to the engine. and for that i use my 1/2" gun with a 3 ft extension. i zip it flush and give it a couple short bursts.
as far as the rear drive shaft, if its steel i use the 3/8" gun, if its aluminum, i tighten it by hand.
the heat shield that goes on the passenger side of the case, i just tighten by hand as well. maybe 15-20 ft lbs.
after 20+ years, i dont have anything come loose on me or do i have a problem with removal in case the trans has had to come back out
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10
i havent used a torque wrench on these items ever as i do trans R&R for a living and just use my impact guns. 3/8" drive for everything except for the trans to the engine. and for that i use my 1/2" gun with a 3 ft extension. i zip it flush and give it a couple short bursts.
as far as the rear drive shaft, if its steel i use the 3/8" gun, if its aluminum, i tighten it by hand.
the heat shield that goes on the passenger side of the case, i just tighten by hand as well. maybe 15-20 ft lbs.
after 20+ years, i dont have anything come loose on me or do i have a problem with removal in case the trans has had to come back out
Pretty much what I do as well.

If you are concerned though you can look up the bolt size, TPI/Pitch, and the grade of the bolt to get the general torque specs. Plenty of charts on the internet.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:17 PM
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I wish i had the the sense of knowing when it is just tight enough, I don't have the 20 - 30 years experience in bolting up stuff on a car.

You guys are are like the head chef who never follows a recipe, I'm like the apprentice chef, who measures and weighs everything.

I think i have a about ten year to go before I throw away my torque wrenches, verni calipers, and feeler gauges.

I just check hunting till I find the torque specs, or use blue and red locktite on everything LOL !!!
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:51 PM
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Practice makes perfect. If you are working on something where you have time simply mess around with your wrenches, ratchets, and air tools while following with the torque wrench. It really helps give an idea of what amount of force does what.

After a while you can tell what your impact is doing by sound, and feel. Same goes for wrenches, and ratchets. You can feel it tightening. You can even feel the bolt stretching! The worst part is adjusting your force based on the leverage of the tool. Well, that and if you are messing with stuff like aluminum, or stainless. Yuck.

Unless we hit a time warp, it isn't possible for me to have anywhere near 30 years experience.

Oh, after you figure it out you can start betting people you can tighten something within a certain range! Easy money!
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:39 AM
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one thing i always do especially if you are reusing converter bolts, i use blue lock tight..

here are a few specs,

Transmission to Engine Bolt 35 lb ft

Flywheel to Torque Converter Bolt 46 lb ft

Heat Shield to Transmission Bolt 13 lb ft
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