I painted a couple of engine parts (fan and shroud) with Rustoleum High Heat Paint rated for 1200 degrees about 2 weeks ago. They won't be installed for another couple months. Meanwhile, I spoke to the manager at Rustoleum and he informed me that I was supposed to heat cure the items an hour after the last coat, but that is not instructed on the can. He said it must go up to 350 degrees for an hour to cure it. Wish they wrote that somewhere.
My question is: Can I heat cure 2 weeks later when the items have just been sitting or is it a lost cause and I need to strip and sandblast again? The fan was painted aluminum and the shroud black.
10-08-2012 07:45 PM
I wouldn't worry about it. Number 1, you painted the fan and shroud, not much heat there. Number 2, I've painted engines with the same paint I used on the body without any problems. If your painting exhaust parts like manifolds or headers, then use a high heat product.
10-08-2012 07:50 PM
The tech manager told me that the paint won't even stay on no matter what the temperature is unless it's cured with heat. I wanted to put a gloss engine enamel over the flat high heat and he told me since the first layer needs to be cured, it will all come off. Does that make any sense?
10-08-2012 08:12 PM
I'm not to familiar with rustoleum but here's a test. Take a piece of masking tape and tape it to a part that you just painted. Push really hard on the tape, back and forth so you've got the tape sticking really good. Lift up a corner and peel it off quickly, like a woman does when she waxes her legs. If the masking paint doesn't pull the paint off, you should be OK. If it does, strip it and use a different product that doesn't require baking for adhesion.
10-08-2012 08:35 PM
Great advice!!! And good comparison, as well :D
10-08-2012 09:01 PM
Thanks , Let me know how it works out for you
10-08-2012 10:47 PM
I used Rustoleum 2000 deg. high heat paint on my cyl. heads....507" Cadillac and the portion of the head is where the header bolts to is basically an extention of the exhaust port. The directions on the cans...both primer and top coat says nothing about a time frame as to when you have to heat cure the finish.....only that you do have to follow the 3 steps as outlined.
I must add that as skeptical as I was about these so-called high heat paint finishes this stuff REALLY worked and didn't even discolor during a long dyno session. I used Duplicolor 500 deg. ceramic engine enamel on the block and the can says nothing about heat curing. I wouldn't worry about your parts but do as 69 says and see what happens. Here's a pic of my cyl. head after the dyno pulls.......Dave
10-09-2012 07:51 AM
@69 Widetrack - Sure will! Thanks again!
@327 Nut: That engine is sweeet! What were the 3 steps on the 2000 degree paint? Mine is rated for 1200 and it only mentions to wait at least an hour before heating but makes no mention of curing or curing temp, so I just assumed that it meant don't expose to a heat source, not that it needed to be heated. Thanks in advance!
10-09-2012 08:05 AM
I've used high temp paint on exhaust manifolds. I let them dry at shop temp until I'm ready to put them on. Once the engine runs for a while, the exhaust heat cures them and they look great. These rattle can manufacturers that make this stuff must think we all have big curing ovens in our shops.
I use regular automotive paint on engines and never have heat problems...burn-off or discoloration.
10-09-2012 08:07 AM
That includes intake manifolds and heads.
10-09-2012 09:53 AM
And the auto paint isn't even rated for high heat, correct? What brand high temp paint do you use?
10-09-2012 10:23 AM
Retro..... as you know preperation is everything, the cleaner the better. The directions were bake for 30 min. @ 250, then 400, then 600 with a 30 min. cooling period between each phase. Thats for the primer and then you do the same for the top coat, takes a while but obviuosly it worked. I have to build some 4 into 1 headers for this and I think I'm going to try the same finish on them.....can always blast it off and have them ceramic coated if it doesn't work. Also if the parts are on the car...like exhaust manif., again clean them up as good as possible ( I would remove them and sand/media blast all the rust off) then paint primer, allow to dry, run engine at idle for 10 min. allow 20 min cooling period, run engine at idle for 20 min. and allow another 20 min cooling period. Lastly is you drive veh. at normal speeds for 30 min. and allow 30 min to cool......Same with the top coat.