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Old 01-05-2012, 10:37 PM
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Heating, Bending, Polishing Stainless Steel

Has anyone ever heated a 3/4" polished stainless steel bar and bent it? Will it polish back to the shine it once had or will it be discolored, something like on chrome headers? Also for polishing, is it best to use the green rouge bar?

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Old 01-06-2012, 08:12 AM
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I dont know about the heat dis-color
but for polishing compound SS should be the black
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:15 AM
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More than likely the surface will get a bit rough and will require some kind of sanding from coarse to fine in stages.
Hopefully it won't need grinding as well.

I may also distort the shape a bit as if you cold bent it.

No matter what, there is always a way to bring it back.

Green bar is what we use.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 27Tall T
Has anyone ever heated a 3/4" polished stainless steel bar and bent it? Will it polish back to the shine it once had or will it be discolored, something like on chrome headers? Also for polishing, is it best to use the green rouge bar?
Heating a stainless bar to assist in the bending process will discolor the stainless to a yellow/gold color. This can be polished out to a chrome like appearance.

If heated at a very high temp the surface may get a rougher feel that will require some sanding before the polishing process. Overheating may cause surface cracks.

Chrome headers are usually triple plated (copper, nickel and then chrome). The copper plating is what causes the pipes to turn blue and the nickel will turn a yellow/gold. There are a few products to reduce the amount of visible bluing but the best way is to eliminate the copper plating from the process.

The best method to reduce the discoloring of exhaust is to set the timing and adjust the carb using an old set of headers. AFTER that is done, then install the chrome or stainless or ceramic coated exhaust. BEFORE firing up the engine with the new exhaust, thoroughly clean them to remove any oils or contaminants. This will prevent 'burning' of the oils on the surface of the exhaust that usually can not be successfully removed.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:52 AM
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is this for your headlight bar?
you can probobly just tweak it without too much worry
or are you thinking of making your own?
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:00 PM
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This is for the headlight bar. One side of it needs to be raised 3/16" so the mounting pad will match the other side. When the bar is placed on the bench the one side mounting pad sits up 3\16" as compared to the other side and the angle of the pad is off. When mounting onto the fender you can see the pad pulling away from the fender by the 3/16" (at the top). The bottom sits onto the fender but the top is what is off. I'm afraid to pull it down with the bolts as I make break the mounting pad. Maybe I'm being too critical but you would think that they would use a jig to make these dropped bars.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:02 PM
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I would figure out what it needs
Take it off the car
Wrap it in a towel and put it in the vise
And just start pulling until you can get it to lay flat
Or whatever you need it to do, to fit right
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:15 PM
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Can you post a pic of the whole thing w/o the buckets?
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:01 PM
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Sorry I can't post any pictures of the bar with the problem as I've just gone on holidays. However, this site will show the headlight bar with the bends..... < http://www.gearheadworld.com/store/1...ar-32-p41.aspx > The bend has to be opened slightly to bring the pad into alignment. This is the first bend next to the pad that bolts to the fender. I tried to open this bend in my 10 ton press and as you can see it is very difficult to hold and bend since the bend is approximately 3" from the pad. I did manage to put a lot of power into straightening the bend but the whole thing just shot out of the press like a bullet. Won't try that again.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:38 AM
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Take a block of wood and put a V groove into it and then set that in your press. If you only need to open it , this should do the trick to keep it from flying away.

If you want to bend it more you would need a block with a 5-6" cutout to hold the part over and then press down on the inside of the bend.

Tweeking it by bending it is much better than trying to heat it.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:01 AM
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When someone looks over the fence they see a different view then the person who is on that side of the fence. That sounds like a great idea. Thanks!
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Old 01-07-2012, 05:28 PM
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Didn't know I had them but here are the pics I took before I went on holidays. They show that both sides are different in height and also the mounting holes for the buckets run at two different angles although the buckets can accomodate that difference in angles. Hope I can get more feed back on this matter.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:06 PM
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From your other pics of the bucket almost touching the bar I would say the problem you have is where I drew the red arrow.
Opening up this bend will get the bucket some clearance at the other bend and the flange will drop to the same position as the other side.
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:09 PM
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You're right on the money for that bend, but then that changes the angle of the mounting pad and so now the next bend would have to be closest to the pad. This too would have to be opened, which is the biggest issue as the bar is shorter there as well as being a tapered thicker portion. Haven't figured out how to bend that cold using a press. That's why I asked about heating and then bending.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:13 AM
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From your photos, it appears the mounting plates are at different angles now.
Of coarse I can't be 100% sure as I only used a folded piece of paper to create a triangle and held it on each pic.

Are you saying they sit properly on the fenders as it is now?

Last edited by 123pugsy; 01-08-2012 at 06:30 AM.
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