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Old 02-12-2006, 11:46 AM
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Headlight Switch

I Am Rewiring A 52 Ford With An Ezwire Harness. Well I Want To Use The Original Head Light Switch But I Dont Know Witch Terminal Is Witch. Does Anyone Have An Idea. Also I Am Thinking Of Changing To A Hei Distribator From A Duraspark Electronic System. Is There An Advantage Other Than Just One Wire Hook Up?

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Old 02-12-2006, 01:53 PM
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If the original harness is still in the car, you can identify the main hot feed terminal on the switch by using a voltmeter. This terminal will always hot as long as the battery is connected and fuses are OK. You can use any source of voltage like a 9 volt radio battery.

Make a sketch and mark it as you proceed to identify the various terminals.

With voltage applied to hot feed, pull (operate) the switch to it's first step (parking lights). Again, using the voltmeter, identify the terminal that goes hot.

Then pull the switch to the headlight position and identify the terminal that goes hot.

If the switch has a dash light control, You need to determine if a terminal goes hot as you twist the knob. Or, it may be controlling the dash lights on the ground side. If it is controlling on the ground side, one of the terminals will go the chassis ground. The remaining terminal will be the dash light (control) wire.

If the switch has a courtesy light feature, identify which terminal goes hot, as above, by operating the switch.

HEI distributors are very good and repair and upgrade parts available. I Don't know about Duraspark.

vicrod
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Old 02-12-2006, 03:27 PM
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Doc here,

Pre 1980 HEI Distributes are Very simple and user friendly. Dura Spark has a higher part count (and Wire count) Which leaves more to go wrong.

Also unlike AFTERMARKET Dizzy's available on the market today, You can always get or test a module at the Local parts store..With like MSD you can't..you are at their and the postal service mercy for replacement parts unless you have a "Mom & Pop" that actually stocks parts.

For a Weekend Warrior, or a grocery Getter, The Simple HEI is a good solid reliable Distributer. It's reasonable to 5500 RPM. One item you can upgrade to better it though, Is the Coil.

Toss the Epoxy Coil and replace it with an Oil filled coil. The Oil Filled coil has the ability to sink heat, whereas the epoxy coated can not..This results in higher internal cap & Module temps, and more stress on the module. Modules and Coils will fail over time (Sooner) from heat.

On the light switch, After you test and pin orient it as Vicrod suggested, your EZ harness is supposed to be GM wire code indexed..So If the plug pin function isn't detailed in your instruction packet, you Should be able to refer to a GM light switch to convert the plugs. Takes half of the detective work out..

Doc
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Old 02-13-2006, 07:46 AM
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Headlight Switch

Thanks For The Info, But The Original Wiring Harness Was In Very Bad Shape. Little Or No Inselation. Thats Why I Am Replacing It. I Have The Switch In Hand On Have Tested It With An Ome Meter But That Only Tells Me Headlights And Parking Lights. What Are The Other Terminals For?
Ed
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Old 01-13-2007, 01:56 AM
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Unanswered post??

I have the same question as Old Rivers,except on a 54 Ford sedan most of the wiring is missing and I need to have a diagram of the terminals,Doc,can ya help???
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Old 01-13-2007, 07:17 AM
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It is possible that the original HL switch has 2 separate battery feeds, one for the headlamps, and one for the other functions.

Cannot say say the ford is the same or even close, but---

Terminal for taillamps, terminal for park lamps, Terminal for dash lamps, Terminal for headlamps, Terminal for interior lamps.

Bryan
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Old 01-13-2007, 08:41 AM
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I recently rewired a friends 56 merc with one of those wiring kits and used the original headlight switch and I think the switch is lettered,B is for battery,H for headlights and P for parking lights and there could be a D for dash lights. If its not marked a ohm meter will tell you whats going on,you will have to take the switch out to see the lettering. Usually the big terminal is for the battery and the others are for the various lights,pull the knob out and use the ohm meter to see what terminals are working and go from there to make sure the switch actually works as that is what I done with the original headlight switch on my 37 chevy even though it was marked. Jeff
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
I have the same question as Old Rivers,except on a 54 Ford sedan most of the wiring is missing and I need to have a diagram of the terminals,Doc,can ya help???

Doc here, \

Not being a FORD guy, the oldest Ford diagram I could find is 57..but it SHOULD be the same as far as wire color and terminal letters..

Go here:Ford 57 And check it against yours..The switch is bottom center of the diagram.

Be advised, If most of your wire is missing, it (if you follow it out) goes through at least 2 junction blocks before it gets to the dim switch and lighting system, so you want to be sure all that is in tact also, for it to work properly.

HOPE IT HELPS! Good luck!

Doc
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