[gearheadslife]

Originally Posted by 632Mantis

I have a big block with the same issues. And I'm not even running large primary tubes. I'm running Hooker Comp headers, and they snake around the starter. Takes me all day to change my starter. I have to pull the dipstick tube, the tranny cooler lines, the plugs and wires on that side, and remove the header. Then I have to remove the heat wrap, so I can SEE the starter. Last starter I put in it lasted 6 months. I'm going to buy a better starter next time, and put more Thermo-Tec wrap on the tubes. It has some on there now, but it could use more. BB race motors eat starters.

not when you add a fan and a duct to force air over the starter..

[55for65]

I had the same experience with a new 496, would not start when hot. Put three new (rebuilt) units in with same result. Installed a Ford Selonid on fairwall to run full battery power to starter, haven't had a problem since. I was not convenced this would work but it did.

[1971BB427]

BBC do seem to go through starters if they are high compression motors. I used to go through them all the time in my 427 when it was 11:1 cr, but once I dropped it down to 9.5:1 it literally stopped eating starters. I've had the same starter in the car for 13 yrs. now.
I have Doug Thorley headers on my '71 Camaro, and I can pull a starter and replace it wihtout moving anything. I had the first set of Doug's headers on the car from 1974 until this year, and just replaced them with another set of Doug's headers, and they fit equally well.

[632Mantis]

Originally Posted by 55for65

I had the same experience with a new 496, would not start when hot. Put three new (rebuilt) units in with same result. Installed a Ford Selonid on firewall to run full battery power to starter, haven't had a problem since. I was not convenced this would work but it did.

Wow. I need to give this a try. I wouldn't think it would work either, but I would be willing to give it a shot! Easy enough to do.

Problem could be the solenoid on the starter. It's in the heat too.
Remote mounted solenoid is away from the heat.

I always thought it was the starter motor itself cooking and going out.
But it could be solenoid related. We'll see. I'll try it out and see what happens. I need to figure something out. Tired of this issue.

[632Mantis]

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

I have Doug Thorley headers on my '71 Camaro, and I can pull a starter and replace it without moving anything. I had the first set of Doug's headers on the car from 1974 until this year, and just replaced them with another set of Doug's headers, and they fit equally well.

Lucky you.

These Hooker Comps I have make the power, but they are all over the place. The left side is great, but the right side header is in the way of everything.

[Jim Rockford]

DO NOT USE HEADER WRAP!!! it will ruin the metal the tubes are made of.

[AutoGear]

Header wraps will retain moisture and cause the above problem. Not a huge issue on an off the shelf header; but this could be a big problem for trick, one-off, super money headers. No one mentioned a ceramic coat INSIDE and out. I think sending your headers out to be coated in and outside will push the heat farther down the pipe. This will also fight corrosive compounds that the wrap retains. However, pushing that amount of heat farther down the system may cause damage elsewhere unless addressed (Stainless downstream of the headers). And the lowest point in the system will retain moisture/ corrosive compounds, so plan for that and make it easier to remove. If you have an X pipe or Cross Over, make sure its flanged so you can work on half the system.

If you value your headers, ceramic coat both the ID and OD. Im not a 'Jet Hot' brand fan, but that's just me. Do not drop them...its ceramic and sounds like you dropped your favorite coffee mug, except it costs a LOT more to fix.

http://www.madscientistcoating.com/

Thats the guy that used to do a lot of work on our race snowmobiles (Dyno Port inc.). I used him because he's local and I felt comfortable with his recommendations.

[632Mantis]

Lots of different opinions on this subject.
My headers were cheap. I did not wrap all of them, just the areas that are near the starter.
Much of the header on the right side is not wrapped.

It would take a long time for the wrap to damage the headers.
Takes hardly any time at all for the HEAT to damage the starter though.



I think my biggest problem was choosing an offset gear reduction starter.
This configuration seems to place the starter motor itself closer to the header tubes.
I have decided to just get another starter and replace it. I will go with an IN-LINE starter this time. I might even spring for a Tilton, not sure yet.

[jpekarek]

I went and picked up a replacement starter from Chucks. The old one was from Schucks so it has a lifetime warranty. I have to use a starter from a ’01 or ’02 Suburban w-BBC. That is one of the few starters with an offset bolt pattern and it is a mini high torque already, my block is a Rhear and Morrison and has the weird starter bolt configuration. It cranks my big old engine OK. I am not running very high compression, only 10:1, but there are a lot of cubes and an high lift roller cam with ridiculous valve springs which makes it a little hard to crank, but not really bad.

I ordered the aluminum Moroso heat shield and will partially wrap the header pipe that gets close to the starter. If this fails, I will sell the headers and install some Doug Thorley’s where they can run down behind the engine and not cause a problem. Project for next weekend, this weekend I will be freezing in the mountains “claiming” that I am hunting.

[ChevroletSS]

Be very careful I actually had this same problem in my truck where the exhaust manifold was touching the starter wire and it cought on fire. Had to use a fire extinguisher to put it out. Since you have a custom header I dont know but see if you can reloacte how the starter wire is coming to the starter. It helps to get under the vehicle. You can see more. If not I would try to make an aluminum heat sheild.