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Old 04-20-2005, 03:13 PM
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Header Clearance Issues with Pitman Arm

'69 Mustang coupe
351W with Hedman long-tubes

Here's the deal. My no. 1 cylinder header tube is having a clearance problem with my factory '69 Mustang pitman arm. They make contact when I make a hard right and actually twist the motor to the side. I know it's only a matter of time before repeat stress will screw up my header flanges, so I want to get this done as safely as possible.

I am in the process of upgrading the factory drums in the front to a Granada disc setup in the front, so I'm going to have to change out my tie-rod ends soon anyway.

As far as my header issue goes, I only see one of 2 options. Either modify the pitman arm to accommodate the tube, or cut the header tube and weld in a new bend to route around the pitman arm.

I may consider going to a rack and pinion setup if I know that the pitman arm won't be an issue. But as long as the stock steering box is still there, I think I'm doomed to use the pitman. Also, if I can't find a resolution soon, I'll be forced to do what I don't really want to. Which would be to go with shortys. I REALLY want to have the long tubes there for when I increase my top-end with better heads and a cam down the road.

I don't want a quick fix for now. What do you guys recommend?

BTW Sorry I've been away for a while, but I miss hanging out. Hope everyone is doing well.



MoocH
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:22 PM
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Is it the actual Pitman arm hitting or the actual steering valve/cylinder hitting? Below is a photo of PN 20120 to lower the actual drag link/power valve on the setup.



Are you sure you have the correct set? Their catalog is showing stock engine and swap engine (I don't know what the difference would be).
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:06 PM
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Stock steering assembly. And the only thing I have on the headers (I got from a friend for $50) are that they are for a 351w. As far as clearance goes, I just bolted them up to make sure that they would fit side to side.

Yes, the collector tube does contact with the steering valve bushing. But it only rubs the rubber a little. Since the car had power steering at one time, I just cut the lines and left it blank, so I'm not too concerned with keeping the power option in tact.

I think I might just re-route the no.1 cyl tubing to the collector. A buddy of mine has a set of hooker long tubes for a chevy that he's giving to me (flanges are all bent and warped from an accident). I'll just see how it goes I guess.

Thanks for the response though. Any other ideas? I'm not 100% sure this is the best way to go about this.





MoocH
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:49 PM
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I'm sorry. Does the actual pitman arm or the control valve hit the tube? You said the interference was so bad that it actually moves the engine?
________________________________________


________________________________________

Can you show me where it actually makes contact? The bracket kit (PN 20120) is designed to lower the mounting point for the assist cylinder (Basic PN 3A540).

If you do not want the power assist, have you thought of converting to M/S? It may be after time that the P/S box will fail as it was not designed to operate the steering linkage without the power assist. Get rid of a lot of weight also.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:35 PM
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On that diagram, it's part # 3590. And yes, it will push the engine to the side if I turn the wheel all the way. I found out the hard way on a test run out of the neighborhood when I got on it. The whole car veered to the right and I had to correct myself to the left a little in the wheel just to keep it straight under acceleration. As soon as I let off the gas, the car would fling to the left again.

It wasn't a pretty sight keeping it in my lane at 50mph.



MoocH
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