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Old 04-20-2007, 12:08 PM
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Head Porting

I understand what it means to port cylinder heads, but what is actually all invoved in a port/polish head job. Must a machine shop always do the work, or can it be done at home?? Whats the average price to have this done? I am kinda green at this stuff but trying to learn.

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Old 04-20-2007, 03:08 PM
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Doc here,

This forum is for questions about problems with the site..you won't get tech answers here..

you need to post questions of this type in Basic Hot-roding forums.

Doc
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 428BIRD
I understand what it means to port cylinder heads, but what is actually all invoved in a port/polish head job. Must a machine shop always do the work, or can it be done at home?? Whats the average price to have this done? I am kinda green at this stuff but trying to learn.
i ported my own heads. its a dirty nasty PITA job.

do research on the heads you want to port. get the tools. and take your time.
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:30 AM
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Here is a good article on DIY porting.
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Old 04-22-2007, 11:29 AM
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Porting is very rewarding and relatively easy to do if you have the right tools
and some skill. First you need to learn the basics, get a old head to practice
on. Learn how to pocket port, improving the bowl under the valve. Most
heads have a push rod pinch, learn what this means and how to improve
flow around the pinch. It's fairly easy to pick up 50 HP by porting a set of
stock heads.

Here's a set of cleveland heads I'm wotking on:



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Old 04-25-2007, 01:47 PM
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hey thanks guys. I am thinkin I might tackle the job myself, have good die grinders etc. Anybody know about nice kits I could purchase to simplify this process??
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Old 04-25-2007, 02:16 PM
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There are many kits available. You can "google" "head porting kits" and get lots of hits.
There are lots on eBay too.

You will need an 1/8" chuck grinder (Dremel type) for most of the kits. (The shaft size of the carbide cutters and sandpaper mandrels sets the size of the chuck needed. )

Porting sounds easy but there is a lot involved. Doing it wrong can ruin a head or reduce the flow too! Plus it's very messy.

I did a set on my recent 355, here is a link to mine.
My 882 heads.

Mark
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Old 04-25-2007, 02:37 PM
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Head Porting

As an inexperienced porter I would really think twice about messing with the area called the short radius. This is the area extending from the valve, radiusing into the port floor. Personally I just barely remove any casting slag if there is any and leave the short radius at that. I agree get a book and make sure you understand it. A quality set of valves and springs can do a lot for hp.

Bob
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:30 PM
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Yeah you can port heads your self the bowls you have to guess but on the exhaust ports and intake ports hog them out to gasket match,just be really precise hers some tools you might need
-3in.&6in. carbide bits
-Die Grinder
-dremel
-sand paper(100 Grit)
-sanding drums
-sanding stones for dremel
-dremel flapper wheels
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 428BIRD
Anybody know about nice kits I could purchase to simplify this process??
I went to summit and picked up these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900240/
and these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1060/

and went to harbor freight and got http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44141

I use the carbide cutters to removal large areas of metal and then I use cartridge rolls to smooth it all out.
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:04 AM
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DO NOT GET THE STANDARD ABRASIVES KIT. I made the mistake of getting one and after hat I used 3M reglite cartridge rolls and the 3M ones are the BEST I've ever used. They cost about 30% more but last about 3 times as long and have a much more consistent finish.

You don't need more than 1 carbide bit, having two make its easier but you can do anything yu need to do wit a 3/8" double cut round nose cylinder bit with a 6" shank (cut the shank down to 4" before you even think of using it though). If you want you can also get a 3/8" tree bit on a standard length shank, this one helps some but is not totally necessary. I have about a dozen bis and I use these two 95% of the time.

Get the 3M 1/2" straight reglite (orange) cartridge rolls, and a 4" mandrel, get two mandrels incase one bends, they're only like $2 so its worth getting an extra though I have 3 mandrels tat have lasted through a lto of work so far.

you also need to get a solid 1/4" electric die grinder- NOT A DREMEL. Dremels aren't worth sh1t when it comes to this work. The long nose one that Harbor Freight sells is actaully pretty stout and you can get a 1 year warranty for an additional $10. The unit itself is on sale from time to time for less than $30. While you're there you need to pick up a rheostat too. Those are about $10 and this is another item where people will say you can skip it but they are full of bull. You need it to control the speed, and speed control is very critical.

Finally you need to get a cheap tube of chapstick, maybe two. The nonscented, plain jane, cheapest crap you could find kind. what you're going to use it for is a lubricant. After the carbide grinding and a quick evening with a cartridge roll you can apply it to the walls and go bac over it with the cartridge roll on the slowest speed yu can dial it in to. You'll get a real nice even texture and with alittle pracitce can have professional looking results. The last step isn't really critical to performance but if you plan on showing your work to someone it makes an impression. The pro's do it mostly as marketing, people want nice looking ports regardless of performance.

In total you need
grinder
rheostat
a dozen 1/2" reglite rolls
2 cartridge roll mandrels
1 or 2 carbide bits
chapstick


If you plan on doing "gasket matching" you also should get some cheap layout fluid from Harbor Freight while you're there.

For chamber work you may want to get some stones, it mostly depends on the quality of your valve job and casting, Vortecs for example area relatively clean casting for OEM stuff and you don't need stones, other castings are easier to do with stones, but can be sufficently done with jut cartridge rolls- here's you're not really worried about being smooth and shiney just have a nice even trasition off the valve job.
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:46 AM
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You sure as hell do not want to port an entire set of heads w/a Dremel- not that you couldn't- it would be too slow. But personally, I think Dremel-type rotary grinders definitely have their place in head porting.

I use (for an example) a flex-shaft on a Dremel for finishing the guides- the business end of the flex shaft isn't very large at all so will reach most anywhere.

The consumables can be expensive, comparatively speaking, if you use 'store-bought'. Making grinding rolls is easy. If you have a few mandrels left over from used up stones, for instance, you can roll them up in a minute- if you're slow. Course you have to wait till the adhesive dries. I also use Erector set axles- they come in lengths up to 18", but 4" or 5" is plenty (you can also use a piece of 1/8" round stock from Home Depot, cut to length). I seldom use stones for anything when porting heads- that's for the die grinder.

The Ryobi tool shown is IMO a LOT better tool than an equivalent Dremel. My tool is prolly 15 years old; new Dremels have soft start and load sensing, etc. Whether or not they're better than the variable speed Ryobi I use, I cannot say.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You sure as hell do not want to port an entire set of heads w/a Dremel- not that you couldn't- it would be too slow. But personally, I think Dremel-type rotary grinders definitely have their place in head porting.

I use (for an example) a flex-shaft on a Dremel for finishing the guides- the business end of the flex shaft isn't very large at all so will reach most anywhere.

The consumables can be expensive, comparatively speaking, if you use 'store-bought'. Making grinding rolls is easy. If you have a few mandrels left over from used up stones, for instance, you can roll them up in a minute- if you're slow. Course you have to wait till the adhesive dries. I also use Erector set axles- they come in lengths up to 18", but 4" or 5" is plenty (you can also use a piece of 1/8" round stock from Home Depot, cut to length). I seldom use stones for anything when porting heads- that's for the die grinder.

The Ryobi tool shown is IMO a LOT better tool than an equivalent Dremel. My tool is prolly 15 years old; new Dremels have soft start and load sensing, etc. Whether or not they're better than the variable speed Ryobi I use, I cannot say.
yeah actuallyt you can honestly its going to take longer but im sure he would want it done nice.
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