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Old 04-12-2012, 04:49 AM
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Has this engine been stroked?

I just (reluctantly) bought a 350 with block casting number 10066036.

I know it's from GM's Mexico division - I knew that before handed over the cash ($400). Soon as I flipped the tarp back to check the ID at the transmission flange there was HECHO IN MEXICO staring right at me. Pulled a valve cover and same thing. I was freakin pissed. Drove over 2 hours to pick it up. During the course of our 10 phone calls about this deal, the kid failed to mention it was a Mexican GW/TM crate. Just that it had minimal - barely past break in miles, it was a 4 bolt (he "was almost positive") and the RMS was a one piece.

Went to the house. He never even showed, had to talk through his father to knock $100 off the price. But I needed a motor and this was clean and really trimmed out nicely.

After the old man and I had it stuffed it in the back of my van, I had already paid and was about to drive away he tells me that I probably got a good deal. He told me that he had bought it for the kid a year ago paid good money for it, the Jeep it had been powering cracked it's frame and while on the property and had never seen pavement.

I was still fuming about the bait and switch and was in a "yeah, whatever - see ya" mood. Just gettting in the van and he says "it's not just brand new, it's really powerful, it's one of those strokers". I waved good-bye and drove home.

I am still stripping the Jeep interface stuff off also a set of Headman headers and a beautiful Holley dbl pumper. Blah, blah...

Anyway finally to my question. While everything else points to a DOM of 85-86 the crank doesn't. Turns out there's a 2 piece RMS under the flywheel. I got even hotter thinking that I had bought an engine thrown together with mismatched parts.

Did a check on the crank - casting number 9342665. It appears that 9342665 s a 400 crankshaft designation.

So any thoughts? Did I get a nearly zero mile, stroked 350 crate engine (albeit Hecho'd in Mexico) for just $400?
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:55 AM
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Just came across this exchange in another forum:

Question:

I have block number 10066036 and on the crank it has number 9342665 need to know what crank it is and if 350?

Answer:

Yes that is a 350 block but your in luck the crank is a 400 small block, meaning the block is stroked, you have yourself a 383 stroker my friend
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chengny
I just (reluctantly) bought a 350 with block casting number 10066036.

I know it's from GM's Mexico division - I knew that before handed over the cash ($400). Soon as I flipped the tarp back to check the ID at the transmission flange there was HECHO IN MEXICO staring right at me. Pulled a valve cover and same thing. I was freakin pissed. Drove over 2 hours to pick it up. During the course of our 10 phone calls about this deal, the kid failed to mention it was a Mexican GW/TM crate. Just that it had minimal - barely past break in miles, it was a 4 bolt (he "was almost positive") and the RMS was a one piece.

Went to the house. He never even showed, had to talk through his father to knock $100 off the price. But I needed a motor and this was clean and really trimmed out nicely.

After the old man and I had it stuffed it in the back of my van, I had already paid and was about to drive away he tells me that I probably got a good deal. He told me that he had bought it for the kid a year ago paid good money for it, the Jeep it had been powering cracked it's frame and while on the property and had never seen pavement.

I was still fuming about the bait and switch and was in a "yeah, whatever - see ya" mood. Just gettting in the van and he says "it's not just brand new, it's really powerful, it's one of those strokers". I waved good-bye and drove home.

I am still stripping the Jeep interface stuff off also a set of Headman headers and a beautiful Holley dbl pumper. Blah, blah...

Anyway finally to my question. While everything else points to a DOM of 85-86 the crank doesn't. Turns out there's a 2 piece RMS under the flywheel. I got even hotter thinking that I had bought an engine thrown together with mismatched parts.

Did a check on the crank - casting number 9342665. It appears that 9342665 s a 400 crankshaft designation.

So any thoughts? Did I get a nearly zero mile, stroked 350 crate engine (albeit Hecho'd in Mexico) for just $400?
First, MANY crate engines, short and long blocks came from Mexican foundries. BFD- they are as good as any other production block IMO.

Next, estimate the stroke by sticking a piece of wire down the spark plug hole, rotate to the bottom of the stroke, mark the wire, rotate to the top of the stroke, mark the wire again. It won't be exact, but you sure as heck can tell the diff between a ~3.5" and a 3-3/4" stroke if you take your time.

Another clue could be if the damper is scalloped. Many 383 engines are externally balanced. If it's internally balanced and has a 3-3/4" stroke, you can almost assuredly add 6" (or possibly longer) rods to the deal- they're used on internally balanced stroker builds quite often, and a lot more than a 5.7" rod.

If you got a flexplate/flywheel, same thing- externally balanced 383 strokers will have a weight affixed to the plate or the counterweight drilled/cast into the flywheel.

Long shot, but if you can see well enough into the plug hole you might see the part number of the piston.

If this doesn't work for you, pull a head and/or the pan. I would strongly recommend doing this anyway in order to verify exactly what it is you have and to check a few things while you are there:

HERE is a list of valve train points to check, including the valve train geometry (this doesn't require anything but the valve cover to be removed and should be checked before tearing the engine down)

timing set phasing (cam advanced or retarded) and alignment

piston deck height (important for calculating the compression ratio and for setting the correct quench distance)

cam specs/cam part number from the end of the cam

condition of the lifters and cam lobes

bearing condition and oil clearances

rod bearing clearance at the crank fillet

crank end play

oil pick up distance to the bottom of the pan

attachment of the pick up to the oil pump

if a stroker, cam to rod and rod/crank to block clearances

ring end gap

piston to bore clearance

crosshatch pattern in the cylinders, general bore condition

wear patterns on the pistons
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:49 AM
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Right now I have it hanging up on the engine hoist for cleaning and inspection.

The valve covers, oil pan, fly/flex, water pump, distributor, and balancer are off.

Lube oil was retained and looked normal. Slightly brown with no emulsificationor burnt smell. A magnet picked up no ferrous material.

Coolant system has been drained through the block low points (no evidence of sludge or deposits in the jackets or under the t-stat.) Looks like somebody thoroughly acid cleaned the block.

However, other than that internet rumor about the crankshaft, there is nothing to indicate that the engine has been stroked.

I have no experience with the "stroking" process but shouldn't there at least be evidence of alterations? For example, grinding marks on the inner block walls to accomodate the increased crank throw.

I think we can close this thread. Tks to cobalt327 for your suggestions.
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:26 PM
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If the pan's off you should be able to eyeball the crank for a GM casting number. If the crank lacks a GM number, it could be aftermarket, no telling w/o checking what the stroke might be, though.

It sounds to me like you got a good deal if there's no hidden probs, even if it's a bone stock GM engine.

Good luck.
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