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Old 03-22-2005, 05:49 PM
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head gasket replacement now car won't start

about a week now Ive been messing w/ this stupid !@%^& car & I'm starting to loose my cool I need some advice other than "I don't know". that's what everybody ask for some input tells me. atleast I know some of you guy's have a brain & some more experience than I do. it was always toold that 2 heads are better than 1, but the whole U.S nation is better than 2, right? Ok heres the problem:

1st:after putting the head gasket on and the whole top end back on car wouldn't start. ok it was out of time, so i put it back in perfect time (so i thaught). then car quit turning over, ok so I hooked up the ol jumper cables to another car. the car just clicked & would not turn over to save it's life, ok maybe the starter was bad, so I bought a new srarter. car still wouldn't turn over, ok the ol dreaded "lets see if the motor locked up" thaught came about , i put the ratchet on the underdrive pully it turned freely, ok the motor isn't locked up. so i packed it up for the night (2 days ago) but before i came in for the night i thaught i should move the car since i live in apartment complex so it wouldn't look like my car was still sitting threre broke (and if they towed it I'd be really pissed because it's probably the nicest car i've owned). ok i moved it , but when i moved it i put it in reverse instead of neutral when i pushed it backwards in to another parking spot, and out of courosity i tryed to start it 1 more time and it turned fine just wouldn't start. so the next day i checked the timing it was a tooth off, so i put it back in time and it still wouldn't start. the battery started to go dead again so out comes the ol jumper cables again.. i let it charge for about 4-5min. and tryed it again it turn over for a second or two than started this clicking $$##@ again then it just flat out stoped clicking and everything, it dosn,t make any noise when attempting to start.

where did i go wrong? some advice has gotta be better than "i don't know" please help me

oh ya this might help you to help me it's a 92 roadmaster (5.7 350 Throttle Body injected)

thanx
jesse

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Old 03-22-2005, 05:54 PM
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Check your grounds. Check your power wires. Make sure the battery is full. You need to be sure your timing is set accurate. Make sure you have 12 volts to the coil, and that all the sensors are properly hooked up.

Have someone play with the distributor as your cranking the engine. Also, did you set the valves properly?

There are a number of things it could be. You just need to start eliminating them 1 by 1.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:02 PM
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1st thank you so much for not saying " i don't know"
the ground from the driver side head was so corroded it crumbled when i took it off, but i made a ground for the time being out of a heavy guage wire

I can't even get the car to crank over now to check the timing

i just snuged all rockers down till the all the lash was gone from the pushrods and was going to fine tune the rocker later
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:06 PM
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Check the static voltage at the battery a fully charged battery has 12.6 volts. If it wont crank you must have a bad battery or most likely a bad connection. Given that it was cranking before you worked on it. Make certain those side post terminals are CLEAN and TIGHT! they will corrode badly and you wont see it till they are removed esp if you have a piggy back cable on the positive side. If that doesn't work try jumping the small wire at the starter to power. If it cranks you have a ign switch problem be shure when you try this the key isn't on or the car is in gear!
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:00 PM
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Can you explain further your comment about "snugged the rockers down".

If you didn't set them properly, some of your valves may not be opening.
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:08 PM
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First things first...

Doc here,

The very first thing you HAVE to do is get the starting system up to par!

Replace the battery Cables Altogether, And if the Ground Cable is mounted to the frame, Don't re~attach it there.

Move the new ground cable to any handy bolt on or near the starter on the block.

From this bolt, run a 10 ga wire to the firewall and ground it.

Run another to the alternator mount and ground it.

Next while your getting your new battery cables, pick up a 3 foot ground cable with "Ring" terminals on both ends, this you will attach at the starter ground bolt to the frame.

Everywhere you Bolt a ground, use a star washer, and burnish away all the paint from the area.

Be sure ALL your connections are tight.

Charge your battery 6 to 10 hours on a standard battery charger, Your not getting a full charge by jumping it and letting it "Charge" 10 or so minutes...your just getting a surface charge, the first time you throw any current at it , it will drop right off...

When all that's done, using a meter or test lamp hook it up to your BATT wire (assuming HEI) then turn the key on./ You should light the light or read 12 volts on the meter. Next Crank it, If it goes away while you crank, you have a secondary Ignition problem, To test, just hook a wire from the battery directly to the BATT terminal, and start it. If it starts or acts like it wants to, you need to run a wire from the "I" terminal on your solenoid to the power wire to your distributer.

If all above is good, hook up any timing light to ANY plug wire and crank, If it has any spark, it will strobe the light...(better than getting zapped holding the wire!)

No fire to the plugs but good coil power, check the engine module, (test it at about any auto parts store, and have them do it several times no just once. )

If that is good suspect the Pole piece pickup inside the distributer, for this you need to get a manual for the spec on the resistance readings or ask the parts guy while your there.Measure it for spec, and if out, pull the distributer , disassemble the shaft and gear and replace it.

If it's Fire That should get you running, try a bit of start fluid, so you don't make the start system work any harder than it needs to.

If it's all good but won't run, post back and let us know, It will most likely be a fuel problem.

Hope it was better than "I don't friggen know"

Doc
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:22 PM
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another thing to check on the battery is to go to radio shack and buy a cheap voltmeter. have someone test the voltage on the battery while you start (called a load test by the way) if you have a big drop down on voltage your battery needs to be replaced, and probably has a shorted cell. thats why it wont jump start very well. and like doc says make sure your ground connection is good and not to the frame.
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:34 PM
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dead battery

Quote:
when i moved it i put it in reverse instead of neutral when i pushed it backwards in to another parking spot, and out of courosity i tryed to start it 1 more time and it turned fine just wouldn't start
As Doc Vette pointed out jumping the car won't charge it. What happened was the starter bendix got stuck in the ring gear. Because the battery was dead. The starter would not turn. You did not hear a click because the bendix was already engaged. When you moved the car. The bendix disengaged from the ring gear.
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Old 03-23-2005, 05:10 PM
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1st of all thanx doc you reaaly have been a tremendous help
and evrybody else thank's for every bit of input you gave me you guy's are GREAT!

Anyway I just steped foot in the door and I'm kinda stuck inside for the night b/c it looks like it's getting ready to rain but when i get off work tom. I'll start eliminating some of these prob.'s 1 by 1 and if it still won't run after all the advice you guy's gave me I'll be really p/off but i think you guy's really narrowed it down for me (by what i should do) I'll definetly let you guy's know what happenes

thanx a million

jesse
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Old 03-23-2005, 05:19 PM
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I also have another question about a totally different subject if you guy's don't mind jumping off subject for a sec.

I recently bought a set of Keith black pistons for my 383 I'm re-building ,but they already come w/ rods there "pressed pin" rods. can i take those rods out and put "full floating pin" rods in these pistons? or do these pistons have to have pressed pin rods since they came w/ these rods already in them?
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Old 04-28-2007, 05:53 AM
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BY now you probably have car running I hope. On the valves there is a cold setting that will allow you to set the valves real close before starting the engine most car manuals like chiltons ,motors ,or haynes has this method .383 pistons if they are press fit thier not designed for snap rings that are used in full floating . If your not taking the motor apart alot just use the pressed pistons if they will work in your engine Good Luck.
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