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Old 08-27-2004, 08:52 AM
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Heavy Steel Rust

I found good information while searching 12 hours the Hotrodders Bulletin Board. I still have 2 questions.

I need to remove rust 1/16" thick from basement I-beams. I installed a sump pump so moisture is now under control.

I'm using an angle grinder with stones and wire wheels. After grinding, the steel has a rust film. I'm going to rent a 165 SCFM air compressor and I'm wondering if a Harbor Freight 20-lb sandblaster would be sufficent.

Second question is sealing the steel with a paint brush. Is 'Eastwood Oxisolv Rust Remover' the same as etching with phosphoric-acid? Eastwood suggests wipping Oxisolv with 'Eastwood Pre Painting Prep' is that the same as rinsing phosphoric-acid with water?

Then should I use 'Eastwood Metal Wash' followed by 'Eastwood Silver Rust Encapsulator' or should I use 'Eastwood Cold Galvanizing Compound'?

Are all of these steps necessary. PS, I didn't see any listing for Corroless on the Eastwood website.
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Old 08-27-2004, 09:43 AM
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Not sure what you are trying to accomplish. Just stop the rust or put something astetically pleasing on. But, why not use POR 15? It is an excellent product, you would not have to do anything regarding removing the rust already there as POR 15 is designed to be applied right over rust. I personally haven't done so but I think there are some color topcoats that can be applied as well.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:48 AM
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If you go with the POR 15 all you need is a heavy chipping hammer to bust up and remove the heavy rust. Get the beam reasonably clean and coat with POR 15. It reacts to moisture so it will be in its ideal environment. How much area are we talking? (approx sq/ft). With the 20 lb blaster, you will find yourself filling the hopper more than removing rust. Plus Its a nasty clean up. With sand EVERYWHERE!!!

I was in on the restoration of the P.T. Barnum (circus) house in Holly village. It took us days to clean up sand from a relatively short blasting job in the basement.
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Old 08-27-2004, 11:09 AM
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I don't care what the beams look like aesthetically, just so the rust stops. After reading Hotrodders rust posts, I found a mixed response of ideas. I chose Eastwood because Troy said he used it before. Also BarryK and MARTINSR said POR15 was designed for old steel lawn chairs and contains tree resin. I wanted to stop further rust with a chemical sealer. MARTINSR said for a car frame use epoxy primer and urethane paint top coat.

For maximum rust prevention, should I use a Pre Painting Prep, followed by an epoxy primer, followed by a urethane paint top-coat? Can epoxy primer and urethane paint be applied with a brush without an isocyanates respirator?

The I-beam is 8" x 4" x 50'. Will I need more than 300-lbs of 60-grit commercial grade sand? Everything is out of the basement so I don't care about the mess. A 20-lb hopper doesn't appear to be adequite?
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Old 08-27-2004, 11:37 AM
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Since your only talking an 8" wide flange beam I'm guessing you have 50' total to do, not one beam 50' long. Depending on the weight of the beam, (and if the flange is 4" wide it can't be more than a W8 x 10, W8 x 13, or a W8 x 15. Anything heavier in an 8" wide flange would have a wider flange than 4") you might just want to buy new beams.

A W8 x 10 wide flange beam at current steel prices of around $0.49/lb. (10lb x 50' x .49 = $245.00)a W10 x 15 would be (15lb x 50' x .49 = $367.50) So, to buy new beams your talking about a minimum of $245 and a maximum of $367.) I would just buy some new beams. All the trouble your going to would most likely cost as much or more if you have to buy equipment and coatings.

I don't know what your beams look like but a surface coat of rust isn't going to hurt their properties.
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Old 08-27-2004, 02:08 PM
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Ground...anyone of the Phosphate conversion type products are good at getting what you can't reach. Another product I've had good results with is "Extend". Converts rust to a "rust barrier". A nice side effect is it turns a nice uniform black during the process.
Available at hardware and home depot type places.

Good luck!
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Old 08-27-2004, 04:59 PM
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I have left POR 15 painted pieces outside in Michigan weather for years and had no ill effect on it and no new rust.
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Old 08-27-2004, 07:09 PM
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ground

From my understanding of the Eastwood products, you are planning on way more work than you have to do. To use the Rust encapsulator, you do not have to have rust-free metal. The instructions on the product say to remove loose particles. It stabilizes the remainder of the rust and seals the metal. The Pre Painting Prep is pretty much a wax and grease remover. That probably wouldn't be a big issue in the basement.

I'd just wire brush very good, and use the Rust encapsulator. You can also top coat it with just about anything.
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Old 08-29-2004, 01:27 PM
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Thanks for the replys. A consensus of opinion tells me I don't need to sandblast. That will save me about $200.

I'm using a wire brush on an angle grinder. Then I'll use a pre painting prep. Followed by a rust encapsulator. Thanks again.
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