Head+Cam upgrade Suggestions for 79 Z28 With Victor Jr.and 800 AVS Carb - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6sally6
If he crazy for the rumpity-rump(I know I am!) sound tell-em about Isky cams. They are ground on a 108LSA(thats where the rumpity-rump comes from...a tight LSA)
If you think this through completely, you may realize that there is insufficient cylinder pressure at overlap to make the rump-rump of the piston shoving the fuel/air mixture back up the intake tract with the intake valve still open. The fact is that when a cam is ground on a tight LSA, it is also ground with an extended intake closing point and that's what makes the rump-rump, the mixture being shoved back past the venturis.....and the venturis will add still more fuel to the mixture because they cannot sense that the mixture is going the wrong way. They see movement and sense a low pressure area, so they add fuel. Once the motor gets up in the rpm range a little, it "gets up on the cam" and the motor smooths out with mixture going only one way.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 02:53 PM
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Impressive post Doublevision, thanks for taking the time to put this valuable information ! Nice to start the year learning !
I didn't know thumper cams were "poser" cams, i learned it here. I might ask you for advice when we get there to tune it correctly because i really want to see my friend with a permagrin ! The Carb and Intake were pulled off today
and my friend is ready for replacements, he will keep the stock cam for now,but he wants something that he might be able to grow up in the very next future with new heads and cam and plenty of power for the street.

600 CFM Performer Carb is a must , we had that in the past and it's real real good.
Intake choice is pending...
Thanks Guys !

Bye Bye Victor !
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:06 AM
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What you guys think of this kits ?


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-20214/
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-20224/
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:41 AM
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355 Gen I Chevy street motor, budget build....
Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Align-hone or align-bore the main bearing bore, then cut the block decks to whatever block deck height you need to fit your stack of parts and set the piston deck height where you want it. This will square everything up and allow you to build on a solid block. If you will also equalize the chambers, you will come closer to having a motor that makes equal power from cylinder to cylinder.
Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter. I would cut it 0.010"/0.010" just to make sure the journals are parallel with each other and round.
Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end.
Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic, part #KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018".
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/p...tails&P_id=155
Heads: RHS Pro Torquer Vortec 170-64 (part number 12407), 1.94" intake, 1.50" exhaust.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...407&variation=
These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds. They are drilled and tapped for both types. Fill 'em with valves, springs, retainers and keepers from Competition Products. They have inexpensive kits.
Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM #7101, or Professional Products Typhoon.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...7101&x=12&y=13
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-P...5616644&sr=1-6
Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM.
Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
Camshaft: CompCams flat tappet hydraulic 260H: [1], installed straight up.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust.
Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
Squish: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025".
RPM HP TQ
1000 59 310
1500 103 361
2000 150 395
2500 192 402
3000 246 431
3500 306 459
4000 360 473
4500 407 475
5000 442 464
5500 453 433
6000 450 394

Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm's and a 3.73 gear. Check out the 395 ft/lbs of torque at about 2000 rpm's. In my opinion, this makes the perfect street 350.

Last edited by techinspector1; 01-03-2012 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:47 AM
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Looks GREAT !!!!
But the Iron heads would make shipping real expensive because we are overseas, is there a Alum version for those heads or something similar ?
Thanks !
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calderone
Looks GREAT !!!!
But the Iron heads would make shipping real expensive because we are overseas, is there a Alum version for those heads or something similar ?
Thanks !
What you save on the iron heads over aluminum will pay for the freight and then some. Buying bare heads and the valve kits and assembling them yourself, you will have around US$800 invested in two complete, ready-to-bolt-on heads. Freight can't be that costly. Check with a freight forwarder in L.A. or Miami. There might be a container coming your way and the shipper might let your parts ride along for cheap.

Forgot to add this tips and tricks article for flat tappet cams....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

Last edited by techinspector1; 01-03-2012 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
This combo will be hard pressed to make 375hp. 390ft/lbs torque
going down a steep hill.

Don't know where you get this stuff. But its pure BS.
What you mean ?
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
What you save on the iron heads over aluminum will pay for the freight and then some. Buying bare heads and the valve kits and assembling them yourself, you will have around US$800 invested in two complete, ready-to-bolt-on heads. Freight can't be that costly. Check with a freight forwarder in L.A. or Miami. There might be a container coming your way and the shipper might let your parts ride along for cheap.

Forgot to add this tips and tricks article for flat tappet cams....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
Inspector , thanks !
My friend does not want bare heads , neither Iron, the bare head price is unbeatable but he wants to save time as well and have alum heads.
Sorry,it's not that i don't like your suggestion,i appreciate it , but it's my friend's car and he wants that. Around 400 hp would be just fine.
Thanks once again !
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
This combo will be hard pressed to make 375hp. 390ft/lbs torque
going down a steep hill.

Don't know where you get this stuff. But its pure BS.
Thank you for your comment. I get the same feeling about your locked-out ignition timing for a street motor.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:20 PM
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and what does a hill have to do with how much horsepower ur making,u make no sense.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:25 PM
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We are finally going with this basic 600 cfm and basic intake kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-20214/
Would be the best for the street since he has the stock cam and heads yet.
we will get heads and cam later ...
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