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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:38 AM
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I think the air supply is ok i will add one of those mini filters to the gun next time.

I think my problem is to much base coats to get coverage. and not letting it dry enough.

that hand slick rule does not work for this stuff..

just a side note.. I was looking at the area I sanded and buffed today. and it looks like the first picture again.( getting fuzzy) this is so dum.

I am trying to think what I should do to correct this. was thinking to let dry a week then sand. hit new base coat. let dry 2 days then go to the clear. what you all think?

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Old 01-25-2013, 11:55 AM
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No1. With respect to letting your base dry for 2 days before top coating can be a problem as well. Flash times are important but to much flash can give you similar results as not enough flash time. Most major paint manufacturer's recommend clearing base coat with 24 hours of basing and maintaining a temperature of about 70 degree...If your temperature is warmer it would need to be cleared sooner. 2 days may be to much flash time and clear coat adhesion may be a problem down the road. There are so many variables as to how much base you but on will also affect the recoatability time....check your tech sheets.

No.2 Allow more flash time between coats of base...make sure that solvents have evaporated, especially if you have a low hiding color and need multipul coats of base for coverage...pounding base on to get coverage is a recipe for disaster and as BarryK mentioned, solvents coming out of improperly flashed base coat can and will cause your clear to die off or give you that hazy look.

No3. How much air flow have you got in the area that your painting in? To little air flow will cause your base to not flash properly in the manufacturer's recommended times...To much air flow will cause your base to appear to be flashed off when only the top has flashed and the solvents are still trapped underneath and will come out over a period of time after you have cleared the car and have cut and buffed it...you can also have a delamination problem with improperly flashed base coats, when the solvents in the base try to escape, they often take the cured clear with it.

So to answer your questions...lighter coats of base, more flash time between coats of base, make sure your air flow is proper and check your tech sheets for maximum recoatability times.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:48 PM
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I agree with 69 widetrack. 2 days waiting is not good. There are 2 types of adhesion - chemical and mechanical. If the base drys too long, you wont get the chemical adhesion, therefore the base would need to be sanded or scuffed.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:18 PM
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Just to add to "33Willys77", if the base would need to be sanded to achieve mechanical adhesion it would need to be rebased as well, especially if, as you mentioned, your spraying the car a metallic silver.

Ray
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard cash View Post
i use 2k primer sealer yes with approx 10% or less solvent. I use 2k HS clear with no solvent. I use a mix of waterbase and solvent basecoat. Come to think of it, the last two colours i sprayed where this was apparent was a royal blue and black, both in solvent. I use the same slow speed reducer for everything.

The bonnet i did recently had a reaction with some previous paint and i had to dry flat this and spray the colour on really dry. I managed to get the colour on ok after about 10-12coats of real thin base, then cleared again with no solvent. The day after the hazing effect was quite apparent, probably the most noticable ive ever see it.

oldBodyman, your comments are the most interesting and i will definatly try leaving the base over night to see what happens!<wasnt that Barry that suggested that, not obm?>
Do yourself a favor and
1: take Barry's advice.
2: use SPI primers and clears and SPI base whenever possible and save some of your Looneys and have great results.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:06 AM
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what kind of clear are you using? Is it being shot with humidity in the air (garage or outside) is it a forced dry clear or a air dry clear? ARe you using the right reducers/hardeners for the proper temperatures?
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