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Old 05-11-2004, 06:45 AM
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Have I hurted my engine?

Fellows I need your help here! In a previous post I was asking about a knocking noise from my 383 stroker. Here is a brief description of the situation: I've had the aluminium heads off last fall to send them checked .The exhaust guides were replaced (bronze) then. After reinstalling the heads I had a knocking sound wich wasn't there before taking the heads off. I had disconnected one after the other the wires from the dist. to see if it is a case of dammaged bearings and the sound would keep steady so I guess this erase the bearing possibility;in any case this is a fresh rebuilt motor and normally bearings shouldn't be in the picture.

Searching for the cause I found out that I made an important mistake at the valves adjustement: number one wasn't at TDC....it was on the mark on the damper but the pushrods weren't at same height...consequently I did the adjustement of all the hydraulic valves with this error from beginning...the engine started as this adjusted and was idling decently...I never drove test the car then having only the engine running for few minutes.

When I had discovered my error I readjusted the valves the right way this time. I then checked all the pushrods for straidgtness and they are O.K.. I had not lifted the intake but I've looked at the lifters through the apertures and there is no sign of evident dammage. I've restarted the engine but it still knocks. The oil pressure is normal and steady at around 65 cold idling and the car idles normal with a 12 HG vacuum...

I cannot say exactly where the noise is from but its the engine for sure as it follows the RPMs.Timing is around 8 BTDC.

The heads have been redone by the manufacturer Brodix and I wonder if any thing they could have done to them could explain the knocking?

If a valve would have hit a piston I guess I would have also a bent pushrod?

What should I check next??

thanks,
Ronald.

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Old 05-11-2004, 07:28 AM
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If the knock is very low and metallic it's a bearing.

If the knock is high and high pitched it's valves.

Piston slap is somewhere in between.

Run a compression check, that'll tell you if you have bent valves. My guess is it isn't. Bent valves will cause a loss of compression as well as a miss.
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:50 AM
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there are a few other possibilites. they are not as common, but can happen.

when switching to newer or aftermarket heads sometimes the rockers will actually slightly touch the valve covers. i just had this, a thicker gasket is enough to correct it. it sounds exactly like a loose rod slapping the crank.

if the distributor has been pulled, check to make sure the oil pump drive rod is oriented right and distributor is seated on the intake properly.

definately do the compression check? a stroker has a lot less clearance in there. you should be okay though since you did not remove the timing chain!

i know you said you had the heads off, what else did you change?

you said they were removed to get them checked!
what was the problem to get them checked, that could have to do with it

hope this helps,
31
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Old 05-11-2004, 10:29 AM
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The 383 was consuming oil this is why I had the heads checked and came out the exhaust guides were gone so they replaced them and cleaned them up.

I took off the oil pan to recuperate a small dried up bit of RTV that had fallen down the opened motor while working on it...replaced the pan with a new gasket..I had the opportunity then to see all the clearance work done on the block to accomodate the 383 crank. and rod bolts.

Took off the water pump trying to replace it with a new aftermarket one wich wasn't an exact fit..replaced the old pump.

When you mentionned the distributor shaft in its right orientation...I don't understand it...isn't it only one way to engage that dist. shaft on top the oil pump drive??

The rockers/studs/heads/springs are the same as before and there is no signs of any hitting the valve covers.

Now have I spun a bearing?? That engine did not rotate for 3-4 months ..winter time and I've primed the oil pump with a Moroso priming shaft before firing it up and had the pressure coming up to around 50 psi for 5-10 minutes...this should have had the crank. bearings oily enough??

Spark knocking?? This is old gaz (6 months old) High octane but I had a storage additive to it before storing time...

don't know for sure but it smells High dollar repairs this time!

So much work and money spent it becomes a really bummer situation.

Ronald.

Thinking about what wrong things I might have done...While the oil pan off I hand-turned the engine few times..could this have shot one bearing??

thank you,

Ronald.

Last edited by TVR383; 05-11-2004 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Now have I spun a bearing?? That engine did not rotate for 3-4 months ..winter time and I've primed the oil pump with a Moroso priming shaft before firing it up and had the pressure coming up to around 50 psi for 5-10 minutes...this should have had the crank. bearings oily enough??
letting it it sit for months won't hurt the bearings,...
especially since you primed it, that is farther than i would have gone.

the gas may be a lttile old, but i can't imagine it would produce the sounds you are hearing.

the oil rod has a slot, the distributor has a male piece that slides in, it can be either direction. if the distributor dropped all the way in on the intake, you are okay.
i only mention this cause i have had distributors with oil pump bind and they won't seat right. this after some type block squaring or decking though


Quote:
Thinking about what wrong things I might have done...While the oil pan off I hand-turned the engine few times..could this have shot one bearing??
no... thay are not that fragile.


have you lost any tools lately, hopefully you did not drop anything else down in the motor. like the sealant!

do the new bronze guides show any wear?

31
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