[camaro freak]

Has anyone replaced the door skins on a 69 Camaro? I am wondering what I need to know. Is it as easy as grinding the edges to separate the old panel, lift it off, prep edges, position new skin, fold seam edge around frame and spot weld?

[302 Z28]

I replaced the drivers door skin on my 69 and it was not a big deal, much easier IMO than splicing in patch panels. I ground through the exterior panel with a side grinder all around the door. The panel lifted right off with just a little effort. I cleaned up the door frame, removing any rust and adhesive. The new panel was placed on the door frame and the edges fold over and spot welded. I was very pleased with the results. FWIW that was about 18 years ago and the panel was a NOS from Chevy, not a repop.

Vince

[MARTINSR]

Here is a "Basics of Basics" on door skins.....http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12761

And that site "Camaros.net" is the BEST forum on the web for dealing with Camaros.

Brian

[crashtech]

Something that I have started doing, if there is time, is not only to hang the door and tweak it into position before the adhesive dries, but to leave it in position on the vehicle until the adhesive has set, which can range from an hour or two to the next day, depending on temps and if you have an IR lamp. This way there can be no surprises later. It can get really hard to twist a door that has been well bonded around the seam. Once I had a skin squirm around on me somehow even though it was tacked, but not since I have implemented this procedure, which also pretty much eliminates most of the need for welding except when an upper beam comes with the skin.

[camaro freak]

Is the mid section of the panel connected to anything inside the door. Is it welded or glued?

[MARTINSR]

The original skin is welded, no glue was used back then. There is nothing across the middle of a 69 Camaros door.

Brian

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by crashtech

Something that I have started doing, if there is time, is not only to hang the door and tweak it into position before the adhesive dries, but to leave it in position on the vehicle until the adhesive has set, which can range from an hour or two to the next day, depending on temps and if you have an IR lamp. This way there can be no surprises later. It can get really hard to twist a door that has been well bonded around the seam. Once I had a skin squirm around on me somehow even though it was tacked, but not since I have implemented this procedure, which also pretty much eliminates most of the need for welding except when an upper beam comes with the skin.

Whoooh,Crash this is great advice you better save some of these hi tech secerets or we'll be obsolete He,He,I like you already

[camaro freak]

Do I need to buy the $130 tool from Eastwood or is there a much cheaper crimping tool out there?

[MARTINSR]

Read the "Basics" link. You don't need any special tool, a hammer and dolly will do it. And if you think those "special tools" take less skill to use, think again. Every tool take skills, I have seen those tools used by pros who destroy the panel with it! Using a hammer and dolly as I lay out in the "Basics" is the most controlable, safest, way to skin a door.

Brian

[deadbodyman]

very, very true martin,but spend 40.00 on a door skin hammer don't use a regular body hammer,even so called pros screw skins up regularly with the wrong hammers.and always do a test fit before you get to far and cant go back no matter what system you use.BTW, congrats,thats the shortest post I've ever seen you make,I even read the whole thing.he,he

[MAUSS]

A "door skin hammer"? I don't think I've ever seen one. I'm curious now... pictures?

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by MAUSS

A "door skin hammer"? I don't think I've ever seen one. I'm curious now... pictures?

Martin seems to be the main supplier of the skinning hammers.

Another tool for skinning doors is the Wivco Skinner shown HERE on the right, below.

[crashtech]

Hmm, not only do I not use special hammers to skin doors, I also use regular old metal dollies! I don't use filler on my skin edges as a rule.

Practice makes perfect, your first skin will probably look a mess, lol!

[MARTINSR]

The "door skin hammer" is a must on SOME doors but only in some areas. Along the bottom for instance is a place where I pull out my door skin hammer. The rest of the door is done with a couple different "regular" body hammers. And to tell you the truth, I have found the holy grail of door skins and hardly ever use the door skin hammer after finding it.

The "Hand seamer" is a tool used in heating and ducting and is kinda like a "hand brake".



It is NOT like a "duck bill" vice grip, it's jaws come straight down like a vice. They work like magic on any straight hem. Obviously it won't work down the front or the back of a skin where it is likely curved. But along the bottom or at the top on a late model car where they hem it at the belt line and you can't even swing a hammer at all. This tool works like a charm.

I have seen guys us a small piece of 2x4 for a dolly, one guy had a nice six inch long oak hand railing that worked very cool. I have seen flat metal dollys with a 3M rubber squeegy glued to it.

I have also seen guys use crappy old metal dollys and hammers and do a flawless bondo-free skin time after time.


I personally have the rubber dolly.

Read the "Basics" and take your time and you will do a bondo-less or near bondo-less job the first time.

Brian

[camaro freak]

Anyone ever use the Wivco tool? Folks I have no experience at door skins. I will pay the money if it means it is simpler and makes it right the first time. I would rather spend $100 for skin and $100 for a tool if i am gonna save $100 over buying a new complete door shell. I don't have time for trial and error on the door and my wife would kill me if I buy a skin then have to buy another!