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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goshawks00
Can anyone recommend a good 'fast' drying epoxy so I don't run into these issues?
Barry
Ive use epoxy by SPI, Montana, and Kirker.
They all did good and behaved pretty much the same.
The SPI comes in white, gray and black, I like that because I like to
mix a shade compatible with the final color. I stock white and black.
The Kirker is much thicker, and cheaper.
I like it as well but it doesn't come in white.
But for the money, that Kirker is hard to beat.

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Old 08-28-2008, 11:52 AM
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"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

just water and/or lacquer thinner won't neutralize any remaining (still active/left over) Navel Jelly acid....

wash the panel with a baking soda solution and a scotchbrite then a water rinse....

do agree, temp was the primary problem source and do agree 80 grit makes for a stronger mechanical bond to the steel
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:55 AM
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orange peeled epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by haism007
hello every one


SURFACE PREPARATION AND PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS:


STEP 1: Clean surface with soap and water to remove water soluble residue.
STEP 2: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 3: Hand sand hood to finished surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 4: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 5: Apply the epoxy primer coat (PPG DP Series)*.
STEP 6: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 7: Lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 8: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 9: Apply primer surfacer coat (PPG K36*.
STEP 10: Finish sand the surface with 400 grit sand paper, clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 11: Apply a coat of epoxy primer as a sealer (PPG DP Series)*. NOTE: To use the epoxy primer as a sealer, follow the mixing instructions provided by the manufacturer.
STEP 12: Apply the basecoat (PPG DBU DeltronŽ)*.
STEP 13: Apply clearcoat (PPG DCU 2020)*.
STEP 14: Polish to desired finish.


Hey! I'm repainting my 59 chevy truck and have just sprayed ppg epoxy primer. No mater how i sprayed it, it comes out with orange peel. is this normal? if i then spray the urethane primer and wet sand thats fine, but the say to spray another coat of epoxy over the urathan. then ill be right back to orange peel again! I'm using a hvlp turbine sprayer.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:43 AM
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Scary read.. Last week, Thursday, was also the very first time I have shot Epoxy primer. ..outside, low-70s, medium humidity, sunshine... Stuck them in a shipping container because it's been rainy most of this week.

After reading this, I took a 3M red pad and scuff'd the hell out of a section of the inside of one of these four wheels. Mine seems good. Whew! I sandblasted and simply wiped with DX330 W/G remover.

Transtar 6104 primer is what I used. First time I tried Transtar stuff. I only shoot something a coupla times a year, usually Nason or duPont. I'm going to shoot the finish coats in the next couple of days to take advantage of upper-70's.

Thanks for reminding me about temps. I gather it is better to start with warm product on a warm day in sunshine - if you are stuck outside like me. Thanks for all the good info.

Jim
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longbox
but the say to spray another coat of epoxy over the urathan. then ill be right back to orange peel again! I'm using a hvlp turbine sprayer.
all you need is a sealer coat of epoxy over your urethane,
that's reducing it down as much as 25 to 50%.
With it reduced you shouldn't be getting orange peel.

Make sure you're turbine is not putting out to warm of air
like they're known for, that'll help it peel.
Use a slower reducer too.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:15 AM
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Ditch that laquer thinner as some of it will leave a residue that interferes with adhesion..and warm is good as most of the 2k products will not kick well under 60 degrees..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:24 AM
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i have used a fair share of Omni Epoxys and they are not that great imo.

but like BarryK said it is a temp Problem.

dont over think this.

your cleaning process was good imo.


you final cleaned with PPG 330 which is great cleaner,only other thing i would have done was once finished with the Solvent borne cleaner i would have gone back over it with Waterborne.

but that did not cause the issue.Tempo control did imo.


Best of luck Travis...
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcclark
all you need is a sealer coat of epoxy over your urethane,
that's reducing it down as much as 25 to 50%.
With it reduced you shouldn't be getting orange peel.

Make sure you're turbine is not putting out to warm of air
like they're known for, that'll help it peel.
Use a slower reducer too.
Hey! Thanks! With reducer should i use?
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