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Old 05-02-2006, 11:56 PM
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head light hell

Howdy to all!!
I have a '31 Ford model A coupe with a Chevy 350,a turbo 350 trans,A Painless wiring harness (model 90501) a very bare bones car ..but hey..it's "legal"!
My problem is the head lights. I just replaced the King bees(sealed halogens) with a set of Vintique '34 commercial lights with quarts bulbs and built in directionals. I didnt change them because I had a problem, I changed them for a different look.
Anyway...the brights seem to be fine but the low beams are not very bright at all ..almost sort of brown. I wired it up just like the king bees... But, if I disconnect one of the head lights, the other one seems to work fine!
What the heck am I doing wrong?
feelin Dumb...Uncle Dave

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Old 05-03-2006, 12:21 AM
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I would have guessed that the repro reflector is the culprit except that you say the low beam gets brighter when you disconnect the other bulb.So given that, I would check my connections and voltage when the lights are on.

I know that the commercial reflector sucks, and even with a halogen bulb it's performance is crappy.
We had a 34 coupe with the comm buckets and couldn't get them to work right, until we got the new recurved reflector from bob drake. I still think the sealed beams worked better.
Hope this helps, mikey
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BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
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Old 05-03-2006, 12:26 AM
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head light hell

It sounds like the power going to the low beams is not being split to each light but going through one light and then to the next thus you are not getting full power to each light. Series vs. parallel. If they worked correctly before then you probably somehow mixed up the wiring.

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Old 05-03-2006, 03:13 AM
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Doc here,

Most likely your drawing more current than the system can handle stock..with the new lamps..

Is your headlight system relay operated? If not it should be..THE STOCK wire for standard headlight operation will be underrated for the new draw.

You need to connect a relay for each lamp to the headlight power wire now , to power the relay coil, and ground the otherside of he relay to a good body ground.

The normally open contact Will get a 10 gauge wire via a proper fuse link , to the battery power tie point..

The center wiper of the relay will go via 10 gauge wire to the headlamp socket..

In this configuration you Will deliver more current to the headlights (hence brighter lights) and lower the chance of harness overheat and meltdown or fire.

Check each headlight for proper ground bonding also..be sure it is a good ground, and attached with a star washer, burnish the paint and dirt from the ground point..and it is secure.

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Old 05-03-2006, 05:43 AM
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"check simple first"....
is it the lamp reflector or the car wiring (doc' current draw/grounds post) or bad lamps

rig a 14 amp* fuse to a #10 jumper wire, connect batt plus to low beam post at the lamp with the lamp ground still attached

bright=car wiring
dim=attach a ground jumper lamp ground to batt grd
still dim=reflector or bad bulb

*amps fuse minumum= lamp watts on the bulb x 2 lamps /12V (ex:55W x 2 / 12=9amp
("should" work with a just a 10amp fuse on the jumper (2 55W's=9amp)....)

if 2 55W lamps did blow the 14 amp fuse= exchange for new lamps, plug in whatever your lamp watts are to figure the amps
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:26 PM
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Normally when the lights are dim it indicates a bad ground. How were the old housings grounded compared to the new grounds???
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